- Joined
- Jan 20, 2016
- Messages
- 176
if both pins, or one of the pins are broken, it won't drive in that speed at all, block or no block. That block was probably added due to it slipping out of high speed during a cut due to vibration, and stopped it from happening. If that block is just standard hem-fir type soft wood, I would just break it to get it out of the way (easy to glue it back together or remake if you want it later).
I also had a bit of difficulty getting the knurled knob off of mine while everything was still assembled. It is a nice tight slip fit with only the set screw holding it on. If folks have removed and installed the set screw in many positions, the set screw bumps on the shaft may be what is now holding the knob on tightly (they may have tapped it on with a hammer). I kept soaking it with my favorite lube, as pretty difficult to get from behind and try to tap it off. Yours with the block on may be worse for access. I eventually got mine off without any tools, but was a struggle. I was ready to try a 3 jaw puller when it finally came off. I almost think the PO used something like lock-tite on it (not necessary).
Before I put the knob back on, I filed the shaft smooth for a nice fit for the knob. I slid it in place without the set screw, marked the set screw location with a sharpie, removed the knob, then filed a small flat onto the shaft where the mark was. Hopefully, next time the knob needs to be removed it will come right off.
A lot of these saws seem to have the shaft with the knob vibrate back and forth during cutting so it jumps out of gear. I didn't have any trouble with that initially, but had not used it for more than 10-20 minutes at a pop in either range. I just finished building a lay flat (for storage) firepit for the wife out of 1/8 HRS plate (assembles with no tools in less than a minute). Between the 1/8 masonite prototype and the metal version, it required about 3 hours of bandsaw work with my 32 tooth blade. Mine did not slip out of high range, but it did slip out of low range 3-4 times. Sounds like the PO added the block to yours to try stop it from vibrating out of high range as they only cut wood with it.
I also had a bit of difficulty getting the knurled knob off of mine while everything was still assembled. It is a nice tight slip fit with only the set screw holding it on. If folks have removed and installed the set screw in many positions, the set screw bumps on the shaft may be what is now holding the knob on tightly (they may have tapped it on with a hammer). I kept soaking it with my favorite lube, as pretty difficult to get from behind and try to tap it off. Yours with the block on may be worse for access. I eventually got mine off without any tools, but was a struggle. I was ready to try a 3 jaw puller when it finally came off. I almost think the PO used something like lock-tite on it (not necessary).
Before I put the knob back on, I filed the shaft smooth for a nice fit for the knob. I slid it in place without the set screw, marked the set screw location with a sharpie, removed the knob, then filed a small flat onto the shaft where the mark was. Hopefully, next time the knob needs to be removed it will come right off.
A lot of these saws seem to have the shaft with the knob vibrate back and forth during cutting so it jumps out of gear. I didn't have any trouble with that initially, but had not used it for more than 10-20 minutes at a pop in either range. I just finished building a lay flat (for storage) firepit for the wife out of 1/8 HRS plate (assembles with no tools in less than a minute). Between the 1/8 masonite prototype and the metal version, it required about 3 hours of bandsaw work with my 32 tooth blade. Mine did not slip out of high range, but it did slip out of low range 3-4 times. Sounds like the PO added the block to yours to try stop it from vibrating out of high range as they only cut wood with it.