What Type Of Cutting Oil is correct

The best for steel or brass is dark threading used by plumbers {note dark may stain brass} .
Aluminum WD40 work great
On Alum I use kerosene cause its cheaper. atleast at last check it was. A gallon of K1 is over $10 now- I used to fill my day tank on the boat and heat my cabin with it, it burned a gallon in 24 hrs- $10 a DAY to heat my boat? Yachting is becoming a sport for the rich ;-)
 
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I’ve been thinking a bit about this same topic. I know people use WD40 for aluminium, so I’ve tried that and it works fine in my limited experience. For steel, in the uk the popular brand seems to be CT-90. I’ve got that in an oil form and a ‘non drip’ paste type substance. I see a lot of YouTube videos where people are spraying something on with a spray bottle that I assume is cutting fluid that would normally be in a flood coolant system? I don’t know what to order to try that out though. We don’t get Kool Mist in the UK, so I’m not sure what our equivalent is.


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It also depends on where lathe is
Dark cutting or WD40 not good for in home use. A sent free with a soldering brush is best.

Some old books would tell how make your own cutting oil . But I like buying off the shelf.

This what I use $26.00 a gal

Dave
 
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@toprecyler explained for me, but in this case IDRC (I Didn't Remember Correctly - new acronym): couldn't find Crisco or Waxed Paper in my TMBR Index (The Machinist's Bedside Reader - get the set, Vol 1 has been reprinted and is available on Amazon; the others are on the used market, but can be pricey). I'll keep looking (Brownell's Gunsmith Kinks and other sources) and report back.
Haven't found the Crisco reference yet, but found the one about waxed paper:

"Take a piece of regular wax paper and wrap the body portion of the chambering reamer with 2 thickness of wax paper from the edge of the front shoulder up the reamer a little past the point of the reamer that is going to be the mouth of the chamber when the chamber is to full depth. Does a beautiful job of eliminating that ever-so-popular chamber reamer chatter. Lyle Laurvick, Superior, Wisconsin" Gunsmith Kinks II, © 1983 F. Brownell & Son​
 
Found this gem:

"Out at White Sands Missile Range they use the hand soap known as "GOOP" for tapping aluminum. Works good for me, too! - Lt. Col. Francis B. Conway (Ret.), Las Cruces, New Mexico" Gunsmith Kinks III © 1993 F. Brownell & Son​
 
John L. Hinnant says that if one is so inclined, one may use gauze patches over the reamer when finishing. I just use Mobilmet, I don't believe in voodoo dolls or magic charms.
 
John L. Hinnant says that if one is so inclined, one may use gauze patches over the reamer when finishing. I just use Mobilmet, I don't believe in voodoo dolls or magic charms.
It is written that Behardamoore J. Philwhip once exclaimed standing beside his gleaming Monarch reaming machine "My Factory! my factory for a white gauze patch!"
 
I am not an experienced machinist. This is my go to cutting oil:

Cutting oil.png

$10 at any Harbor Freight and it easy to dispense from the spray bottle.

From a recommendation on this forum I bought a bottle of water based Anchorlube and have been quite impressed with it. I usually put a dab in a small cup, thin it with water and apply it with an acid brush brush while cutting.

AcroLube.png



Acid Brushes.png

$3 for 36 brushes:

I have had very good results with chain bar oil!

WD40 is what I use for aluminum.

I have used motor oil many times because it was what I had at hand.

Kano KROIL is the best stuff ever concocted, but it is a penetrant for breaking frozen nuts, bolts and other pieces loose. It is not a lubricant and is too costly to use as a cutting aid.
 
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John L. Hinnant says that if one is so inclined, one may use gauze patches over the reamer when finishing. I just use Mobilmet, I don't believe in voodoo dolls or magic charms.
Also recommended by several references for use when countersinking: the gauze (or thin cloth) holds the cutting fluid and "cushions" the chatter away (or so they say . . .).
 
Haven't found the Crisco reference yet, but found the one about waxed paper:

"Take a piece of regular wax paper and wrap the body portion of the chambering reamer with 2 thickness of wax paper from the edge of the front shoulder up the reamer a little past the point of the reamer that is going to be the mouth of the chamber when the chamber is to full depth. Does a beautiful job of eliminating that ever-so-popular chamber reamer chatter. Lyle Laurvick, Superior, Wisconsin" Gunsmith Kinks II, © 1983 F. Brownell & Son​
That's crazy- the things people do before they find out about Crisco!
 
$3 for 36 brushes:
just picked up these brushes last week - surprised at excellent quality. I cut mine pretty short so they are stiff. I gotta try the CRC they make good stuff.
Kano KROIL is the best stuff ever concocted, but it is a penetrant for breaking frozen nuts, bolts and other pieces loose. It is not a lubricant and is too costly to use as a cutting aid.
Sure spray it if you can wait a couple hours or more but if it's really stuck the only thing you need is a propane torch. I pretty much just go straight for the torch and skip the mess around
 
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