Will a Craftsman QCGB casting fit on an Atlas 10F?

if they are cast iron I saw rust on age gear box when I purchased it cast will rust so I knew I was it was cast iron. When the gear box arrived I measured the sixe in diameter and the length and I made two pieces of cast iron,I then drilled and reamed to size. It was then a simple task to cut the 2 pieces in half and match them up and braze them after brazing I drilled and tapped for 2 set screws to hold the handle in place. See the photos of the gear box 3 and 4 above. Look in the downloads for the breakdown of the gear box it should be fairly simple. Now if your gear box is alum or zamac then that a different story all together. The only shaft to be removed is # 55 and its fairly simple then make the repairs. I was lucky enough to get 2 pieces also remove the shaft and the handles for the repairs.
for the parts I needed. get in touch with Joel at < mymachineshop.net > I think he can help you.If your gear box is not cast iron then its more of a challenge but it can be done with aluminum any thing else I can do to help you let me know. Attached is a drawing of the gear box which will give you a better idea of what to do.
 

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The gearbox itself is fine but both handles were broken like yours. I did get one from Joel awhile back and I see one on eBay from him now but more than I want to spend right now. I actually have an aluminum replacement I have been working on that are almost done and fits fine. I just need to cut the slot for the two gears and then do some shaping so it doesn't look so squarish. I would prefer real pieces but whatever works.
 
dgehricke.

Where did you come across the "1600" model number? According to my sources, the three 10" models are 1500, 1571 and 6800. And the three Craftsman model numbers are 101.20140, 101.20148 and 101.201451. I think that one is a 101.201451 with the slip clutch on the output
 
Robert its a manual for installation I have it down stairs in my shop I'll check tomorrow and let you know disco dan can you could post some photos.also DO NOT use JB weld buy some Devcon alum
dgehricke
 
Top to bottom: 2 original broken arms, an arm I bought that fits in every way except the slot for the two gears is too narrow and I now know that it is from an early 10 or 12 inch model but I could modify, and on the bottom is the aluminium version I am whittling. All of the critical dimensions are great and it just needs the slot for the gears and then slimmed down a bit.
 

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Disco Dan I believe those arms are cast aluminum easy fix if you cut to size some aluminum round stock and cut to length then cut in half drill each side for roll pins and attach with Devcon and then drill holes for roll pins, these days what is used for welding aluminum weld if you have the tools and equipment. Good luck
dgehricke
 
My broken arms are definitely cast iron like yours. The second from the bottom is not magnetic but feels heavier than aluminum. Could it be Zamac?
 
FWIW, installing a QCGB on a change gear 10" requires shortening the lead screw by one inch. Installing one on a 12" does not.

From the drawings, it appears that the selector arms on the 10" boxes and on the earliest 12: ones were probably Zamak. The drawings in the 10" and 12" manuals printed up through around 1952, including the section view shown in both 10" gearbox manuals show a part that wouldn't have been practical to make with a sand casting. The ones on my 3996 match the drawings in the the later manuals which would have been typical of sand cast parts, and therefore are cast iron. The earlier drawings are too thin and too finely detailed. Two of the three arms The three arms shown in a photo earlier in this thread are flat sided like you would expect from a sand casting. The weird thing is that Atlas never changed the part number, even with with s suffix "A".
 
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wa5cab, in my picture the top two arms are the later model cast flat sides and part #10-1586. The third one down is the early one that I believe is Zamac and is not flat sided (see attached better pic). It is part #10-1506.
 

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OK. I guess that I should have blown the photo up. In the thumbnail, the three black ones all look the same from two feet away. To add insult to injury, although the part number and part were revised from 10-1506 to 10-1586 between the original late 1947 introduction of the 1500 and the 1952 or maybe a little earlier introduction of the 6800 and the 101.20140, 101.27430 and 101.27440, the drawings in the manuals were not redone to show the cast iron levers until sometime after the Summer of 1957. So for several years, the drawings and even one photograph still show the Zamak die cast levers.
 
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