What Did You Buy Today?

[WobblyHand]

You must like her a lot. You aren't kidding that's a lot of boring.

 

[Dhal22]

I have a pair of those, Empire brand.
I can’t ever get them to clamp effectively. What’s the secret?


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Dunno, I saw them used recently on a machining video on YouTube so bought a couple. I was fiddling with them and agree on what's the secret.

 

[WobblyHand]

Only thing I can think of is using a micro-tommy bar to actually tighten them. Just have to be careful not to over torque the screws. They are sold as toolmaker vises, so somehow they can be tightened... I've used mine to hold stuff level so it's easier to maintain a constant angle when honing a tool bit. In a video I watched, one guy used a similar vise and used a screwdriver through the hole to tighten it.

 

[JohnG]

I didn't really need this drill press. I've worked with a little Delta bench top drill for a long time, but I have thought a bigger drill might be handy. I came across this Boice Crane drill in an online auction of a school shop. Boice Crane made lighter machines, and they were popular with schools. This Swedish made press, possibly a Solbegra, doesn't fit that pattern. It has a gear driven spindle, no belts, like a large factory machine for low spindle speed and high torque without slippage. It has a 2 speed motor, 4 speed gearbox, and a #3 Morse taper that matches the tailstock on my lathe.
I've cleaned it up but I don't think I'll paint it. I just need to get the right electrical plug on it to try it out.

 

[Bi11Hudson]

I have a pair of those, Empire brand.
I can’t ever get them to clamp effectively. What’s the secret?

I have been cobbling those together for ages, since I was a kid, I guess. I now have a dozen or better, in different sizes fron 1-1/2 to 5 inches long. Mostly factory built, many different brands. I do have a few made with aluminium key stock so solder won't stick to them. (Al key stock from small engine shops) My usage may or may not be correct, but works for me for what I do. They are also used by cabinet builders; called "Jorgenson" clamps, I think.
=>
Holding one screw and rotate the clamp with the other until it's just a RCH larger than the surface to be clamped. Place the clamp and tighten the [forward] screw so that the clamp is slightly tapered toward the work. Just the ends touching. Experience will determine the optimal spacing. . .
<=
These do not hold as well as a "C" clamp, not meant to. But, they don't mark the work, which in my case is usually a light Zamak or plastic casting. I find them most useful for holding cumbersome pieces or odd shapes in a heavy (6") bench vise. Occasionally for holding something (usually small) that I have trouble holding on to.(Age, shakey hands) Or don't want the paint on my fingers.

They are made for "die makers", whatever that is. I use them most of the time as "self closing" needle nose pliars. Another useful tool I have is spring loaded hair clippies. I don't know the proper name. Aluminium is most useful as solder won't stick to it. But they are getting hard(impossible) to find. So I make do with nickle plated steel for most jobs. Such things as gas tank floats are made out of plastic these days so most of my usage for soldering is "old school". If I even do it. . . . .

.

 

[7milesup]

I didn't really need this drill press. I've worked with a little Delta bench top drill for a long time, but I have thought a bigger drill might be handy. I came across this Boice Crane drill in an online auction of a school shop. Boice Crane made lighter machines, and they were popular with schools. This Swedish made press, possibly a Solbegra, doesn't fit that pattern. It has a gear driven spindle, no belts, like a large factory machine for low spindle speed and high torque without slippage. It has a 2 speed motor, 4 speed gearbox, and a #3 Morse taper that matches the tailstock on my lathe.
I've cleaned it up but I don't think I'll paint it. I just need to get the right electrical plug on it to try it out.

View attachment 320759

That is very cool John. I did not know though that there were schools up by Hurly. Wolves and woods...

(I'm just yankin' yer chain)

 

[hman]

Ordered a few goodies not that long ago. Got two of three today.

1. Inspired by the posts in https://www.hobby-machinist.com/threads/riten-vs-royal-centers.83397/#post-734016 I decided to upgrade to a better live center for my 12x24. Bought the Grizzly SB1282 set. Specs sounded good, and it's made in Taiwan. Seems pretty durn smooth.


2. Ordered a GOOD dial caliper - a Mitutoyo from Amazon. The actual vendor was listed as Travers Tool, so I felt confident it was going to be the genuine article.


(3. Still awaiting a Mit electronic caliper, also from Amazon/Travers. Should also be genuine.)

 

[Dhal22]

I have been cobbling those together for ages, since I was a kid, I guess. I now have a dozen or better, in different sizes fron 1-1/2 to 5 inches long. Mostly factory built, many different brands. I do have a few made with aluminium key stock so solder won't stick to them. (Al key stock from small engine shops) My usage may or may not be correct, but works for me for what I do. They are also used by cabinet builders; called "Jorgenson" clamps, I think.
=>
Holding one screw and rotate the clamp with the other until it's just a RCH larger than the surface to be clamped. Place the clamp and tighten the [forward] screw so that the clamp is slightly tapered toward the work. Just the ends touching. Experience will determine the optimal spacing. . .
<=
These do not hold as well as a "C" clamp, not meant to. But, they don't mark the work, which in my case is usually a light Zamak or plastic casting. I find them most useful for holding cumbersome pieces or odd shapes in a heavy (6") bench vise. Occasionally for holding something (usually small) that I have trouble holding on to.(Age, shakey hands) Or don't want the paint on my fingers.

They are made for "die makers", whatever that is. I use them most of the time as "self closing" needle nose pliars. Another useful tool I have is spring loaded hair clippies. I don't know the proper name. Aluminium is most useful as solder won't stick to it. But they are getting hard(impossible) to find. So I make do with nickle plated steel for most jobs. Such things as gas tank floats are made out of plastic these days so most of my usage for soldering is "old school". If I even do it. . . . .

.

Don't hear the rch term often. : )

 

[Dhal22]

Found this at an antique store recently. It's the plumber in me I suppose, I have collected many old plumbing tools.

 

[Aukai]

Level?