What R8 drill chuck should I get?

I would look at the nickle plated version of Shar's, they have tighter specs (TIR) vs. the lower priced version. I have some of their other higher end tooling like their nickle plated ER chucks and they meet/exceed specs.

3/32-5/8" Keyless drill chuck with R8 Integral Shank

Shars Tool
www.shars.com www.shars.com

One issue with some of the keyless chucks is that they do self tighten to the point that they are very difficult to loosen. This seems to vary by brand, but often reported with the Albrecht. I have the Llambrich 5/8" JK-160 R8 keyless drill chuck with Integrated R8 Shank and haven't had this problem. I have several Llambrich chucks w/o any issues and hold tight TIR, but I would recommend the Shar's at a more moderate price point. I would not use a keyless chuck for things like hole saws and/or larger drills, I have the Glacern keyless chuck and the body failed on mine using a smaller hole saw probably due to the torque on the chuck. I have an older 5/8" Jacobs keyed chuck that works much better in that application, and also for use with Silver & Deming drills. I like the older Jacobs chucks, but they have gotten expensive and often may be in poor shape.
 
mickri said:
Martik777 I went with the ER32 because of the spindle bore on the lathe. The largest ER32 collet is just larger than the spindle bore on my lathe.
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Me too, I have er25 for the mill er32 for the lathe
 
Denisj said:
Missed an old Albrecht on ebay
Leaning to the Shars at $55 for a 5/8 keyless new

Drilling mostly..holes in steel and alum brackets for my work. A pilot hile and often 6-12mm holes
Minimal milling with it, but im sure I'll try. I have 3 R8 collets for the only 3 end mills I have.
I'm still super green with a mill and have almost no tooling and less experience.
I never was a huge fan of using a drill press..felt unnecessary when the mill works well. I used my friends BP to work some brackets and had an apifinay...the mill is a drill press.

Feel free to correct me if I'm missing something. The floor space didnt allow another machine and the drill press lost.
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The shars looks exactly the same as the ebay ~$20 generic keyless chucks. I have 5 of them, no issues at all.

You can get a full set of ER25 (16 pcs) for ~ $30 and a R8 collet chuck for your mill is about $20

but if you are mostly drilling holes of diff sizes a chuck is probably best.
 
I drill more holes than most people. Sometimes 5000-10,000 per day.
My volt is for the US-made Jacobs Ball Bearing Super Chuck .
I'm one of the few people that does not like an Albrecht chuck.
Get a drill stuck in one and you will see my point.
 
what is a good run out on a chuck? i am looking at the R8 integrated chucks as well, trying to decide and not wanting to spend a ton of money for a decent one. Is .005 too much run out ( i am thinking so, but i don't really know). i think i would be happy with a .002. Now, lets be honest, i am not sure my skills could use a drill with a run out of .002 … but if i screw up a part i want it to be me and not my equipment.
 
What exactly you are looking for is up to you . All chucks have their pros and cons . Price , accuracy ,keyed , keyless , R8 or straight shank , etc . Runout of less than .003 is acceptable , a drill chuck is not a precision tool .
 
Driveslayer45 said:
Now, lets be honest, i am not sure my skills could use a drill with a run out of .002 … but if i screw up a part i want it to be me and not my equipment.
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If you screw up a part for the reason stated above , it would be the operators fault , not the machine nor tooling . They make reamers for holding diameters and runout doesn't effect size . Learn your tools and their intended purposes before purchasing anything . ;)
 
Driveslayer45, I think it’s probably common knowledge on this Forum but it wasn’t until fairly recently that I discovered what a crummy hole a drill bit makes; they are really not very round and not very smooth. So I am not sure how critical run out is when drilling unless it is really bad. Nowadays, if I need a really nice round and precisely sized hole I use a drill followed by a reamer. If it is a large hole I use a hole saw followed by a boring head. I have a 5/8” Albrecht R8 keyless chuck that I use for smaller holes up to about 1/2”. When the Albrecht keyless Chuck is used this way I have found that it is a real pleasure to use and releases easily. If I drill anything larger by using a reduced shank drill bit or hole saw, etc. I use my big, keyed, R8 5/8” ball bearring Jacobs chuck. The old Jacobs chuck I have seems to be indestructible and never locks-up like an Albrecht can if you use too large a tool. Hope that helps. TK
 
Titaniam K .. i certainly understand the best holes are made by a reamer, just thinking about getting a good start with the cleaner hole
 
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