Your ideas for a shop made O/A hand truck?

Not only dangerous, but being in a welding environment it would be filthy as soon as you started grinding, sanding, etc.. I used a hightemp, ceramic based engine clear-coat over a diluted gun bluing finish on my recent workbench project, and it seems like it will hold up well. Mike

I would be interested to know the brand of gun bluing finish, how much you dilute it, & may I assume that the aforementioned clear-coat is rattle can?
 
Regarding metering the joints ..

Personal choice, material allows for easier full penetration but now more filler needed.

With thin material this may not be needed.

This is why I suggested practice.

You have been doing so for other process, lesson learned here applies there.

Full thickness is also easier to clamp.

C-Clamp across the joint holds in perfect alignment.

Do not get in a hurry as it can warp if you try to complete a joint in one pass.

Sent from my SM-G781V using Tapatalk

I really need to buy some C-clamps large enough for this task. I have none now.

My last gas welding project was converting a bed to a bench: 100+ year old mild steel that was 5-15% corroded, .050”-ish wall round tubing painted with (probably) lead-based white paint. What a pleasure it will be for me to weld on clean new 3/32” steel!

Thanks for reminding me to practice right before the project. I can practice butt & fillet welds on the leftover square tubing, & then seeing how penetration was achieved on these practice welds.
 
Last edited:
I realized that I already have bicycle tires & tubes here. The tires are 26” diameter & 5.25” wide knobbies. Obviously, I will use these since they are already here & paid for.

Now I just need 80mm rims. One idea is to buy rims with cutouts in them, & use 1 green & 1 red rim strip since it is an O/A cart.

Like this:

D94E592B-9158-4CCC-83F9-53647966C5FF.jpeg

If there is a concern about spatter getting on there & burning the tube, one can use colored tape instead of a proper rim strip. I’m sure they make colored, high temp tape. Does anybody have a safety concern about using a rim strip? They are thin but tough. They also happen to be very inexpensive.
 
Last edited:
On second thought, it is better to have aluminum there than a rim strip. I will just use solid aluminum rims.
 
I used Birchwood Casey Super Blue. I got the large 32oz bottle because I plan on using it on other large projects, but it goes a long way so you might want a smaller bottle. How much you dilute it depends on the look you want. I would use it straight on a test piece, and dilute to taste. You want to get rid of all the mill scale first, and neutralize after application. The clear is made by Dupli-Color, and is rattle can. Mike

I would be interested to know the brand of gun bluing finish, how much you dilute it, & may I assume that the aforementioned clear-coat is rattle can?


IMG_20221112_114903696_HDR.jpg
 
You only need a c clamp big enough to clamp the sides of the tube together,

Imagine the line of the interface between the 2 tubes.

Place c clamp so the line splits the faces of the clamp.

For clamping the parts together get some BAR clamps.

These are inexpensive and in assorted lengths.

Sent from my SM-G781V using Tapatalk
 
I bought solid (i.e. flat proof) tires. I chose red tires to remind myself to work safely. They had a 56% off sale so it was $83.98 for both tires including tax + shipping. I have installed these on a rim; it is frustrating & time consuming.

FC03C0D8-B977-4BCC-B749-ACE51D82C835.png

 
I also bought red rims. I have to wait until I have rim + hub in hand before I take measurements to determine the spoke length.

With the fighter jet configuration of the cylinders & the red tires, this cart is going to look ridiculous.
 
Back
Top