2016 POTD Thread Archive

So I need a 13/16 transfer punch at work tomorrow but my set stops at 1/2. The largest piece of drill rod I have is 3/4.
So what do I do. I made the point on a piece of 3/8 drill rod.
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Then I drilled out the end of a piece of 1" hot rolled and turned it to shape.
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I knurled the end.20160403_195950.jpg
Then I put it together with some super glue
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Should do the trick. Yes I did harden and temper back the O1 drill rod.

Mark
 
Stripped down a fairbanks morse zd 2 hp engine. I have not decided yet if I grind rivets for brass plate. Will make it easier to paint engine and polish brass. I will make a wooden tank to electrolysis rust removal.
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Empty inside. Not sure how electrolysis will affect the polished crank and cam shafts.
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Then theres the grand canyon of a crack that I got b pressure welder to braise that failed. I will try repair myself.
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This engine has great potential. It would blow a plastic cap out of the exaust side spinning engine by hand. I freed up the stuck rings. Will remove them to clean the grove better. So much rust. More inside crank case than on outside.
Jack

Sent from my SGH-I337M using Tapatalk

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A little side job. Enlarging the bore on 4 aluminum rims. Using the rotary table. My boring head wasn't big enough.
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Not leaving much meat between the bore and the stud holes....
pete

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Good weekend, got to tour Ethos Energy Rotor shop in Farmington NM Saturday. They service power plants, and were working on steam valves at the time. Huge precision lathes, presses and balancing equipment. 100 ton crane in the overhead. Met the Plant Manager and several machinists all were friendly and willing to discuss their work. My whole shop would fit in one of their heat treating rooms.

Warm enough Sunday to work in my shop, currently making some "Z" hold down clamps for the rotary table. Started with a rusty piece of 1" square steel, used the bandsaw to cut to rough shape, then the drill press and mill to put in 3/8" slots for the hold down bolts. Next step is to try and get sawn parts square and hopefully the same thickness. The "Z" clamps will let me cut the outside diameter of the replacement bottom cap of a cooling pump I am trying to rebuild.
Have a good day!
Ray
 
Today did not start out too well. I went to do some minor milling on my donor lathe bed for my extension. Low and behold, after 6 years of milling with my drill press, the bearings are starting to go in the spindle. Considering this drill press has the original 20yr old bearings I think a rebuild is in order before I start milling stuff again. So the lathe extension will have to wait a bit.
 
I haven't had anything to share for a while (trip to the beach with the wife) but I got some progress on the long list of unfinished projects. Another paint job, this time on a grinder stand for my Baldor 7" grinder. Not shown was two applications of plastic filler to smooth out the welds and give it the "cast" appearance.

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Stripped down a fairbanks morse zd 2 hp engine. I have not decided yet if I grind rivets for brass plate. Will make it easier to paint engine and polish brass. I will make a wooden tank to electrolysis rust removal.
Empty inside. Not sure how electrolysis will affect the polished crank and cam shafts.
Then theres the grand canyon of a crack that I got b pressure welder to braise that failed. I will try repair myself.
This engine has great potential. It would blow a plastic cap out of the exaust side spinning engine by hand. I freed up the stuck rings. Will remove them to clean the grove better. So much rust. More inside crank case than on outside.
Jack

Sent from my SGH-I337M using Tapatalk



Electrolysis works best line of sight to the electrode. For internal cleaning I've had the best luck with a mix of 1 part molasses to 10 parts water. Its slow though. The block would need to soak submerged in the solution for 2 to 3 weeks. It has no effect on bare metal, only effects oxides. It leaves a black coating that will wash off with the pressure washer or a light wipe with a Scotch Brite pad. Stir the solution every few days.

Greg
 
For internal rust removal I submerge the part in Evaporust and shake a bit to remove any trapped air. I have even plugged ends of passages and then filled the passage.
 
Good weekend, got to tour Ethos Energy Rotor shop in Farmington NM Saturday. They service power plants, and were working on steam valves at the time. Huge precision lathes, presses and balancing equipment. 100 ton crane in the overhead. Met the Plant Manager and several machinists all were friendly and willing to discuss their work. My whole shop would fit in one of their heat treating rooms.

Warm enough Sunday to work in my shop, currently making some "Z" hold down clamps for the rotary table. Started with a rusty piece of 1" square steel, used the bandsaw to cut to rough shape, then the drill press and mill to put in 3/8" slots for the hold down bolts. Next step is to try and get sawn parts square and hopefully the same thickness. The "Z" clamps will let me cut the outside diameter of the replacement bottom cap of a cooling pump I am trying to rebuild.
Have a good day!
Ray

Funny that you mentioned Ethos Energy. I worked for TurboCare which was one of the two companies that merged to form Ethos. Yes indeed they have huge equipment to handle large steam and gas turbine rotors and generator fields. Working for TurboCare was the best job I had mainly because of the people. Glad you enjoyed your visit.

Tom S.
 
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