What did I do? Bridgeport purchase

[Charles scozzari]

I dont think any open eye is rated for lifting and no way I'd trust a menards bought piece for lifting like that. Get yourself a proper forged lifting eye intended for such. -Be safe.

Best,
Kelly

In a pinch, weld it closed.

 

[Eddyde]

In a pinch, weld it closed.

Even then, I'd be sure to be clear of the load incase the eyebolt snapped. Grade 2 hardware is not meant for lifting. When rigging fails, it does so without warning, none of that "Hollywood" creaking and groaning while the eyebolt slowly stretches open or the rope unravels. It's like snap Instantly and the damage is done! Gravity and mass have no mercy...

 

[Charles scozzari]

Even then, I'd be sure to be clear of the load incase the eyebolt snapped. Grade 2 hardware is not meant for lifting. When rigging fails, it does so without warning, none of that "Hollywood" creaking and groaning while the eyebolt slowly stretches open or the rope unravels. It's like snap Instantly and the damage is done! Gravity and mass have no mercy...

Whats worse is in general, and not meant for Defender92, some think they'll get out of harms way before it's too late. It just ain't so.

 

[Mill Lee farm]

Late to the party, but watch all of H&W Machine Repairs awesome rebuild videos!

How To:

H&W Machine Repair and Rebuilding Technical Support Are you working on your Bridgeport and having trouble with disassembly or reassembly? Then this page may be just what you need. In this section of our website, you’ll find “How To” instructions as well as a list of parts you might need to...

machinerypartsdepot.com

Then you will know more about ‘how’ the head works, what to expect and what to look for.

Great stuff and very thorough

 

[Charles scozzari]

Even then, I'd be sure to be clear of the load incase the eyebolt snapped. Grade 2 hardware is not meant for lifting. When rigging fails, it does so without warning, none of that "Hollywood" creaking and groaning while the eyebolt slowly stretches open or the rope unravels. It's like snap Instantly and the damage is done! Gravity and mass have no mercy...

After I thought about It, welding actually may make the situation worse by becoming brittle and snapping. Bottom line is use the right hook to begin with.

 

[Eddyde]

After I thought about It, welding actually may make the situation worse by becoming brittle and snapping. Bottom line is use the right hook to begin with.

Excellent point!

 

[BGHansen]

Late to the party but it looks great! The only thing I noticed was the handle for the ram was missing. Score!

You'll get over the "intimidation" of size rather quickly. My first mill was a Grizzly round column mill/drill, then picked up a Jet JVM-830 (small knee mill like your Clausing). My go to was the Jet for a month or two until I got more comfortable with the BP. I probably haven't turned my Jet on in a year.

Bruce

 

[Defender92]

Late to the party but it looks great! The only thing I noticed was the handle for the ram was missing. Score!

You'll get over the "intimidation" of size rather quickly. My first mill was a Grizzly round column mill/drill, then picked up a Jet JVM-830 (small knee mill like your Clausing). My go to was the Jet for a month or two until I got more comfortable with the BP. I probably haven't turned my Jet on in a year.

Bruce

My original plan was to have a shop and still be able to park my Jeep in the garage. Before I knew it there was no room for my Jeep. So I figured why not get a real mill! As long as I keep a spot open for my wife’s car I’m good.

Yep! I noticed the ram lever just before bed yesterday. I was able to work the broken bit of lever out. I stuck a 3/8 bolt in it and discovered my ram is seized up. I can get it to barely move but end up bending the makeshift bolt “handles” in the process. After I get my VFD and if my head is good I’m going to buy this upgraded ram pinion that uses a wrench instead. But not until I know my mill is a keeper because this pinion is about $150 shipped.

I also discovered my table has some play. I narrowed it down to a loose Y axis gib. I can’t get the gib tight enough to stop the play. I’m pretty sure my gib has more adjustment but the screw just won’t go. If I half tighten the lock screw it eliminates the play and my table has nice even travel. So I need to figure out what is stopping my gib from tightening. I really don’t think it needs a shim but then again I’m not sure.

I also picked up the proper eye bolt from Grainger today

 

[matthewsx]

Just a technicality, but you only shocked yourself. By definition electrocution is always fatal….

Congrats on the new machine, I’ll have to avoid HGR when I get back to Michigan for sure.

John

 

[Shotgun]

Yep! I noticed the ram lever just before bed yesterday. I was able to work the broken bit of lever out. I stuck a 3/8 bolt in it and discovered my ram is seized up. I can get it to barely move but end up bending the makeshift bolt “handles” in the process. After I get my VFD and if my head is good I’m going to buy this upgraded ram pinion that uses a wrench instead. But not until I know my mill is a keeper because this pinion is about $150 shipped.

I suggest you be patient with the pinion replacement. My ram was "locked up when I first got it. It seems that these heads are rarely moved, but always heavily oiled. The oil dries up over time, and with such a large surface area, locks the ram in place.

I wiped the ram ways down with tiki torch oil (kerosene, but not quite as smelly). That got the ram to barely move. Wiped it down again. In a few days, I could move it several inches. Wiped it down again. In a few days, I had full travel. Went back a forth a couple times, then applied fresh oil.