What Did You Buy Today?

I got my Shars thread mic, my Reilang R003-252 MERKUR precision oiler from Germany, and a bunch of 12L14 steel and 6061 Aluminum round bar stock. All came this week. Surprisingly, the oiler from Germany came faster than some of the other items shipped domestically! I need to file the tip on the oiler a bit more to fit my PM25 mill ball oilers.

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I usually single-point thread of the lathe with inserted tooling. I've been watching Aloris No. 8 threading tools for quite a while on eBay which usually go for around $125. MSC had them on sale for $94 with free shipping so I became an owner. I'll try it on some various materials once I get the Tormach enclosure finished and report back how it works.

Bruce


My first genuine Aloris tool holder!
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One cap screw holds the HSS threading tool in place. Replacements are around $40 though there's a lot of steel there!
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Two set screws on the side for adjusting (my assumption) the tilt of the cutting tool to give some side relief
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I for one will be more than interested in your report on the Aloris threading tool. I have a couple of them and don't really care for them. In some situations they seem a bit bulky and clumsy. I do use them on occasions, but much prefer the standard HSS tool ground to a 60* point. Maybe it's just an old dog and a new trick syndrome.
 
Question. I need to double flare a stainless steel 3/8 tube (0.030 wall thickness). I have tried two flaring tools, the cheap one you can find on Amazon (two bars wing nutted together), and the pliers form. Neither works. What would you folks recommend for double flaring stainless?

joe

I'm a little late to the party on this subject, but as mentioned to do a double flare you'll need the proper tool. Over the years I've done many hundreds of double flares on copper, stainless, and even hard aluminum tube. I use this exact tool from Snap On. Mine is probably in the neighborhood of 50 years old, yet still makes quality flares.


If you look closely at the instructions in picture 4 it gives the technique and sequence to make a proper double flare. Even though the instructions are for "thin wall steel, aluminum and soft copper" it can be used for just about any material you can think of. If you can secure the tube tight enough in the holder the tool is strong enough to form the flare. The key is the holder. It has serrations that dig into the tube and hold it in place. If the serrations get damaged or dull by tubing slipping through them it will not hold the tube securely, and it will be all but impossible to make a good double flare.
 
I for one will be more than interested in your report on the Aloris threading tool. I have a couple of them and don't really care for them. In some situations they seem a bit bulky and clumsy. I do use them on occasions, but much prefer the standard HSS tool ground to a 60* point. Maybe it's just an old dog and a new trick syndrome.
I'm curious too. There are lots of supporters and detractors out there. I'm guessing that at a minimum I should grind a bit of back rake and side rake on the top. The side relief is adjustable with the two set screws and end relief is built in. I will say that the finish of the holder is very smooth, but the cap screw holes had crud in them. I couldn't run the cap screw in with an Allen wrench with the short leg in my hand. Ran a tap in and pulled out some shavings.

Bruce


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Purchase last week - An old, possibly WW2 vintage CQR toolchest.
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I snaffled this off eBay this lunchtime for the princely sum of £32. A bargain I think. :)
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Please excuse the tape measure - these are pics from the listing. Hoping the case and the base of the level will clean up. No idea what number this is, but from the pics it’s 12” long...
 
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