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Well just bought a Sheldon TRB-S56
- Thread starter byrdman
- Start date
- Joined
- Oct 18, 2016
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The correct way to determine that is to measure from the top of the compound to the centerline of the spindle, and
compare that measurement to tool post manufacturers recommendations.
Shars online catalog indicates that AXA tool posts are suitable for that dimension to be .6 to 1.75", and BXA for a range
of .7 to 2.2". Other manufacturers will indicate a range of swing sizes, though that is less accurate. The other consideration
is that AXA and BXA toolholders can accommodate different size tools.
It looks though your swing is 11", so I'm guessing you'll need an AXA, but you should take the measurement and check.
- Joined
- Feb 18, 2016
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- 451
Judging by the photos I would think it would be extremely simple. Potentially just four or five bolts. Two at the base of the tail end of the bed and two (or possibly three) at the base of the headstock. Of course you'd need to remove the power belts too. And then you couldn't run it on a bench since the motor would still be in the base cabinet.
The hard part is lifting the lathe up so you can pull the cabinet out from under it. Do you have a way to lift the lathe?
Why are you doing this? Do you want to clean and paint the cabinet?
As long as you have a dependable method to lift the lathe off the cabinet it should be easy to remove. If it were me I'd remove the tailstock and carriage and lead screw first. Then you can clean up and paint the lathe itself too.
I can't imagine this lathe needing to be rebuilt other than for cosmetic purposes and paint. So I personally wouldn't take anything more apart than I actually needed to. But removing the carriage and leadscrew shouldn't be a big deal. It's probably best to have the leadscrew out of the way if you're going to be lifting up the bed anyway. Just be sure not to twist the bed when lifting. Make sure everything is well balanced and all your straps or chains are secure and aren't going to shift position during the lift. Don't just assume that they'll stay where you had originally placed them. Make sure they are anchored in place so they can't move.
I'm assuming you'll also be removing the chuck before you lift it. Take as much weight off the headstock as possible. Any access doors, etc.
Finally, make sure you have it attached to your crane or chain hoists in a way that assures the headstock is supported. Otherwise it will have a tendency to want to flip over. And you certainly don't want that to happen.
The hard part is lifting the lathe up so you can pull the cabinet out from under it. Do you have a way to lift the lathe?
Why are you doing this? Do you want to clean and paint the cabinet?
As long as you have a dependable method to lift the lathe off the cabinet it should be easy to remove. If it were me I'd remove the tailstock and carriage and lead screw first. Then you can clean up and paint the lathe itself too.
I can't imagine this lathe needing to be rebuilt other than for cosmetic purposes and paint. So I personally wouldn't take anything more apart than I actually needed to. But removing the carriage and leadscrew shouldn't be a big deal. It's probably best to have the leadscrew out of the way if you're going to be lifting up the bed anyway. Just be sure not to twist the bed when lifting. Make sure everything is well balanced and all your straps or chains are secure and aren't going to shift position during the lift. Don't just assume that they'll stay where you had originally placed them. Make sure they are anchored in place so they can't move.
I'm assuming you'll also be removing the chuck before you lift it. Take as much weight off the headstock as possible. Any access doors, etc.
Finally, make sure you have it attached to your crane or chain hoists in a way that assures the headstock is supported. Otherwise it will have a tendency to want to flip over. And you certainly don't want that to happen.
- Joined
- Feb 18, 2016
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- 451
It won't fit in the truck whole?
My thoughts on this (and trust me I have no idea what I'm talking about). If the bed of the truck is long enough what I would do is first remove that heavy chuck from the lathe. Remove the tailstock. Run the table up as close to the head stock as it will go and lock it down. If you do leave the tailstock on the lathe also run it up as close to the headstock as possible too and lock it down as well.
Then put the lathe on the truck with the headstock to the front of the bed so that all the weight is just behind the cab in the center of the truck.
Then strap it to the corners of the bed so it can't fall over.
I'm not sure I understand what's to be gained by removing the lathe from the cabinet? How are you going to fit both pieces in the bed of the truck? Would they fit side-by-side? Is so you could certainly do that way.
The lathe should detach from the cabinet quite easily.
In any case, whatever you do best of luck!
Another quick suggestion just cause I thought of it. You could drive down without a trailer, and then get a U-haul trailer for the return trip. That way you would only need to tow the trailer one-way.
Anyway, good luck with the move!
If it's close to my house I'll go pick it up for you. But then you might have a hard time getting it back from me.
That's once nice lathe I think. I like those older models. That's back when they made things for real. It's worth driving 1000 miles to pick it up IMHO.
My thoughts on this (and trust me I have no idea what I'm talking about). If the bed of the truck is long enough what I would do is first remove that heavy chuck from the lathe. Remove the tailstock. Run the table up as close to the head stock as it will go and lock it down. If you do leave the tailstock on the lathe also run it up as close to the headstock as possible too and lock it down as well.
Then put the lathe on the truck with the headstock to the front of the bed so that all the weight is just behind the cab in the center of the truck.
Then strap it to the corners of the bed so it can't fall over.
I'm not sure I understand what's to be gained by removing the lathe from the cabinet? How are you going to fit both pieces in the bed of the truck? Would they fit side-by-side? Is so you could certainly do that way.
The lathe should detach from the cabinet quite easily.
In any case, whatever you do best of luck!
Another quick suggestion just cause I thought of it. You could drive down without a trailer, and then get a U-haul trailer for the return trip. That way you would only need to tow the trailer one-way.
Anyway, good luck with the move!
If it's close to my house I'll go pick it up for you. But then you might have a hard time getting it back from me.
That's once nice lathe I think. I like those older models. That's back when they made things for real. It's worth driving 1000 miles to pick it up IMHO.
- Joined
- Sep 1, 2018
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- 676
My 11" KQ model Sheldon uses a axa..I think you have a nice lathe..you can separate without a lot of work but I would move as is if you have the means..trailer might be easier to load and unload.it is somewhat heavy for its size and VERY top heavy..you're not to far from me.i'm in wake forest.good luck.be safe.
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- Dec 25, 2011
- Messages
- 10,552
byrdman.
I'm not particularly familian with Sheldon lathes. And although I run Downloads most of the time, I don't know whether there is anything there on the 11" KQ or not. But in any case, the Downloads section costs us several hundred dollars per month, mostly for storage fees. Consequently it is restricted to Donors. There are several Donor levels, depending upon payment amount. The minimum fee (which gets you access to Downloads) is $10.00 per year.
- Joined
- Feb 18, 2016
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- 451
Where is the download section? I'd like to download a manual for a Sheldon Sebastian B-6 lathe if you have one.
UPDATE: Never mind, I found the manual and downloaded it. And it's the right one for my model too. I've been looking all over the Internet for this manual and it was here the whole time and I didn't even know it.
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