I've been really delinquent on posting tools for the day. Probably missed a few but these are over the last several months.
Couple of rolls of sandpaper off eBay for around $10 a roll
A bunch of 1/4" carbide end mill with radiused corners. I've got a job on the Tormach that is pretty rough on end mills, my poor programming of the tool path. Instead of spiraling the cutter (I think the term is adaptive cutting) while travelling around the blank, it's programmed to just plow on through. The program really does a job on the corners of the end mill. I've heard really good things about corner radius end mills, will give these a try. Of course, modifying the program would be a smarter move, on my "list of good intentions".
Click-bait TOTAL FAIL! I've got an upcoming project to organize my combo wrenches which will require cutting a bunch of 10-24 & 1/4-20 threaded rod to length. I saw a video for this chamfer tool, but my results weren't even close to the video. It's supposed to work like a pencil sharpener on rod/cut-off bolt stock. Nope, doesn't even make a chip. The problem is there's no back-relief on them. They work as well as grinding a drill bit with no relief. I guess they "work" if all you want to do is heat up the end of a rod. Total waste of money; inserted directly into the trash. I like the concept, might end up being a POTD to made something using some carbide inserts. At least it was only around $5.
Problem is the cutting edge is not proud of the meat of the tool.
My hope was to either bandsaw or bolt-cut threaded rod and clean up the ends. No go with this POC.
M12 1/2" drill. I have a few 3/8" drive but no 1/2", tired of dragging a cord. Got it for around $65 off eBay.
Frivolous eBay purchase of a bunch of 10-24 thread-forming taps. The lot was $0.99 plus $9 shipping. I've had pretty good luck with thread-forming taps, but probably won't wear these out in my lifetime.
A number of my project involve cutting 16, 18 or 20 gauge sheet metal. I like having at least 1 1/2 teeth in contact with the work to keep from hammering the blade. I have some 1/4" 32 tpi stock, but usually have a 1/2" blade on my DoAll band saw. Picked up about 90' of 1/2" 32 tpi stock so I can swap to a really fine blade without having to change the saw's blade guides. Somewhere around $30 off eBay or ~$4 per 10' blade.
I've got a Harbor Freight 7x12 horizontal band saw which takes 3/4" x 93" blades. Found a coil 100' coil of 3/4" 14-tpi stock off eBay for $30 including shipping. Should be a lifetime supply. I'd prefer bi-metal, but this roll will make up 12 blades for less than the cost of 1 ready-made blade.
My DoAll's blade welder can go up to 1" though the widest I'd welded was 1/2". The only adjustment is current (?) through a pot. I usually "develop" the weld by starting with 2" pieces of blade stock, just easier to handle.
I don't know what's proper for blade position when welding blades. My preference is to put the teeth against the stop instead of the back of the blade. Doing it this way keeps my fingers off the teeth when pushing the blade up to the stops. I pull the weld lever to do the heavy work, then hit the anneal button several times to anneal the blade. Remove the blade, dress it on the blade grinder, then re-anneal (annealing below).
I figure if the blade weld doesn't snap when coiled into a "three-sie", it'll hold fine on the larger diameter wheels. No issues on the DoAll welding 3/4" wide stock.
Thanks for looking, Bruce