Yet another Rockwell/Delta metal/wood bandsaw restore

[Janderso]

Fremont Industrial has a set of 2 belts with part number 49-111 for the Delta band saw.
What he heck would we do with 2 belts of the same size?

Delta Rockwell 49-111 5140051-35 set of 2 v-belts

Delta Rockwell 49-111 v belt

www.fremontindustrialsupply.com

 

[CluelessNewB]

Fremont Industrial has a set of 2 belts with part number 49-111 for the Delta band saw.
What he heck would we do with 2 belts of the same size?

Delta Rockwell 49-111 5140051-35 set of 2 v-belts

Delta Rockwell 49-111 v belt

www.fremontindustrialsupply.com

They are two different sizes according to the description, 41" & 59":

"Aftermarket replacement for Delta Rockwell 49-111 V-Belt. One each 1/2" wide, 41" outside length and one 1/2" x 59" outside length. Set of 2 belts Also known as part number 5140051-35"

 

[Janderso]

They are two different sizes according to the description, 41" & 59":

That makes more sense. I didn't read obviously. Don't I feel silly.
I just bought a 41" FH belt at Napa. He crossed the CAT49-111 to 58 + inches. I think he said 58 7/8"
I'll see if the twins match as soon as I get a chance.
I should probably take the belt in and have them measure it and replace it too.
They only sell inch sizes, no fractional.

 

[Janderso]

The 41" belt worked perfect. The two belts work in harmony with the same tension!!!!

As a side note, I'm replacing the upper wheel bearings, they are shot!
I watched a couple videos on how to do it plus I've done it before.
This time the bearings did not budge. I am trying to place a punch through one side and drive the opposite bearing out the back. It would not budge.
I borrowed a blind hole puller, solid as a rock. I assumed these bearings were original, they probably are, 50+ years stuck.
I got the idea of slowly applying some heat. I slowly heated up both sides of the hub and tried the punch again.
The bearing almost fell out!
If you find a stubborn bearing especially in aluminum, you don't need much heat. I got it to around 185 degrees F. (I have a laser thermometer)

 

[CluelessNewB]

For future reference my saw has a cast iron base and a 56 frame motor. With the motor adjusted all the way up I need a 42" belt for the metal side and a 60" belt for wood. The metal belt is about right but the wood 60" wood blade is a bit loose, a 59" won't work. It's not a big deal since I already have a wood only bandsaw. I will just keep the metal belt on it and leave the wood belt off, it will also be less wear on the wood pulley bearing.

 

[Janderso]

For future reference my saw has a cast iron base and a 56 frame motor. With the motor adjusted all the way up I need a 42" belt for the metal side and a 60" belt for wood. The metal belt is about right but the wood 60" wood blade is a bit loose, a 59" won't work. It's not a big deal since I already have a wood only bandsaw. I will just keep the metal belt on it and leave the wood belt off, it will also be less wear on the wood pulley bearing.

The 41 and 59 seem to work in your scenario as well. Just an inch longer across the two belts.
Good information going forward.

 

[Janderso]

Grandpop,
I installed new tires, belts, upper bearings, blade, changed the gear oil, thrust bearings, adjusted to a gnats ass.
It works well in the wood mode but the lower wheel is warped. The lower bearings sing in the metal mode more than in wood?
The lower bearings which I thought were ok are going to come out.
I’ve come this far, I may as well go the distance and replace the lower wheel with a cast iron replacement.
I thought I had a sweet saw. Turns out it needs a full overhaul.
Oh well, I’ll have a nice saw to last me the rest of my life.
My youngest son came over a while ago. I showed him how we can cut 1/2” wood in tight circles with the 1/4” blade.
He will use it. That makes me happy. In fact, we have some projects lined up.
Love it!

 

[Grandpop]

No real lower wheel bearings, just the bearings each end of the wheel shaft. Mine did not feel bad, but for $50 while it was all apart I did replace them. I do not have any shake in the wheel now when pulling on it.

Just went down and looked at mine now. My lower wheel runs true by eye at wood speed. I think if yours still runs out with new bearings I would bore the wheel center for a home made sleeve. Takes a bit of effort to get it all apart, but it is pretty simple stuff.

Loved the photo of your grand daughter the other day. I don't have any true children of my own, but do now have 2 grandsons (wife has 2 sons). Neither son is remotely interested in building fixing anything, no chance they would ever want any of my tools. I do have hopes that maybe one of the grandsons will take an interest if I can find projects to build with them while they are young. I found a T-Rex model on line, and want to print and transfer to some plywood to make a 2 foot long skeleton with the oldest.

Nice that your boy would at express an interest in using the saw. My dad had me running his machines when I was about 10. Still nice memories. We built a bookcase together when I was 11. While it isn't the fanciest, I still have it, and always will.

 

[Janderso]

Grandpop,
I enjoyed reading your post.
I’m really looking forward to finishing this project. It will be nice to have a top shelf metal wood band saw.
I have an awesome new Jet horizontal band saw but you really need both.

 

[robbonj69]

Hello Everyone, This forum has been a great source of info for restoring a 28-300. Thank you in advance for all the shared knowledge. Hopefully, someone can answer a specific question. I bought one in fairly good condition. The only issue is they have a wooden block installed on the clutch locking the saw in high-speed mode. The block was drilled to fit over the shaft between the knurled shifting knob and the large pulley, preventing the knob from being pushed into the metal mode.

I want to start using the saw for metal cutting, so I need to remove that block. The knob won't budge. I removed the set screw but can't get the knob off, which means I can't get the block off without breaking it. I need to know if the knob is threaded on or if they just beat it on.

As a side thought, I'm really hoping they didn't install that block because one of the pins broke and it doesn't work in the metal mode, but we'll cross that bridge when we get there.

Thanks in advance for any information.