12 volt outlets

If you are insisting on using line power type devices then twist lock may do.

But...

There are many different styles.

Simple units. like 5-15, 20 and 30 all look came but have different diameters and thickness of interface.

The 4 conductor ones get crazy.

We had some for use with a RPC, we were going to make some cords and mount some outlets.

But they all would no go together.

Some have ground tang out while others in.

Then different sized tangs too.

It seems there are different standards so different plugs.

That would allow unique interface ad allow for multiple busses as well.

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aliva said:
Well if no one likes my idea of using a stand receptacle and plug, go to twist lock, be sure that's the only motor you use a twist lock on. As far as inspectors go, ask your self this, are you going to call an inspector to come and check things out, inspectors don't normally make unannounced inspections, at least not here were I live. Here were I am and electrical inspector can't just walk in and do an inspection without cause, only a fire marshal has that authority, and then he may call in an electrical inspector if he deems it necessary.
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The reason I do things to code isn’t for the building inspector, it’s for the fire investigator if I were unfortunate enough to have a loss. Even if my non-code wiring wasn’t the cause you can be darn sure the insurance company would use it to get out of paying.

For high amperage connections Andersons get my vote, we use them at work and I’ve seen how much current it takes to melt one.

XT60’s would be second, with XLR or banana coming in third.

All of these are designed for relatively high current DC applications and cannot be confused with AC mains plugs. Plus they’re cheap.

John
 
RJSakowski said:
The danger wouldn't be plugging a 120 volt appliance into 12 volts d.c. The voltage would be too low to present a problem. The danger comes from plugging a a 12 volt d.c. device into 120 volts a.c. More than likely it would destroy the device and pop the breaker. When dealing with high voltages and currents, it is best practice to make the setup as foolproof as possible.
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I agree there is more potential harm that way but less likely IMHO.
 
matthewsx said:
XT60’s would be second, with XLR or banana coming in third.
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I agree with you about being up to code before the insurance company or fire investigator is in the position to sort it out for you.

I forgot about the XT series connectors! They are dirt cheap, and handle 30-60-90-120 amps in their size range. I use them on my toy cars pulling 4 kilowatts peak out of 25 volts, with sustained runs at 100 amps. They have limitations beyond that, but there are other high amperage DC bullet type connectors in molded shells out there. Those get pricey, but XT connectors are cheap and widely available. Good thought, John!

The orange connectors are a derivation of the XT series. XT comes in panel mount, inline, etc., for options.

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I agree with RJSakowski. I'd go even further ... I think the power supply should be picked up and moved to the device being powered. 12V switching power supplies are light weight and not too expensive. Also, if you do a permanent installation (e.g. 12V sockets attached to the walls) then NEC code and inspection come into play. If you use a portable power supply you avoid the code and inspection issue.

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As someone who once did record switch power plant stuff...

DC voltage drop is a concern.

Wire size is critical, lower voltage requires larger wire.

Original commercial power was DC until Tesla, but that is another story.

Feedback DC supplies are common, these have feedback connections so output is 4 wires.

2 each for load and feedback.

They are parallel to the load, but the feedback allows the power supply to deliver rated voltage to the load, at the load by adjusting the voltage by the feedback.

If you plan on powering say 1 hp of load at 12 volts is somewhere around 60 amps.

1/2 HP is 30.

So go with 1/2 for arguments sake.

Suggested wire size per code is number 10.

Too lazy to look up voltage drop, but wire length matters with lower voltage as a small difference in available voltage makes huge difference in required wire size.

Using line voltage with portable power supplies allows smaller wires and standardized connectors.

DC distribution done PROPERLY required a distribution panel with DC rated breakers for the loads.

Fuses work, but breakers better.

I see the want for doing this and on the surface sounds like good idea.

However, if the loads are more than minimal, it cost to build it to where it will work properly will be excessive.

Not done properly will be a disappointment.

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George Westinghouse was right. Higher voltage is the better way to distribute electrical power.
 
When I was a heavy eqip mechanic, We used this plug on Belly Dumps. It's a 2 pole plug for 12vdc. there are male and female. I am sure if you checked ebay regularly you could find them cheaper, Or check your local "Truck Supply"

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Velvac Dual Pole Receptacle, 200A 593121 | Zoro

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Use could cheap out and use the 120V plugs that @aliva suggested, just use the European version. Should be no more expensive on BangGood.
 
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