What Did You Buy Today?

Badabinski said:
Clough42 got me... I bought one of these on Saturday, and it just showed up today. I have my first print running now. This thing really is massive!

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It's a Qidi I Fast dual extruder printer. I'm primarily interested in printing ABS, Nylon, and Polycarbonate, so a heated build environment is kind of a requirement.

Edit: here's a silent video of it printing:

The printer isn't particularly loud, but my phone tries to "zoom" the audio when I zoom the video, which makes the video intolerably loud.
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Me too :) Clough42 rules...
 
Blade guard with riving knife and anti kickback pawls for the tablesaw. Recently had an accident that made me decide it's time to stop pressing my luck.
 

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I got a $10 dry erase board from Staples and hung it solidly under the DRO tray, so I can actually write firmly on it. The marker is stuck through a hole to the upper right of the board. It’s magnetic, so I can keep notes and whatnot in front of me…I think this is going to help a lot as right now it’s post-it notes and sketchpads on the bench behind me.

The drawing on there is sort of a fake, I just put it there to test the board out, but I made those parts yesterday.

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Snagged this basically new Makita angle grinder for $60.
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Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
erikmannie said:
I bought 3 coin batteries for my Miller autodarkening welding hoods. The batteries in these 2 helmets have been dead for a while.

I have a very cheap autodarkening Lincoln electric welding hood that requires no battery (it is solar powered). The Lincoln helmet gets chosen about 90% of the time because it always works!
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I have to replace my Miller batteries about once a year.
 
BGHansen said:
Looks like yours has camlocks for clamping the blade which would be a very nice feature. Mine is on a 1948 16" ML and uses screws to tighten the clamps. Not bad, but not as nice as yours. I don't know if there's a proper way of setting the blades into the welder, but I've found setting the teeth at the base of the clamps works fine. It's easier on my fingers to push the blade ends up against the stop by pushing on the back of the blade instead of on the teeth.

One "quaint" feature on the anneal switch is the ETCH feature. There was a "pen" available with a copper tip. Its lead was clamped to the LH jaw. You'd push down on the ANNEAL button and swing the lever below the switch to hold the momentary ANNEAL switch in. That made the tip of the pen hot. A blade or anything conductive could be set on the table (ground) and etched with the pen.

I attached a copy of the wiring diagram from my saw's welder. Yeah, looks like crap. Well, it is a 74-year old saw!

Bruce
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While cleaning and adjusting my welder, I also found that putting the teeth against the back of the clamp worked much better on my test welds. Funny part is that I was taught as an apprentice to do it the other way around! I have some light weight mechanics gloves with rubberized palms that I use to handle the blade with, much easier on my hands.

As an apprentice, we would etch die blocks with the etching pen. really nothing more than a piece of copper with an insulated handle on a cable. I have been thinking about making one for my welder.
 
brino said:
I see that the guard was included. Good!
There have been some nasty photos lately in the goofs and blunders thread; not for the squeamish!

Brian
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Definitely! I bought another used 6" Makita that didn't have a guard thinking that I'd be able to buy a replacement. Nope, no longer available. :( Another item on the project list...
 
I will open the beast up and adjust as much as I can. Right now it has no problem blasting through 1/2" saw blades. I am having problems with the jaws being very dirty and grimey. Some one parked it under a bench grinder for years. I woud like to take them apart to clean but they must come apart from the back and the screws have no slots on the front. Manual says 6000 amps:eek:.I would like to make custom jaws making it a rod and bar welder.
 
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