What Did You Buy Today?

[Ianagos]

Corona sale part 2:

A nice 84cm (33”) precision edge in excellent condition.

The precision surfaces look scraped and the sides ground. Can anybody confirm that?

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Doesn’t look like any scraping I’ve ever seen. Looks like some sort decorative flaking possibly.

 

[Weldo]

Bought more stuff! Every month my credit card rolls over on the 6th and I go kinda low key crazy with tool buying.

2" indicator! I made a holder to indicate off my lathe carriage over on the quarantine projects thread. I figured why not a 2" travel indicator?




Finally got me a set of telescoping bore gauges! This set say "made in the USA" but the quality is not great. They are very crunchy and sticky though to b fair they are used. Luckily This Old Tony recently put out a video on this very subject so I now have the unenviable task of disassembling/deburring/oiling/reassembling each and every one of these gauges. This set had a double for some reason. From the left, the second and fourth are the same.




And I picked up this cool wall chart from ebay seller "littlelocos". It has SFPM for any diameter of work for the 10" and 12" Atlas lathe. Here's the link to it, here



So far for RPM I've just been wingin' it. I've don't think I've ever even run my lathe in high range! Looking forward to playing around with this.

 

[Dhal22]

I have spent over 1000 hours welding, and I cannot even make a consistently handsome bead. I can consistently produce a sound weld, but it is nothing that I would photograph and post online. It must take well over 1000 hours of practice.

The key to making a beautiful TIG bead seems to be 100% consistency (arc length, travel speed, torch angle, amount of filler rod added per dip, filler rod angle, keeping the filler rod in the shielding gas at all times, and a steady hand). Near 100% cleanliness is a given. Using a quality vs. cheap import gas lens will eliminate some frustration.

I have concentrated on cleanliness and penetration. I like to weld hot and fast in order to minimize the HAZ. When I fabricate something, the welds are structurally sound, but I almost always grind down my embarrassing welds.

Now in order to not be off topic I just bought a 11 lb. roll of .035" ER70S-6 roll of MIG wire. It was $30.07 delivered.

Don't know what my welding skills would look like now but I welded a lot as a kid. Took shop classes in highschool because I already knew how to weld, ended up welder of the year 3 times until my younger brother took the title from me when I was a senior. He still giggles about that (and is a better welder).

 

[mattthemuppet2]

bought a toolbox from a retired machine shop QC guy. He bought them from a machinist at the company but ended up never using them. I originally went there to buy a couple of mics he had posted, but he made me an offer I literally couldn't refuse so i came home with the lot.

Kennedy 526 machinists box


Starrett back plunger DTI


some neat reference books/ charts


a complete 0-6" mic set. There was originally a 3-4" Starrett mic in there, but I bought a Mitutoyo 3-4" on eBay for not much money so it would be a complete set. Silly, but you know..





as well as the Starrett 1.5-8" bore mic in one of the above pics and a Mitutoyo B telescoping bore gauge.

All for $100! Plus I sold my old 0-6" set of mics (mix of import and Mitutoyo/ Japanese made) to a friend for $50

I also found this pressure washer on the side of the road. Massively overfilled with oil to the point that it was dripping out of the exhaust. tore it down, cleaned everything, put a new filter on and filled it to the correct level with oil and it started 1st try. Changed the oil in the pump and that works great too. Just need to buy a hose/ wand and I'm good to go - will probably have ~$50 into it by the time I'm done.

 

[devils4ever]

View attachment 324467

That's the same exact Kennedy box that I bought new about 15+ years ago. I think it over $500 now.

 

[Buffalo21]

A 33# spool of .035” Lincoln L-56 mig wire, Hypertherm PM45XP consumables, 2 new Metabo “Flathead” 5” grinders, (40) of the 4-1/2” x 40 grit Plantex flap wheel And (200) of the Walter 4-1/2” x .045” zip wheels

 

[mattthemuppet2]

That's the same exact Kennedy box that I bought new about 15+ years ago. I think it over $500 now.

yes, the funny thing is I didn't really want the tool box as it was large and I don't have much space. It was only after I got it home that I realised what it was. I made some space for it

 

[BGHansen]

POTD was making my main workbench a little easier to use. My dad used to say, "don't do standing up what you can do sitting down". Never thought much about it until I hit 60. Sure is nice to sit at the bench and work instead of standing all day. My main workbench is a 6' maple-topped bench from a local school that shut down their shop. It came with a couple of banks of lockers which span 5+ feet of the benchtop.


Love the bench which has storage lockers on a 3/4" sheet of plywood. The "casters" underneath are 1" steel ball material movers which gave a low-profile to the floor, though they don't roll nearly as smoothly as regular casters.



I didn't show any of the work, but pulled one of the lockers (everything is in the drawers from a previous POTD) and used Creform tubing to make up some legs to support the end of the bench. I can now sit and draw or fiddle instead of standing all of the time.



Thanks for looking, Bruce

 

[BGHansen]

POTD was making an arbor for a gear cutter (future project on my Tormach). The ID of the gear cutter measured to a touch over 0.625", so probably 16 mm.

Cutter ID measured 0.628" or 16 mm.



Chucked up what happened to be a 7/8" OD 1018 steel round. Faced, center drilled and set up to turn between centers. Plan was to turn a shank to 0.500" so the arbor could be held in an ER20 collet in a TTS tool holder.


Faced, center drilled for turning between centers


Turned around 3" to 0.500". I usually go with a TNMG (or similar) tool when turning between centers and I'm getting close to the live center. The RH TNMG tool sets parallel to the surface of the center, so you can dial in pretty close (if you need to).


Parting



Flipped the arbor and faced, center drilled and tap drilled for a 1/4"-20 threaded hole. It was about this point when I realized I hadn't turned the shoulder for the 16 mm cutter yet. . . So, changed to a parting tool and turned to 0.628".


Flipped and faced


Center drill


1/4"-20 tap drill


Cutting the shoulder for the gear cutter. . .


Checked fit with the gear cutter, it sets about 0.010" beyond the threaded face of the arbor, so a simple washer will clamp it into place


Using a spiral-flute tap to thread the hole




Next was making a clamp washer for the bottom of the arbor. Used the same 7/8" 1018 stock as the arbor. Chucked, faced, center drilled, drilled a 1/4" clearance hole for the clamp bolt, countersunk the hole for a flat-head screw, chamfered the edge and parted. Flipped and faced the parted surface.

Little tip here from experience. When I part on my Clausing lathe (which pretty much exclusively has a 5C collet chuck mounted}, I always run a file over the parted edge. Parting can plow material at the start of the cut and leave a raised lip. Good luck slipping the material back into a collet after parting unless you remove the lip.


Faced the clamp washer


Center drill


1/4" clearance hole


Countersinking a hole with a 6-flute countersink. I've had GREAT success with these are <200 RPM speeds. Lots of squealing at >500 RPM


Chamfering


Parting


Running a file over the freshly parted stock to remove the burr from parting


Flipped and faced the clamp washer


All of the parts


Assembled



I purposely made the arbor too long as it's easier to remove excess material then add it. Still have some other work to do before it gets used. I have a project in the works cutting helical gears. That will require rotating the work as the table moves. I have a universal dividing head which I could mount on the Bridgeport, figure out the gear combination needed for the proper rotation with translation, but going to try it first on the Tormach with a 4th axis. Seems like it'll be easier to mount my 4th axis on an angle plate at a 45, then program the X/Z/A axis moves. More to follow . . .

Thanks for looking,

Bruce

 

[hman]

Matt: "All for $100!" ... and then the pressure washer!

DOUBLE SUCKAGE!!!!!!