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2015 POTD Thread Archive
- Thread starter jumps4
- Start date
- Joined
- Feb 7, 2013
- Messages
- 2,534
Resurrected an OLD motor and made ?
Well, I've been working on this project for a few days now. A friend gave me
an old electric motor which I didn't end up using for anything. It's been laying
around in the shop for months. It is a Brushed AC 110-220v motor with brass
bushings, the kind with a ring on the shaft dipping into the oil reservoir and
some real brass Gits oilers. It was really dirty, that took a day to get it
cleaned up. Then I noticed the armature had been rubbing on the field
assembly, a sure clue that the bearings might be worn. The motor shaft side
was pretty loose so I removed it from the case and squeezed it a bit in my 4 jaw
lathe chuck. Not much play now. After cleaning up the brushes and armature,
it ran just fine. Well it ran fine but the output shaft was out of true by 20 thousandths
or so. A few good hits with a big hammer and it was straight enough to be
undetectable. Also a 12 inch wire wheel was given me by a friend so made an
arbor for that. As luck would have it I found a truck axle shaft and a matching
rim so made a base using that. The hard part was cutting off the axle. It was
very hard material! The HSS cutoff just made a few turns and was dull. On to
the carbide cutter... not much luck there either, it cut hair fine blue in color chips
and immediately the leading edge of the cutter gave way. I had to grind it in half
with my angle grinder. Finally it all came together with a bit of band saw work
and welding. I think I will put this outfit in an outbuilding and use it there
since it is a messy tool leaving rust residue all over the place. I think some heavy
gloves will be in order and maybe some rocks piled into the wheel rim for stability.
I still have to clean up and paint the stand but for the most part it's complete.
Well, I've been working on this project for a few days now. A friend gave me
an old electric motor which I didn't end up using for anything. It's been laying
around in the shop for months. It is a Brushed AC 110-220v motor with brass
bushings, the kind with a ring on the shaft dipping into the oil reservoir and
some real brass Gits oilers. It was really dirty, that took a day to get it
cleaned up. Then I noticed the armature had been rubbing on the field
assembly, a sure clue that the bearings might be worn. The motor shaft side
was pretty loose so I removed it from the case and squeezed it a bit in my 4 jaw
lathe chuck. Not much play now. After cleaning up the brushes and armature,
it ran just fine. Well it ran fine but the output shaft was out of true by 20 thousandths
or so. A few good hits with a big hammer and it was straight enough to be
undetectable. Also a 12 inch wire wheel was given me by a friend so made an
arbor for that. As luck would have it I found a truck axle shaft and a matching
rim so made a base using that. The hard part was cutting off the axle. It was
very hard material! The HSS cutoff just made a few turns and was dull. On to
the carbide cutter... not much luck there either, it cut hair fine blue in color chips
and immediately the leading edge of the cutter gave way. I had to grind it in half
with my angle grinder. Finally it all came together with a bit of band saw work
and welding. I think I will put this outfit in an outbuilding and use it there
since it is a messy tool leaving rust residue all over the place. I think some heavy
gloves will be in order and maybe some rocks piled into the wheel rim for stability.
I still have to clean up and paint the stand but for the most part it's complete.
- Joined
- Oct 5, 2010
- Messages
- 1,050
Hey Cathead,
Nice work on that motor, but you really ought to get rid of that wire wheel. You need to find a twisted wire wheel to replace it. Any wire wheel is dangerous, as when the wires break, they come off at tremendous speed. (Think sharp pointed bullets) not only are they dangerous for the eyes, but other parts of the body. Since the wheel has no guard, those projectiles are going 360 degrees. I truly hope you are wearing goggles and protective clothing when you run that thing. The twisted wire will not stop the fragment, but it will reduce them. Please be very careful of that device.
Randy
Nice work on that motor, but you really ought to get rid of that wire wheel. You need to find a twisted wire wheel to replace it. Any wire wheel is dangerous, as when the wires break, they come off at tremendous speed. (Think sharp pointed bullets) not only are they dangerous for the eyes, but other parts of the body. Since the wheel has no guard, those projectiles are going 360 degrees. I truly hope you are wearing goggles and protective clothing when you run that thing. The twisted wire will not stop the fragment, but it will reduce them. Please be very careful of that device.
Randy
Randy - with twist knot brushes, i find you don't have the save versatility as you do with the standard wires. I use a wire wheel to clean up bolt threads, not sure how well a twist knot one would do that.
Yes, wires do break off and fly out at high speed. Eyes are always a must when using one or any grinding tool. I find that they only just pierce the skin, never really deep.
Yes, wires do break off and fly out at high speed. Eyes are always a must when using one or any grinding tool. I find that they only just pierce the skin, never really deep.
- Joined
- Jun 14, 2014
- Messages
- 410
Twist knot or braided wire wheels are more aggressive and seem to last longer than their straight wire counterparts. I use them on my grinder and on my air sander (in cup wheel form). They make short work of the job.
Shrapnel is a normal danger of using a wire wheel. The best way to reduce the danger is to wear safety goggles along with a full face shield, buy only high quality wire wheels, and wear protective clothing so you're picking more wires out of your clothes instead of your skin.
Happy Trails!
- Joined
- Jun 22, 2012
- Messages
- 1,552
The mighty wire wheel is my friend, shrapnel and all!
Made a manifold to distribute Argon gas to wine kegs in our barrel room and thence to the tap heads in the tasting room. The Argon protects the wine from oxygen and drives the wine to the tap heads.
Hardest part was drilling the hole through the brass block. I used the mill and worked up very slowly from both ends. Not perfect but it doesn't have to be since it is gas at only 3-7psi.
I now have capacity to run six separate kegs. Our plan is to have all of our wines available in bottle and in growlers.
Hardest part was drilling the hole through the brass block. I used the mill and worked up very slowly from both ends. Not perfect but it doesn't have to be since it is gas at only 3-7psi.
I now have capacity to run six separate kegs. Our plan is to have all of our wines available in bottle and in growlers.
- Joined
- Sep 3, 2012
- Messages
- 311
Replaced the quill operating handle on my Bridgeport with a big old handwheel off a post drill I restored some time ago. Nice thing about it is that it is so heavy it almost balances the quill without that fussy clockspring.
The adapter was drilled and turned out of a piece of 1.125 HRS scrap.
The adapter was drilled and turned out of a piece of 1.125 HRS scrap.
- Joined
- Feb 7, 2013
- Messages
- 2,534
I can see where it might be handy at times. My mill has one handle adjustable
for a good pull but have not made a 3 way handle like a drill press has because I thought it might be in the way occasionally. Time will tell how well you like it.
Also it would depend somewhat on how the mill is used. Nice job on the arbor.
for a good pull but have not made a 3 way handle like a drill press has because I thought it might be in the way occasionally. Time will tell how well you like it.
Also it would depend somewhat on how the mill is used. Nice job on the arbor.