WD 40 question or discovery

[flutedchamber]

I had a started gallon with about two quarts in the shop that hid itself in the corner. The gallon is thirty years old, no joke. I poured it into a plastic spray bottle and the liquid was yellowish and a bit thick and difficult to spray. I've used about half of it with zero problems, no rusting, no pitting, etc. What I DID find is that the liquid dries to a thick waxy coating that can be wiped off, but once it reaches it's dried state, will not run off. I use it for long term storage of milling cutters.

For it's whole life, the can has lived inside in a leak free building. It was subjected to summer heat above 100 degrees and winter cold down to single digits. Perhaps that did something to the liquid. The cap was tight on the can and did not leak.

 

[DMS]

I don't use a ton of the stuff, but have burned through a half dozen can's in my lifetime. Good till the last drop. Always ran out of WD-40 before I ran out of propellant. I'm in California, maybe the colder climates cause the separation?

 

[Jeff in Pa]

We use WD-40 at work, purchased by the case ( 4 x 1 gal cans). Works great for final cuts on aluminum and for light cuts on stainless steel if you can't use coolant ( customer rework ).

The best use I've found is for stoning the machine tables and fixtures for the mill. A good coating on the table and I saturate my 2x8 stone.


One like this, mine is 2" wide, 1" thick and 8" long with a 120 grit on one side and 240 grit on the other.
similar to part number 05179015 at www.mscdirect.com

 

[Alan Douglas]

The aerosol is composed of ~50% Stoddard solvent (a controlled-flash-point kerosene), ~15% petroleum oil (actually a paraffinic solvent-refined mineral oil), ~25% LPG (isobutane and propane), and <10% corrosion inhibitor. The propellant is of course not present in the bulk WD40, and is perhaps what has separated out.

 

[Harris Creek Central]

I don't know if I have ever had to deal with a spray can that is near the full capacity, however I have re-pressurized cans that have ran out of steam and you can still feel more liquid in the can. I have a pencil type nozzel for my air hose. I remove the spray nozzel from the spray bomb, open the air nozzel on the air hose, place this over the tube of the spray bomb and press down until you here the air enter the can. Just a short blast gives the can enough energy to get back to work. Replace the spray nozzel and away I go.

My compressor is small so I don't have to worry about exploding the can. If you have a large compressor just cut your pressure down to 5 to 10 pounds pressure.

Harvey
in Kelowna, BC

 

[Mid Day Machining]

WD40.

Originally made by The Rocket Chemical Company, San Diego, CA under contract with the Us Navy to develop a product to displace water from deck fittings on ships.

The name was actually Water Displacement 40. It was actually the 40th formula the company came up with before the product was named.

WD40, Water Displacement 40th formula.

I wonder what it would have been called it were the 56th formula. Can you imagine asking for WD56?

 

[jim lenzi]

Nice discussion about WD 40. Anyone have comments about LPS? A lot more expensive, but seems to work better.
Jim, Wausau, WI.

 

[Terrywerm]

In recent years I have experienced the lost pressure problem as well, an not just in cans of WD40. I've had it happen with spray paint, Knocker Loose, spray silicone, glass cleaner, just about anything in an aerosol can. I'm thinking that it's the valves that are the problem, allowing the pressure to leak out around the valve body itself. This would explain why the pressure disappears without any product leaking out of the can.

For WD40 I have also moved to buying it by the gallon and using a spray bottle, it's far more economical. I buy Kroil the same way. Same thing with isopropyl alcohol, acetone, and mineral spirits. I have considered purchasing one or two of those pneumatic sprayers that you fill with your selected fluid, then charge it with an air compressor, but have not yet pulled the trigger on that idea.

 

[Alan Douglas]

Anyone have comments about LPS?

The August 2012 Fine Woodworking had a comparative test of a couple dozen rust preventive products. LPS3 worked very well but left a residue on the surface.

 

[Ray C]

Terry,

The problems started when Freon became a regulated material... -Not trying to start any political discussions here (please folks, don't go there) but am just mentioning that it's nothing we're doing wrong. It's the propellant used these days... They can no longer use Freon.

Ray

In recent years I have experienced the lost pressure problem as well, an not just in cans of WD40. I've had it happen with spray paint, Knocker Loose, spray silicone, glass cleaner, just about anything in an aerosol can. I'm thinking that it's the valves that are the problem, allowing the pressure to leak out around the valve body itself. This would explain why the pressure disappears without any product leaking out of the can.

For WD40 I have also moved to buying it by the gallon and using a spray bottle, it's far more economical. I buy Kroil the same way. Same thing with isopropyl alcohol, acetone, and mineral spirits. I have considered purchasing one or two of those pneumatic sprayers that you fill with your selected fluid, then charge it with an air compressor, but have not yet pulled the trigger on that idea.