1966 Brown & Sharpe 618 Micromaster spindle repair (pic heavy)

[Richard King 2]

Was there 2 back (thick end) to back on one end? I see on the photo 1 the little dot on the bottom is the TIR of that race. I hope you marked it, where it came off. If not set the spindle on a v block and find the TIR of the spindle and mount the bearing 180 degree's to it. They off set each other...or mount the new bearing I mean. My associate is my best friend. He was my foreman - Craig Luarich of Shop Services in Buhl, MN

 

[Janderso]

Was there 2 back (thick end) to back on one end? I see on the photo 1 the little dot on the bottom is the TIR of that race. I hope you marked it, where it came off. If not set the spindle on a v block and find the TIR of the spindle and mount the bearing 180 degree's to it. They off set each other...or mount the new bearing I mean. My associate is my best friend. He was my foreman - Craig Luarich of Shop Services in Buhl, MN

Oops.
I’m not sure what you are telling me.
I plan on calling Craig later today. I’ll ask him about it.

 

[Richard King 2]

I am writing this for all. the members who may not know about Precision bearings This shows (SKF link below) what I mean. Your bearings are angular contact ball bearings. The outermost ring of the bearing is called the outer race (fits into the housing_ and the inner ring that slides onto the spindle in called the Inner Race. The outer race has one side (end) that is wider and we call that side "Back" and the thin end of the otter race is called the "Face". In the 1st picture you show of your bearing is the Back side. The info engraved in the bearing says 7. in bearing speak that means precision. There is a 9 too, but those are more accurate and $$ If you look closely at picture 1 on the inner race at about the 6 o-clock position there is a tiny dot engraved into the bearing and that is the TIR or "total indicator run-out" of that inner race. When the factory made the bearing they measured with a electronic indicator .00002" accuracy and they mark the bearing with the dot.

When Brown & Sharpe made the spindle shaft and before putting on the bearings, the used a machine called a centering machine which looks like a lathe bed with 2 tailstocks. They put the spindle in the 2 centers and used a .00002" indicator and they measured where the bearings fit the spindle for the most TIR of the spindles shaft bearing mount surface and marked it. Then the mounted the dot on the bearing - 180 degrees from the mark on he spindle. This counters the run out of the 2 parts. If you didn't watch where the Dot came off the spindle and you don't have a centering machine, you can lay the spindle down on a fixed (won't move) V block and turn the spindle, measuring with the most accurate indicator you have. and do what I wrote above.

SKF

www.skf.com

 

[Richard King 2]

That's why I said to take pictures or make a sketch so you could line up the new bearing dot where the old bearing dot was. Also I suspect the bearings are mounted back to back configuration on opposite sides of the spindle shaft to get good thrust.

 

[Janderso]

That's why I said to take pictures or make a sketch so you could line up the new bearing dot where the old bearing dot was. Also I suspect the bearings are mounted back to back configuration on opposite sides of the spindle shaft to get good thrust.

Hopefully the new bearings will show which side goes in toward the other bearing. The old ones have ""Thrust Here" on the outer race.
These bearings were also so packed with grease it was oozing out both sides.
After talking to Richard's buddy, he said, when you get the new bearings, clean the factory thin oil by using brake cleaner, do not spin the bearings!!, blow out with air then grease with Kluber grease.
Put a small amount of grease on each ball, about the size of a sewing pin ball or a bit larger. Excessive grease will cause heat.

The price of the bearings are $150 to $685 each, depending on your source. I was assuming $500 and up each. And yes, they are precision ABEC-7 bearings.
SKF is the manufacturer. I guess they bought out MRC.
FYI

(Edit- I was misquoted from one source. It was $685 each, not $150. I ordered a set for $210 each.

This is the grease. Richard gave me an Amazon link for it.

ISOFLEX TOPAS NB 52

ISOFLEX TOPAS NB 52 and ISOFLEX TOPAS NB 152 are rolling and plain bearing greases based on a synthetic hydrocarbon oil and a barium complex soap. The special barium-soap thickener used in the ISOFLEX TOPAS NB 52 and 152 greases offers good load-carrying capacity as well as resistance to water...

www.klueber.com

 

[Richard King 2]

Look at page G 3 - I found a manual that shows the headstock gib adjusters. They call them a gib, but it's not the typical tapered gin.

http://vintagemachinery.org/pubs/2185/23934.pdf

 

[Janderso]

Look at page G 3 - I found a manual that shows the headstock gib adjusters. They call them a gib, but it's not the typical tapered gin.

http://vintagemachinery.org/pubs/2185/23934.pdf

I was wondering how they were adjusted. That’s what thise plugs are for!!
I can verify they are beautifully ground. The gibs that is.
Before I reinstall the spindle, I’ll source the adjusters to see if I can fabricate a locking device to facilitate adjustment per manual.
I’m not looking forward to reassembling the accordion panels on the headstock. That should be interesting. I think I’ll have more hands available for that operation.
I replaced the upright felts while I was at it.

 

[Janderso]

I cleaned up the old spindle bearings. They don’t look bad at least at first.
I’m not sure what the tolerances are for the rollers. I measured out of round by .0008”.
I also noticed the high polish on the bearing surfaces is compromised a bit.

 

[Janderso]

Also I suspect the bearings are mounted back to back configuration on opposite sides of the spindle shaft to get good thrust.

Correct.

 

[Janderso]

Richard,
Thank you for your guidance with this endeavor.
I was prepared to send this spindle off to a rebuilder and I was also willing to spend $3,500.
As it stands, I have consulted with Richard King, he has hooked me up with one of his industry contacts.
Through the process, I was able to gain the confidence to rebuild this spindle myself, in addition, I was able to acquire the correct bearings through a bearing supplier mentioned by Richard's contact.
I probably saved $3,000.

Thanks again Mr. King!!!!