What to do if my mystery steel is eating my HSS

Oh yeah, I probably have the same inexpensive 12T hydraulic press; they're everywhere :grin:. It's been absolutely fine.

Taps and dies seem to be really variable (unless you buy someone like Dormer, Presto or Gearwrench). I remember in the early 80's, my dad bemoaning a set of taps and dies he got from one of the engineering suppliers he used for work and ended up buying a set of Halfords that were much better.

I have a set I bought from Lidl (almost certainly made in China but QC'd by Germans!) and they're really tidy.

Mostly though, with the kind of stuff we buy, if you buy from recognised quality names, you tend to see the benefit in reliability and durability.
yea taps are one place i'm not buying cheap tools, broken taps are a PITA, so
Dormer, Presto or Gearwrench?
I agree but it is hard to get a handle on which actually offer a good quality part and those that are living off of their rep. I'm not opposed to spending money on better tools that i need but the old saying that you get what you pay for should be amended to "you rarely get more than what you pay for, but often get less" there is also the question of how good of a tool do i really need to do the job in front of me?
it is also a double edged sword, i would love a high end CNC mill but tools and parts go up exponentially with those, so i'm looking for a ballance.
 
If you’re gonna use mystery steel why not learn how to spark test. It’ll give you another skill AND some idea of what you’re working with.

But, do indulge in some 12L14 so you can see what all the fuss is about.

John
spark test?
yes i was looking at buying some 12L14 yesterday, if i'm planning a compound replacement for me 9X24 lathe would that be a good choice?
 
Thanks to all who have taken the time to comment, be aware that i'm listening to everyone even if it does not always sound like it.
 
yea taps are one place i'm not buying cheap tools, broken taps are a PITA, so

I agree but it is hard to get a handle on which actually offer a good quality part and those that are living off of their rep. I'm not opposed to spending money on better tools that i need but the old saying that you get what you pay for should be amended to "you rarely get more than what you pay for, but often get less" there is also the question of how good of a tool do i really need to do the job in front of me?
it is also a double edged sword, i would love a high end CNC mill but tools and parts go up exponentially with those, so i'm looking for a ballance.
I don't think anybody ever felt buyers remorse after buying Dormer. I also have a couple of Presto HSS drills I got in an ebay purchase of a job lot of drills 6 months ago and the two Presto drills, once I got the thin surface rust layer off them, are the only drills out of that buy that we're worth keeping out of the 'spare HSS stock' drawer ;)
 
Thanks to all who have taken the time to comment, be aware that i'm listening to everyone even if it does not always sound like it.
Everyone of us has to find their own way and with a few exceptions (if David P Best told me that wearing a top hat and monocle would help me increase the DOC that I could sustain on my mini lathe, I'd be uncritically halfway to the local costume shop by the time I'd even thought about it! :oops::grin:) it's always best to be privately sceptical about anything you get told on the internet. ;)
 
spark test?
yes i was looking at buying some 12L14 yesterday, if i'm planning a compound replacement for me 9X24 lathe would that be a good choice?
12L14 is easy to machine, but might not be needed if you're planning on making a plinth to replace the compound. Aluminum might be easier to work with, and probably plenty stiff enough for that purpose.

John
 
I acquired a 3"X3" drop of 1" steel that i assumed was A36, i applied my brand new fly cutter to practice squaring up stock it was ruff cut (oxy acetylene cut) so lots of ruff edges, so i'm thinking great i can get lots of practice on some free material. I took the fly cutter (without shaping the HSS and started on it, this absolutely ate the the HSS. I then sharpened some 1/4" HSS (cheap from HF) put clearances on all sides needed and sharpened it with diamond hone, then the steel ate this HSS also. i then switched to a 3/8 carbide 4 flute end mill (cheap amazon) and after cutting some, broke off the ends of the flutes, i then switched to 12mm HSS 4 flute and this cut the steel but it dulled very quickly.

Is it possible that this is not A36 or am i just using crappy tools/technique?
When do machining and I have that problem I just goto carbide.
Problem not A36 the scrape been is any one's guess.

Note a few times I had to machine some that eats carbide. If would touch it the only choice is grinding.

Get some real A36 or 12L14 life will be great again

Dave
 
I have a set I bought from Lidl (almost certainly made in China but QC'd by Germans!) and they're really tidy.
Ahem...I may have to eat my words here.

I just broke the M6 tap.

Now to be fair, I don't think it was the tap itself, the supplied wrench was poor at holding the larger taps firmly. I got fed up with it slipping and, in my unmedicated unfocused, impulsive, ADHD state (supply problems in the UK with Elvanse) used a set of mole grips and I suspect I put some force in on another plane other than the radial.

Anyway, ordered a Dormer M6 tap and a new T handle tap wrench. Should be here tomorrow.
 
Ahem...I may have to eat my words here.

I just broke the M6 tap.

Now to be fair, I don't think it was the tap itself, the supplied wrench was poor at holding the larger taps firmly. I got fed up with it slipping and, in my unmedicated unfocused, impulsive, ADHD state (supply problems in the UK with Elvanse) used a set of mole grips and I suspect I put some force in on another plane other than the radial.

Anyway, ordered a Dormer M6 tap and a new T handle tap wrench. Should be here tomorrow.
Do yourself a favor, buy a quality tap wrench. In the US it might be a Starrett, but get some sort of high quality equivalent. It makes a huge difference. I used to have junky hardware store tap wrenches and had trouble with the tap getting loose or out right slipping. Once I got good tap wrenches, there was no more slipping, and tapping became non-eventful. My only regret is not buying them earlier.
 
Do yourself a favor, buy a quality tap wrench. In the US it might be a Starrett, but get some sort of high quality equivalent. It makes a huge difference. I used to have junky hardware store tap wrenches and had trouble with the tap getting loose or out right slipping. Once I got good tap wrenches, there was no more slipping, and tapping became non-eventful. My only regret is not buying them earlier.
Unfortunately, I can't seem to find Starrett available to order in the UK. I'd like a 91B but they're on back order everywhere, even Starret.co.uk

I'm not really sure of an alternative quality manufacturer available in the UK.
 
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