What R8 drill chuck should I get?

In the very near future , the ship is going to hit the fan , so to speak . I'm in the process of figuring out my last move in the machining arena . I'm loaded up with stuff and can't even get to it , but as soon as this grass cuts me a break it's all going other than the basics . :)
 
I'm not understanding..did you mean a chuck that has a straight arbor?
MrWhoopee said:
As usual, I'm the contrarian.
Get a straight shank chuck (3/4" shank) and cut the shank to about 1/2 length. Much easier to get in and out of the spindle.
Do not hold S&D (reduced shank) drills in a chuck, hold them in a collet. Reduces the likelihood of damage to both chuck and drill.
Click to expand...
 
This is great information guys. I suspected there was little left in the states.
 
I have several Jacobs chucks, maybe 3 or 4 ball bearing super ones and one Albrecht with an R-8 collet. Also have a number of cheaper Jacobs chucks with straight arbor. Like Mr. Whoopee mentioned above, they are convenient on (for me) on the Bridgeport which usually has a ER-32 collet chuck on it. If the job is going to use a 1/2" end mill which takes a 1/2" collet, I use the Jacobs chuck with a 1/2" straight shank (have chucks with 3/8" and 5/8" straight arbors also). It saves from having to change ER collets and/or loosen/tighten the drawbar on the BP.

I also have a Jet JVM-830 mill where the top of the spindle is at about 6'. It's a really easy reach so it has R-8 collets exclusively on it. I have the Albrecht and a Super chuck at this mill, but usually use a keyed import chuck because it has better run out than either of the other two chucks.

My lathes have Jacobs ball bearing Super chucks too, but I usually use 1/2" capacity keyless import chucks purchased from All Industrial Tool Supply. These both have MT3 arbors, All Industrial has 1/2" keyless chucks on eBay with an R-8 arbor for about $32 shipped.

Bruce
 
I am going to throw out another option. I went to an ER32 system for my mill/drill and lathe. I have an ER32/R8 adapter that lives in the mill/drill. I have an ER32/MT2 adapter that I use in the tailstock on the lathe and I made an ER32 chuck that fits on the headstock of the lathe. It is slower to use then a drill chuck if your are changing drills all the time. But it is much more compact than a drill chuck and can be used with drills or end mills. I have not had to move the head on the mill/drill when changing tooling on the projects that I have done so far. The key to ease of use is to have 3 or 4 ER32 nuts with the different collets in them that you need for the project you are working on. I have 4. If I am just drilling holes I use my drill press.
 
At the beginning of the year I bought an R8 shank chuck from Precision Matthews and an MT3 shank chuck from Glacern. Both about the same price, and the same (good) quality. They do up to 5/8, run about a hundred bucks a pop. No complaints, though they are both keyless chucks which some people do not prefer.
 
Martik777 I went with the ER32 because of the spindle bore on the lathe. The largest ER32 collet is just larger than the spindle bore on my lathe.
 
Albrecht’s keyless chucks are very nicely made but pricey; when used correctlythey work great. I have a 5/8” R8 for my mill and 1/2” MT3 with diamond coated jaws for my lathe. But just a word of caution, I ruined my 5/8” R8 Albrecht by using a 2”hole saw. It locked and wouldn’t release. I used a strap wrench and finally got it to release but the run out was visible afterwards. I sent it to Albrecht(Royal) and I was told that the repair would be several hundred dollars and that they do not recommend using a drill or other device larger than the stated size of the chuck. I was fortunate, they sent me a new replacement at no charge.

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