12 volt outlets

[RJSakowski]

Low voltage high current connectors tend to be expensive. Can't beat aliva's idea for cost- just don't let an inspector see it
-M

I wouldn't go that route. The possibility of someone plugging into a 110 volt socket with potentially serious consequences is too great.

There are low cost solutions out there. If you want to go the mains connector route, choose an offshore standard like the Schuko so there is no danger of accidentally plugging into the wrong socket.

Schuko - Wikipedia

en.wikipedia.org

 

[RJSakowski]

The Molex connectors are great. I use them extensively. But they are not intended for frequent connect/disconnect applications.

 

[markba633csi]

These GX20-2L are cheap and rated 10 amps- only problem is the 3 week wait from China- might be a US vendor on Ebay

https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256803013756106.html?spm=a2g0o.productlist.main.1.5a307xHH7xHHGu&algo_pvid=a0cc9690-0613-42b2-bc99-bb941c550bb1&algo_exp_id=a0cc9690-0613-42b2-bc99-bb941c550bb1-0&pdp_ext_f=%7B%22sku_id%22%3A%2212000024629442464%22%7D&pdp_npi=2%40dis%21USD%212.7%211.59%21%21%21%21%21%4021021d7b16745143209581522d0688%2112000024629442464%21sea&curPageLogUid=TwG5ICiqc0MJ

 

[murraym]

McMaster Carr is expensive but i always find good ideas there. They have some 12v plug ideas.

 

[pontiac428]

Music plugs like Speakon loudspeaker cables or mic plugs can handle a pretty good current and are priced okay. That's what I chose for largish stepper drives at one point. CB radio mic plugs come in two or four prong non-shorting arrangements and are cheap (cheep!) and handle some current but are not very tight compared to more expensive stuff. Banana plugs are überduber cheap, can handle tons of amps from available sizes, and would be completely universal- plug in black, plug in red, use appliance. Bigger appliance? Bigger lead wire. That's what I would go with. You can get banana plugs in ganged pairs with set size and spacing so they work like plugs, but you still have the versatility of plugging individual leads in, too.

 

[tq60]

We agree with the Anderson connectors, somewhat of a standard now.

Rated size by amps.

Forklift uses 350 Amp, jumper cables usually 150 size.

They are great as both sides of the connection are the same, and Amazon has good price on bulk.

We use them for chargers and other things.

Have adaptors with a different size on each end for assorted things.

We built this unit for general battery charger measurement.

It has a shunt type ammeter and voltmeter with a power adapter inside, the voltmeter only works if it's supply is less than 30 volts but will measure 100.

The Andersons allow it to be inserted between 2 things, can measure charging current or flip it over and measure load.

They may make panel mount but easy to just cut a hole in panel and use an angle to attach.

Sent from my SM-G781V using Tapatalk

 

[Eddyde]

A regular 120V house receptacle and cord plug are polarized so you can only plug it in one way, one blades wider than the other. Just mark the receptacle 12v or paint it a specific colour.

I don't think this is a safe Idea. Just because you label or color code a standard receptacle doesn't mean someone else will read or understand it and might plug a 120v AC device into it, possibly destroying it or causing a fire, etc. We are not going to be around forever, leaving potentially dangerous legacy item around is irresponsible IMHO.
Besides there are plenty of other disconnect means available, no need to create future problems.

 

[paradox_pete]

I don't think an inspector would really care bout 12V Again paint it pink or something to differentiate it from 120V

I'm pretty sure the electrical code (in the states, at least) does have something to say about low voltage systems. In particular I'm pretty sure it is unacceptable for 120v and low voltage wiring to occupy the same junction boxes etc. I would recommend checking into this before installing anything. It's much easier to do it right / legally the first time.... Also, 25 amps is more than enough to start a fire....

-Pete

 

[RJSakowski]

I don't think this is a safe Idea. Just because you label or color code a standard receptacle doesn't mean someone else will read or understand it and might plug a 120v AC device into it, possibly destroying it or causing a fire, etc. We are not going to be around forever, leaving potentially dangerous legacy item around is irresponsible IMHO.
Besides there are plenty of other disconnect means available, no need to create future problems.

The danger wouldn't be plugging a 120 volt appliance into 12 volts d.c. The voltage would be too low to present a problem. The danger comes from plugging a a 12 volt d.c. device into 120 volts a.c. More than likely it would destroy the device and pop the breaker. When dealing with high voltages and currents, it is best practice to make the setup as foolproof as possible.

Rather than permanently wiring a building for 12 volt d.c., I would be inclined to make up an extension cord to reach possible use points. A 15 to 20 ft. cable would most likely suffice if the power supply is strategically located. Barring that, make the power supply portable and plug it into a handy 120 volt outlet.

I have several low voltage systems in our house to run the low voltage LED lighting. One is a 30 volt bus running from a 200 watt switching power supply. The connectors that I used are the Molex connectors shown in post #9 above. There are two 12 volt power supplies which provide for overhead LED lighting and outside LED lighting. I used the Molex connectors for those as well but the connectors are configured differently so they can't be inadvertently interchanged.

I also have a couple of battery chargers that I have made up for charging my marine batteries. I used 40 amp switching power supplies and they are buil5t into metal tool boxes and are convenient to use even out on the dock and in wet weather. A 25 amp switching power supply is compact and light weight and wouldn't be much less convenient than the ubiquitous wall wart.

 

[aliva]

Well if no one likes my idea of using a stand receptacle and plug, go to twist lock, be sure that's the only motor you use a twist lock on. As far as inspectors go, ask your self this, are you going to call an inspector to come and check things out, inspectors don't normally make unannounced inspections, at least not here were I live. Here were I am and electrical inspector can't just walk in and do an inspection without cause, only a fire marshal has that authority, and then he may call in an electrical inspector if he deems it necessary.