What's the point of a "dual purpose" knurler/holder?

[tq60]

You place a normal cutter in opposite side and face with it.

Sent from my SM-G781V using Tapatalk

 

[mmcmdl]

If your talking about this type of holder , it is junk . Send it to me and I'll pay you scrap $$$$ any day . These are precision tools which are made to eliminate 1 or 2 operations on CNC or turrett lathes . They are NOT junk as some say . Really not to effective for use on a manual , but once set up in a toolholder , it will knurl any knurl you need with straight knurling wheels . I buy junk if you ever consider selling this .

Oh crap , just saw your pic . Yes , that knurler is hard to handle unless you make a pivoting point . The open end is just a facing tool holder . Back to regular programming .

 

[MrWhoopee]

Cut the knurling end off and use it as a regular tool holder. The knurler is junk.
I use mine to hold a dial indicator stem.
Joe

I have 3 of these and did this to 2 of them. Milling the slot out was bad enough, then I realized I needed to tap holes in them......

 

[Harry Knutz]

I believe he is referring to one of these. I use the tool holder for a facing tool.

 

[rwdenney]

For me, it holds 3/8” HSS tooling well, which gives it a reason to exist. The knurler does not provide that justification.

Rick “came with the kit” Denney

 

[Shotgun]

I've heard these knurlers called out as junk so many times that I was nervous to use it. But, I ran it across a sheet of paper to get the tooth spacing, then made sure my stock's circumference was an increment of the spacing. Put it in the post, and brought the center up to the material. I did not lock or even snug up the tool post. Left it completely loose. Crossed my fingers, fired Sebastian up, and ran a perfectly usable knurl for several inches in my mystery steel. The drama was all for naught.

The other side holds a chamfering/facing tool.

 

[ChazzC]

I've heard these knurlers called out as junk so many times that I was nervous to use it. But, I ran it across a sheet of paper to get the tooth spacing, then made sure my stock's circumference was an increment of the spacing. Put it in the post, and brought the center up to the material. I did not lock or even snug up the tool post. Left it completely loose. Crossed my fingers, fired Sebastian up, and ran a perfectly usable knurl for several inches in my mystery steel. The drama was all for naught.

The other side holds a chamfering/facing tool.

The issue with this style of knurler is that it puts undo stress on the lathe spindle and cross slide, particularly on the smaller lathes it usually comes with (or as part of a tooling package for). While you can produce decent knurls with them, you are better off getting a scissors/pinch style knurler: more expensive but cheaper in the long run.

I got one of these as part of the 0XA QCTP package I purchased years ago. I keep a chamfering bit in the tool end and took the wheels off the knurling end so I wouldn't be tempted. If I have the need to do any face knurling, I'l put one of the wheels back on and give it a try.

 

[tailstock4]

I agree with ChazzC on the bump-style knurlers especially on smaller, lighter machines. They put quite a bit of pressure on the cross-slide nut. I could see it eventually causing rocking issues with these nuts given the way most of these are mounted. I think the scissor-type is better as it can relieve this pressure, but they still lack rigidity in longitudinal travel. I like the Aloris style especially for larger, more powerful machines. I’ve posted a picture of one They are rigid and capable of applying quite a bit of pressure.

As was stated earlier, knurling improves with good quality knurls and machine rigidity.

 

[SLK001]

I've heard these knurlers called out as junk so many times that I was nervous to use it. But, I ran it across a sheet of paper to get the tooth spacing, then made sure my stock's circumference was an increment of the spacing. Put it in the post, and brought the center up to the material. I did not lock or even snug up the tool post. Left it completely loose. Crossed my fingers, fired Sebastian up, and ran a perfectly usable knurl for several inches in my mystery steel. The drama was all for naught.

The other side holds a chamfering/facing tool.

I guess that it is the luck of the draw. My AXA QCTP kit came with this exact same knurler. Neither wheel was concentric with the hole in the "center". I imagine that putting quality wheels in something like this would make it somewhat usable.

I just ended up building this.

 

[Parlo]

Cut knurling is now popular, it has less stress on the spindle because it cuts the pattern instead of forming it.