What Did You Buy Today?

I believe I found the answer in here:

Test Indicator Brand Comparison

Test Indicator Brand Comparison: Mitutoyo, Starrett, Bestest, Interapid and others.
www.longislandindicator.com www.longislandindicator.com

and here:

B&S BesTest Indicator

Brown & Sharpe BesTest test indicator horizontal, vertical, black dial model
www.longislandindicator.com www.longislandindicator.com

I recommend that anybody buying a DTI should read the first ink.

Here is a screenshot from the second link:

A6A614DD-D84A-4FBB-A0B0-0CC22D51A4EB.png

I did not know what the circular tool in the photo below was. It is a stem wrench. I have been using a regular screwdriver to adjust that bolt on the stem.

DF3E0733-045C-473E-BA8E-95F2F0225C85.png
 
silverhawk said:
The barrel nuts slide right in (some issue with size interference on some 1-2-3 blocks), and have a slot on the side to align the nuts. Then you just thread things together.

Granted, this would be an easy thing to make for yourself, but I had to go make a purchase of them just because the brilliance behind the kit.
Click to expand...
Great idea! Ikea for machinist!

Bruce
 
erikmannie said:
It is a stem wrench. I have been using a regular screwdriver to adjust that bolt on the stem.
Click to expand...

My understanding is that that little coin with two bites out of it was meant as an open-end wrench to fit the flats on the tip here:
ScreenShot017b.jpg
....it allows you to unscrew and replace the tip. Instead of using a pliers.

Brian
 
I said that I was going to upload a photo of “a long taper shank drill in an adapter sleeve in an end mill holder”. Here is that set up.

In the photo, the table is down all the way & I have my longest taper shank drill in there.

On the left is my buddy Cliff Sheldon, & on the right is my Dad Rik Mannie:

A03B1D31-B231-41CE-AE72-7CE2A51A2DDD.jpeg
E11A07D1-0E1A-465D-938B-49442C0650BE.jpeg
 
@erikmannie

Nice clear photo. Thank you.
More importantly, what do you think of the set-up you have pictured?
What is the potential for the set-up to damage the machine or operator? Does it have a practical application (I'd like to see that picture)?
 
extropic said:
@erikmannie

Nice clear photo. Thank you.
More importantly, what do you think of the set-up you have pictured?
What is the potential for the set-up to damage the machine or operator? Does it have a practical application (I'd like to see that picture)?
Click to expand...

I have only had the knee mill for about 7 weeks. So far, the largest hole that I have had to drill was 1-1/4”. In that case, the work was clamped to the table.

The taper shank drills were purchased for use on the lathes.

My biggest criticism of the set up pictured is the torsional strain that you would get on a large diameter drill from the tip of the drill up to the R8 collet. In other words, the setup as pictured is not rigid with regard to rotational forces.

If I were to use taper shank drills on a milling machine, I would make sure to step drill, use proper feeds and speeds, use lubricant, clamp the work down 100% securely, and peck.
 
erikmannie said:
I have only had the knee mill for about 7 weeks. So far, the largest hole that I have had to drill was 1-1/4”. In that case, the work was clamped to the table.

The taper shank drills were purchased for use on the lathes.

My biggest criticism of the set up pictured is the torsional strain that you would get on a large diameter drill from the tip of the drill up to the R8 collet. In other words, the setup as pictured is not rigid with regard to rotational forces.

If I were to use taper shank drills on a milling machine, I would make sure to step drill, use proper feeds and speeds, use lubricant, clamp the work down 100% securely, and peck.
Click to expand...

Thank you for the explanation. I'm somewhat relieved.

My major concern with that picture is that persons of ALL knowledge/skill levels have access to see it and it chills me to think that someone might consider it 'good to go'. IMO, what is pictured is ill advised for any practical purpose. If I had the graphic arts skill, I would post here a copy of that photo overlaid with a large red circle w/ diagonal slash, in hopes of deterring other pilgrims from reproducing anything similar to that conglomeration. Safety first, please.
 
extropic said:
Thank you for the explanation. I'm somewhat relieved.

My major concern with that picture is that persons of ALL knowledge/skill levels have access to see it and it chills me to think that someone might consider it 'good to go'. IMO, what is pictured is ill advised for any practical purpose. If I had the graphic arts skill, I would post here a copy of that photo overlaid with a large red circle w/ diagonal slash, in hopes of deterring other pilgrims from reproducing anything similar to that conglomeration. Safety first, please.
Click to expand...

Where do think it would fail? I would guess at the work. I think that the setup is rigid enough in the z-plane. There are no x- or y- horizontal forces, so the only concern is a torsional failure, right?

I have had countless drills get embedded into the work. On a lathe with no tang on the MT2 shank of the keyless drill chuck, the MT2 shank spun in the (tailstock) quill.

I have also had the seal fail between a drill chuck & it’s (R8) shank. I.e. where the drill chuck mates to the shank (obviously this was not an integral shank drill chuck).

I have also had a drill spin in the drill chuck (the drill had no flats). Not so good for the jaws, & less so for the drill.

I would be very interested to hear what people’s opinions are as to what is the weak link in the photo that I posted.

I guess I will post the photos again so nobody has to go back and look.

Maybe the failure would be at the R8 shank!

3E040710-3ABA-4F42-962D-7A1E7DB51B04.jpeg
4A0AC3B7-9AFA-48F3-920A-4F8F9210DBBB.jpeg

The adapter sleeve has flats on it. Two 3/8” set screws in the end mill holder clamp to that flat.

I will post another picture of a 2-3/8” screw machine drill in the same end mill holder. The drill in the photo does not have any flats on it’s 1-1/2” shank, but I was thinking about milling some on.

86AA7321-C55C-4412-9407-19F79E67213E.jpeg

Wow. Looking at that photo, you have to worry about where the EMH meets it’s integral R8 shank if & when the long lever (1-3/16” lever) of the drill gets stuck in the work. This EMH is from Israel.

Finally, R8 to (female) MT4 adapters are commercially available. Almost all that I have seen were from China. Maybe it is not recommended to use taper shank drills in these adapters.
 
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