What is Needed for Making a Gear?

The B&S #0 dividing head is only $225.
That’s a good start.
I ordered the set of cutters and the arbor.

Looking for the recommended mandrel.

And I will order the BS-0 in a couple of months… Thanks you all.
 
I've done gears a few times with a Grizzly horizontal/vertical rotary table, and it ends up being pretty easy once you get the hang of it! The one BIG thing I'd suggest is to decide on the dimensions you care about, and start buying single cutters NOS on ebay. The 'sets' are either super expensive, or pretty poor quality. Additionally, you'll find you use about 3 of the 8 in your life, and never the rest.

IF you have a shaper, there are setups you can do to make a gear-cutting-setup where you use simple ground cutter that actually cuts TRUE involute (instead of approximated involute), but its somewhat time consuming.
 
if you have a rotary table you can get plates for it to do gears. You won't be able to make helical, or angular gears. Angular if you build a sine table are possible to angle the rotary table.

From my view, I would invest when I need to cut gears. its too expensive to buy gear cutters and not use them.
Also Boston gear has most everything you need to buy gears. so way cheaper. Make when you can't buy.

The opinions are mine, just think it's one area that you do when you need it...
 
What thread do you think started all this , huh!?? :p I was just browsing along, minding my own business, when waaaam!! Gear making…

So thank you!!
so it's Jeff's fault? Take some responsibility there Jamie..
You are addicted to tools.. plain and simple.
Repeat after me:
God grant me the serenity
to accept the things I cannot change;
courage to change the things I can;
and wisdom to know the difference.​
 
The B&S #0 dividing head is only $225.
That’s a good start.
i was thinking about this one..

Which one is it that you are referring to that is only 225?
 
i was thinking about this one..

Which one is it that you are referring to that is only 225?
Same one I was looking at…
 
Most of these dividing heads are likely produced in the same factory. There may be different quality standards, but that's my speculation. I ordered one and the internal packing materials were generic, ie the foam was not customized to the content. This allowed weight shift to occur and probably contributed to having the box dropped. My box was dropped prior to receiving it. There was internal damage which was only visible when the unit was totally disassembled. The piece that was broken was not available. I eventually got my money back after a few torturous weeks.

I then bought a PM version of the same thing. Custom foam packing totally immobilized the 52 lb contents. Double boxed. It did cost more. Probably the same factory, but this version was finished better on many surfaces, especially the engraving. Don't regret getting the BS0 from PM.

If you go the cheap route, make sure the box wasn't dropped. If not dropped, it would probably be ok. Oh, and stone the engraved angle scale, it's likely sharp. My first one would cut your fingers. The PM one was a lot smoother. Good luck!
 
I have this 6" rotary table that I bought not too long ago... came with dividing plates.

Rotary Table.jpeg

Based on feedback from you guys (thank you @woodchucker !! ), I should be able to use this and hold off on buying a dividing head for now...

I will make my own tailstock and get an inexpensive chuck to mount on it.
 
I have this 6" rotary table that I bought not too long ago... came with dividing plates.

View attachment 402161

Based on feedback from you guys (thank you @woodchucker !! ), I should be able to use this and hold off on buying a dividing head for now...

I will make my own tailstock and get an inexpensive chuck to mount on it.
Thats the one I use (though the grizzly version of it https://www.grizzly.com/products/grizzly-6-rotary-table-w-div.-plates/h7527). I have a small/junky 3 jaw MT chuck (like a 2 or 3 inch!) that i use to hold the arbor, and I did fine without a tailstock. See: https://www.hobby-machinist.com/thr...it-miss-engine-build-thread.83701/post-742385

I've done gears since, but the closer you get to the chuck in this configuration, the better. One thing to note about the tailstock: The ONLY pressure that the cutter does is towards the rotary table, and 'away' from the cutter. So if you can have some sort of 1-2-3 block stack that rests against the shaft, there are no problems. I think i actually have the tailstock, but didn't end up bothering with it.
 
Thats the one I use (though the grizzly version of it https://www.grizzly.com/products/grizzly-6-rotary-table-w-div.-plates/h7527). I have a small/junky 3 jaw MT chuck (like a 2 or 3 inch!) that i use to hold the arbor, and I did fine without a tailstock. See: https://www.hobby-machinist.com/thr...it-miss-engine-build-thread.83701/post-742385

I've done gears since, but the closer you get to the chuck in this configuration, the better. One thing to note about the tailstock: The ONLY pressure that the cutter does is towards the rotary table, and 'away' from the cutter. So if you can have some sort of 1-2-3 block stack that rests against the shaft, there are no problems. I think i actually have the tailstock, but didn't end up bothering with it.
That is a chuck with an MT-2 arbor in it!? Ha!! How cool is that... and that is all that is needed to hold the mandrel... and I don't have to deal with building a backplate, centering, etc... I can start with that!

IMG_20200506_170739.jpeg
 
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