What's the point of a "dual purpose" knurler/holder?

Bump knurling is problematic to say the least. It puts a lot of strain where your part meets the chuck so I would only bump knurl parts that are stout enough to take the pressure. That said, there are also more than one kind of wheel you can use on them. I can’t recall the names but one displaces material to form the knurl while the other cuts (and I believe forms too) the desired texture. I wouldn’t “cut it off” as there are other uses for it, you. You can make your own wheels with different shapes, for example if you had thin tubing to chop into shorter pieces, you could make wheels similar to a pipe cutter. Ect….
As far as the other end goes, HS tool bits can be ground to nearly any shape so don’t think it’s only for boring. Left hand tools become turning tools in that orientation.
 
Meh, I use one occationaly. Works fine for me.

I use the tool slot for whatever fits in it without issue.

My caveat is that I don’t use it very often. But when I do, works fine for me.
 
great white said:
My caveat is that I don’t use it very often. But when I do, works fine for me.
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I have 2 of those, one for AXA, and oen for BXA and no joy. Perhaps I have crappy knurl wheels, but mine have never worked, even on aluminum. My swivel - style bump knurler works 100% of the time.
 
Dabbler said:
I have 2 of those, one for AXA, and oen for BXA and no joy. Perhaps I have crappy knurl wheels, but mine have never worked, even on aluminum. My swivel - style bump knurler works 100% of the time.
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Mine work on mild steel fine. Takes a little eyeballing to get it on center, but once there, seems to work fine.

As far as I know, mine are just cheap overseas pieces.
 
I have a beefy lathe and no problem bump knurling anything over ~1/2" - after that it gets hard to get the tool in there and workpiece deflection becomes an issue. So cut knurling or scissor knurling it is. Nice thing about cut knurling is that it works in plastics where even a scissor knurler isn't going to produce crisp results. At least that's the theory. I've been (ploddingly) building the cut knurler from ~2010 HSM series. I've incorporated some changes from here: cut knurler build . It's a cool project, relatively challenging to me, and I look forward to using the result.

GsT
 
GeneT45 said:
I have a beefy lathe and no problem bump knurling anything over ~1/2" - after that it gets hard to get the tool in there and workpiece deflection becomes an issue. So cut knurling or scissor knurling it is. Nice thing about cut knurling is that it works in plastics where even a scissor knurler isn't going to produce crisp results. At least that's the theory. I've been (ploddingly) building the cut knurler from ~2010 HSM series. I've incorporated some changes from here: cut knurler build . It's a cool project, relatively challenging to me, and I look forward to using the result.

GsT
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Wow, that Tom Blough cut knurler looks like a fantastic project. I don't always mind ponying up for fine tools, but a cut knurler has been way out of my price vs. useage potential vs. viable alternatives index. Now, maybe not so much... I might play with those solidworks files a little bit and see what I come up with.
 
Another reason I actually like my “cheapy” knurler is that I often use it to increase the diameter of worn bits.

Its an often used technique when you need to nurse a competent along a bit longer before replacement.

I’ve also used the knurler to tighten up things mounted on shafts. For example: i had a shaft that fit a pulley, but it wouldn’t lock together when locktite was applied. A little knurling and it would press in nicely with locktite applied.

I’m not sure if it would have been as effective if I had a cut knurler instead of a form knurler….
 
ChazzC said:
The issue with this style of knurler is that it puts undo stress on the lathe spindle and cross slide, particularly on the smaller lathes it usually comes with (or as part of a tooling package for). While you can produce decent knurls with them, you are better off getting a scissors/pinch style knurler: more expensive but cheaper in the long run.

I got one of these as part of the 0XA QCTP package I purchased years ago. I keep a chamfering bit in the tool end and took the wheels off the knurling end so I wouldn't be tempted. If I have the need to do any face knurling, I'l put one of the wheels back on and give it a try.
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I agree with this. The bump knurler needs significant pressure by the cross to push to make the knurl. On a smaller machine it is likely to strip out or damage your cross nut.

Those should not be included with AXA kits. OXA no question they are not useful and likely damage the machine.

Think about it. You need to press the tool very hard into the metal to make the knurl. All on the cross slide screw and nut.

I have a Warner Swasey turret lathe for one of my machines with CXA tools and the bump works, but that is a large machine and lot of power.

Scissor type is the way to go.
 
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