Welding Repair,... Cast Iron?

I'd be more inclined to do it in a single pass. The second pass you will lose heat control trying to make the electrode flow like the previously deposited pass, plus you will have used flux (and the impurities it caught the first time) everywhere. Cast iron may be a PITA, but brazing is easy. Work a complete weld from one side to the other in one pass if you can.
 
If you can see the end of the crack, drill a 1/4" hole right at the very end to stop the crack from starting again...
 
I'd be more inclined to do it in a single pass. The second pass you will lose heat control trying to make the electrode flow like the previously deposited pass, plus you will have used flux (and the impurities it caught the first time) everywhere. Cast iron may be a PITA, but brazing is easy. Work a complete weld from one side to the other in one pass if you can.

There won't be any electrodes involved. I've decided to braze it with oxy-acetylene torch. I think a double pass will be fine. Although it may not be needed it all depends on how well it flows. Often times when I'm brazing with gas I find that it's useful to do a tinning pas first and then come back and do any structural filling on that tinned surface.

If you can see the end of the crack, drill a 1/4" hole right at the very end to stop the crack from starting again...

It's not clear precisely where the crack ends. Besides I really don't think that will be necessary in this particular case due to the geometry of the overall part and the type of stresses involved. Once I have this brazed up I don't think that crack is going to start back up again.
 
I’ve used nickel rods a couple of times on cast but tend to prefer the O/A brazing for cast iron. No matter what you use I’m guessing you’re going to have to clean it up in the lathe when finished since it appears that the round tube must fit into the other half of the vise?
 
I like your plan. Do you have access to a sandblaster? That might help get the entire crack chemically clean.
Robert
 
I’ve used nickel rods a couple of times on cast but tend to prefer the O/A brazing for cast iron. No matter what you use I’m guessing you’re going to have to clean it up in the lathe when finished since it appears that the round tube must fit into the other half of the vise?

I am thinking of cleaning this up in the lathe. If I can hold it. My lathe has a 17" swing so the swing is large enough. This jaw is only 10" across the largest diagonal. So it will fit in the lathe. I have a 6" 4-jaw chuck I think will hold it. I'm even thinking that I could make a temporary cap for the open end with a lip on it to slip in the open end and use a live center to hold that end. Then I'd be able to turn the whole thing down perfectly.

I'll probably do that. The other alternative would be to try to hand grind it with an angle grinder till I get it to just clear. That would certainly work, but wouldn't be as nice as actually turning it to true dimension.


I like your plan. Do you have access to a sandblaster? That might help get the entire crack chemically clean.
Robert

Yes, I have a small sand blaster that I can use to sandblast the crack before I braze it. Good idea. I'll do that. I don't think I'll be welding it today.
 
As a community service announcement, I gotta say this-
Nickel rod, aka "cast iron rod", comes in several flavors. One flavor is "machinable", and another is "non-machinable".
Believe me when I say that they mean it when they say "non-machinable". Dont ask me how I know:faint:
 
Thanks for the tip. If I ever mess with nickel rods I'll remember to ask which kind they are. I'd definately like to turn this down when finished. But that's clearly not going to be a problem at all using the brass rods I have. :grin:
 
Boy the welding and casting forum is slow. This thread is still at the top of the stack.

It's been 10 days since I posted this thread and I finally got around to brazing the vice.

I'm happy with the results, but they could have been better. To begin with I couldn't find my large welding tip. I could only find the small one. So I tried using the small one on the screw repair behind the vice jaw. First I heated the whole thing up over a wood fire. I don't know how hot it was but it was so hot I couldn't even hang onto it very long with brand new welding gloves on. I did manage to braze up the broken jaw screw hole. But it was going way to slow with that small tip, and I didn't like the way it was flowing. So when I moved on to welding up the crack I used my 4-burner cutting torch to braze with. :grin:

That worked way better. In fact it worked absolutely beautiful for the first half of the crack. The braze rod was getting sucked into the crack like a vacuum cleaner. Very good deep brazing. And the top of the brass was nice and flat, almost perfectly flush with the top surface. and not even sunken in. But then I had to stop and turn the piece in the vice to braze up the second half of the crack. I didn't stop for long only long enough to readjust the workpiece in the vice. But then I couldn't seem to get it hot enough to really suck in the brass after that. I tried to be patient and waiting for it to get as hot as I could get it, but despite my best attempts the whole rest of the brazing job was a real fight with trying to get the brass to flow nice. It tended to ball up and not want to wet out. I was having so much trouble I even stopped and hit the thing with a wire brush. But that didn't help.

I did manage to lay down some brass on the second half of the crack, and some places wetted-out better than others. Overall I'm ok with the finished brazing. The worst part of the crack took the brass really well. So that was the more important part I think. In any case, I'm going to let it be and move on to just cleaning it up and putting it back together.

This is the good side of the brazing job. Not sure what it looks like in the photo, but it looks really good in person.

Braze (1).JPG

This is the bad side of the brazing job. Can't see it very well with the sun shining on it. But it definitely looks amateur with a few balls above the surface. I just couldn't get those balls to wet in. It's not all bad, there were places where it flowed better than others. I'm thinking that it was because I was getting close to the massive vice head and that was sucking up all the heat? I think I could have done better if I could have found my bigger torch. Even my four burner cutting torch isn't all that hot, but it did work.

Braze (2).JPG

So now I'm ready for the clean up stage and the reassembly of the vice.

If I had done this for a customer I'd be ashamed to ask money for it. :grin:

Like I say, the first half was beautiful. Looked and felt professional. But the second half petered out and made me look like an idiot. I think it will hold though and that's good enough for me. I just blame it on the missing large torch.
 
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