What Did You Buy Today?

yota said:
hate rattle can paint. here's a Rockwell I shot.

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No matter how clean and acetoned the rattle can stuff chips off with ease. I may start a paint thread. One question I have is...before hauling the boat project to the dump (never again) I purchased a gallon of high end bilge paint. I think it's one part epoxy. I was thinking, a paint designed to hold up well in a nasty greasy oily boat bilge might make a good paint for a metalworking machine? I have a 4hp oiless compressor (California Air 14cfm) and decent quality spray gun I bought for that project.
 
coolidge said:
No matter how clean and acetoned the rattle can stuff chips off with ease. I may start a paint thread. One question I have is...before hauling the boat project to the dump (never again) I purchased a gallon of high end bilge paint. I think it's one part epoxy. I was thinking, a paint designed to hold up well in a nasty greasy oily boat bilge might make a good paint for a metalworking machine? I have a 4hp oiless compressor (California Air 14cfm) and decent quality spray gun I bought for that project.
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when cleaning with acetone, you need to make sure that the part is room temp. acetone super cools the part from fast evaporation.
So don't just paint immediately after. give it a few minutes.
I prefer paint preps, or mineral spirits as a final before painting. That doesn't mean I don't use acetone, but I do acetone in initial cleaning mostly after mineral spirits. I am down to my last little bit of my old Sikkens M600 (paint prep).. going to have to bite the bullet and find a new favorite.
 
coolidge said:
No matter how clean and acetoned the rattle can stuff chips off with ease.
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Based on my experience, I disagree. Rattle can paint can be very durable and look nearly as nice as spraying with a gun. I ran a professional spray booth and was the licensed Paint Spray Supervisor (Required in NYC) for 20 years when I had the custom woodworking business. I sprayed just about everything sprayable, lacquers, catalyzed urethanes, epoxies polyesters, oil based water-based, paints stains, varnishes, etc. I've spent days in the spray room for some jobs, wearing a Tyvek suit and full face respirator. Those were some of the most miserable days of my professional life... I never want to be in a spray room, ever again.
So now I'm a rattle can guy, no mixing, no thinning and no cleaning up the equipment. I've not had any issues with chipping or unreasonable durability.
That being said, Yes, gun applied spray finishes can be superior to anything you can produce with a rattle can, but there is a price to pay...
 
BGHansen said:
The debris field "was" an Orpington chicken.
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The origin of which being the town where I grew up!

There's even a pub there called the "The Buff", where I used to drink as a youngster (yours looked to be a white, mind you).
 
Eddyde said:
Based on my experience, I disagree. Rattle can paint can be very durable and look nearly as nice as spraying with a gun. I ran a professional spray booth and was the licensed Paint Spray Supervisor (Required in NYC) for 20 years when I had the custom woodworking business. I sprayed just about everything sprayable, lacquers, catalyzed urethanes, epoxies polyesters, oil based water-based, paints stains, varnishes, etc. I've spent days in the spray room for some jobs, wearing a Tyvek suit and full face respirator. Those were some of the most miserable days of my professional life... I never want to be in a spray room, ever again.
So now I'm a rattle can guy, no mixing, no thinning and no cleaning up the equipment. I've not had any issues with chipping or unreasonable durability.
That being said, Yes, gun applied spray finishes can be superior to anything you can produce with a rattle can, but there is a price to pay...
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I've done only rather small spray jobs (probably about 9 or 10 enclosures for flight SIM/space sim button boxes) and only with rattle can paint.

I'd guess that the quality and durability of the rattle can finish would be even more down to prep, than with spray gun painting. Also, I'm thinking that you rarely get better than you pay for with rattle can paint.

Would those be reasonable guesses?
 
Eddyde said:
Based on my experience, I disagree. Rattle can paint can be very durable and look nearly as nice as spraying with a gun. I ran a professional spray booth and was the licensed Paint Spray Supervisor (Required in NYC) for 20 years when I had the custom woodworking business. I sprayed just about everything sprayable, lacquers, catalyzed urethanes, epoxies polyesters, oil based water-based, paints stains, varnishes, etc. I've spent days in the spray room for some jobs, wearing a Tyvek suit and full face respirator. Those were some of the most miserable days of my professional life... I never want to be in a spray room, ever again.
So now I'm a rattle can guy, no mixing, no thinning and no cleaning up the equipment. I've not had any issues with chipping or unreasonable durability.
That being said, Yes, gun applied spray finishes can be superior to anything you can produce with a rattle can, but there is a price to pay...
Click to expand...
sounds like you have a lot more experience than I do with spraying. biggest problem with rattle cans to me is I can't add a hardening agent. I mostly do automotive polyurethanes but when I shoot alkyd enamels, I always use a hardener. and usually, a small amount of Penetrol. I don't find rattle can paint to be anywhere near as durable as other products I use.
 
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