To really get an accurate taper, one wouldn't use the ruler method in the book. I mount a dial indicator in my tool post and another indicator against the carriage. The latter is held with a magnetic base indicator holder. Then, by moving the carriage a known distance, say 1.000", I see how much the toolpost mounted indicator has moved. By simple trig, you can determine the precise angle, or by multiplying the toolpost deflection by 12/carriage_travel, you can determine taper in inches per foot (often how tapers are spec-ed).
If you have only one indicator, you can use your compound (set at 90 deg) to set the longitudinal travel...
Remember, tapers are specified using the included angle, so you need to machine it so that your tailstock is set to give 1/2 this angle.
To set up the taper initially, I assume my tailstock is aligned to the headstock (it is). Then, using an toolpost mounted indicator, I offset the tailstock 1/2 the required taper.
Also, with a taper, surface finish is important. CRS is tough in that department... For me, I'd use 303 SS (I have a lot) and live with the galling that could occur.
BTW, when are you gonna show us your projects? Don't be ashamed!
John