What Did You Buy Today?

[erikmannie]

That machine spindle might be a little light to turn drill that size. I normally limit mine to 1'' max in steel.

Good point! There is a reason that they make boring heads.

 

[NCjeeper]

Or use an annular cutter.

 

[Gnpenning]

I normally don't post over here because most of the stuff I buy is just what everyone else purchases (or of lesser quality, so I'm usually a bit on the humbler side of the purchase). But this time, it was too valuable to pass up ($11).

I was watching a woodworking video (talking about using 1-2-3 blocks for wood working setups), and the narrator mentioned 1-2-3 block set up hardware. Heretofore, I've used the threads in the 1-2-3 blocks, or bolts all the way through the blocks, to do my set ups. These little kits are pretty nifty.

View attachment 417724

The barrel nuts slide right in (some issue with size interference on some 1-2-3 blocks), and have a slot on the side to align the nuts. Then you just thread things together.

View attachment 417725

Makes setups without protruding bolts or nuts very easy.

Granted, this would be an easy thing to make for yourself, but I had to go make a purchase of them just because the brilliance behind the kit.

You don't by chance have link?

 

[extropic]

Where do think it would fail? snip>

I didn't use the word "fail". I wrote "What is the potential for the set-up to damage the machine or operator?"

IMO, the hyper extended tooling has virtually zero practical use. If you want to create large (>1 inch) holes on a Bridgeport/clone, annular cutters are excellent for the job. McMaster sells them up to 2" and MSC lists them to 6.5" (maybe too big for a Bridgeport).

The vertical force on the quill, needed to advance a 1.5" drill through an aluminum workpiece (even with a .5" pilot hole), will deform the alignment of the mill head relative to the table. That deformation creates a moment on the quill/spindle/bearings that an R8 spindle is not designed to carry, IMO.

Substantial shock at the cutting edges, like breaking through into intersecting features or through the workpiece, will alter the tram of the mill head. The Roll and Pitch clamping capabilities are finite, not infinite. Continuing drilling with the head out of tram compounds the bearing damage potential.

IMO, anybody that thinks the hyper extended tooling is OK lacks the experience/knowledge to mount a workpiece securely enough. That is the primary danger to the operator.

I think I've made my point here and I won't respond to any additional replies on the subject in the "What did you buy today" thread. I apologize to all for my part in the sidetrack.

If someone needs to continue to beat this horse, and wants my comments, start a new thread and call it to my attention. I don't see/read/follow all threads.

 

[erikmannie]

I didn't use the word "fail". I wrote "What is the potential for the set-up to damage the machine or operator?"

IMO, the hyper extended tooling has virtually zero practical use. If you want to create large (>1 inch) holes on a Bridgeport/clone annular cutters are excellent for the job. McMaster sells them up to 2" and MSC lists them to 6.5" (maybe too big for a Bridgeport).

The vertical force on the quill, needed to advance a 1.5" drill through an aluminum workpiece (even with a .5" pilot hole), will deform the alignment of the mill head relative to the table. That deformation creates a moment on the quill/spindle/bearings that an R8 spindle is not designed to carry, IMO.

Substantial shock at the cutting edges, like breaking through into intersecting features or through the workpiece, will alter the tram of the mill head. The Roll and Pitch clamping capabilities are finite, not infinite. Continuing drilling with the head out of tram compounds the bearing damage potential.

IMO, anybody that thinks the hyper extended tooling is OK lacks the experience/knowledge to mount a workpiece securely enough. That is the primary danger to the operator.

I think I've made my point here and I won't respond to any additional replies on the subject in the "What did you buy today" thread. I apologize to all for my part in the sidetrack.

If someone needs to continue to beat this horse, and wants my comments, start a new thread and call it to my attention. I don't see/read/follow all threads.

View attachment 417869

I uploaded 2 pictures of 2 parts that I recently bought mated together. Point taken about safety first.

In the future, I will limit myself to strictly uploading information on what I bought in this thread. Any follow up will go in a related thread.

I also hope that nobody else chime’s in on this issue which a moderator has deemed to be a sidetrack.

 

[silverhawk]

You don't by chance have link?

The 1-2-3 block hardware kits are put together by Taylor Toolworks. I think they go by the name of taytools on Amazon. https://taytools.com/products/123-b...32119&pr_ref_pid=2046611226675&pr_seq=uniform. $11 would beat the individual price of components at my big box store.

Sent from my SM-T500 using Tapatalk

 

[projectnut]

I believe I found the answer in here:

Test Indicator Brand Comparison

Test Indicator Brand Comparison: Mitutoyo, Starrett, Bestest, Interapid and others.

www.longislandindicator.com

and here:

B&S BesTest Indicator

Brown & Sharpe BesTest test indicator horizontal, vertical, black dial model

www.longislandindicator.com

I recommend that anybody buying a DTI should read the first ink.

Here is a screenshot from the second link:

I would be very careful about treating the opinions offered by Long Island Indicator as the gospel. They seem very opinionated against certain brands. One in particular is Federal. They rate them as the worst ever made, with poor workmanship and all kinds of faults.

If you ask the members of the Practical Machinists board to rate dial indicators and test indicators Federal is one of the most preferred. Here's a link to one thread i started when some were offered to me.

Quality of Federal Dial & Test Indicators?

Over the weekend I stopped at an equipment dealer in search of some 316 and 6061 flat stock. While I was there the owner approached me and said he had some measuring instruments I might be interested in. He had some Starrett inside mics, a Scherr Tumico bore gauge and a couple V blocks that...

www.practicalmachinist.com

I personally have close to a dozen Federal indicators. Of the over 3 dozen indicators I own they are just as accurate, and just as well built as B&S, Starrett, Interapid, and Mitutoyo's.

All My Federal indicators date from the 1970's and 80's and are fully jeweled. They may have made some economy models along the way, but their higher end models are as good as all the other major brands.

 

[projectnut]

Here's an update with pictures of last weekend's purchases. As mentioned, there were 3 bore gauges, a B&S magnetic V block. a couple Avenger magnetic bases (with extra clamps), a Federal DTI, and a set of B&S 1-2-3 blocks

 

[pontiac428]

Long Island Indicator says the last word is a good indicator, but the Mitsutoyos are throw-away units(??). They consider them throw aways because the repair costs almost as much as a replacement, so shops just replace them instead of repairing them. Is that a dig on Mitsu's low prices, or is that a dig on Long Island's high labor rate? What does it mean in regards to useful life and accuracy? Methinks their rundown of indicator brands is from the perspective of a repair shop, not from the perspective or a machine shop, and certainly not reflective of the philosophy in MY shop.

 

[mickri]

Picked up a few things over the weekend. First is a gear stop for the lathe. It locks the bull gear in place to make it easier to remove a stuck chuck. $8 on Ebay. Will have to see how it works. I have never cared for reaching over the gears to tension the belt to remove a chuck. I invariably get grease on my arm/sleeve which then always seems to get smeared somewhere else.



Next were two air pressure hoses. One is brand new and the other will need some help. I have never liked the cheapo HF hose that I have wrestled with for years. $18 from a local auction house.



And last but not least an arbor press that is huge. It needs a collar opposite the handle. Tony showed me how he converted a handle to make it easier to quickly move the ram. I can barely pick it up. And a 12 ton hydraulic press. I might cut this down to fit on a bench. I will think long and hard about that before I do it. I have another hydraulic press that fits on a bench that I made. It doesn't work very well because the bottle jack is inverted, I need to fiddle with it some more. These came from C-Bag. $40 for both of them. Thanks Tony.



Nothing fancy. Just more stuff for the shop. And where do I put?