Warpage or lift off of print, "print failure"

[WobblyHand]

That description sounds like more of an overextrusion issue. Maybe try a test print with the extrusion multiplier set to 99%


Have a look at this thread.

PETG Boogers or Blobs or Artifacts

So I am not new to printing (printed ABS for years fairly well) but I am new to Prusa and PETG. I bought some of the Green transparent PETG filament f...

forum.prusa3d.com

Particularly this post by rob-l6. It seemed to help some folks having similar issues:

Posted by: Rob-l6
Try these settings, works for me and many others ...
Retract Length = 0.4
Lift Z = 0
Retract Speed = 35

Thanks!

I'm not experienced in this stuff, but jeepers, it was only chance that I noticed a little booger above the surface. I had actually paused the printer to try to cut it off with a razor blade. It worked once, but the printer generated some more blobs. Eventually the nozzle crashed into it.

I got one thread pitch higher on this print before it took a dump. It's not because things aren't adhering to the plate. Actually, had difficulty removing the brim! It was adhering very well. But prints don't like getting hammered sideways, especially 6" up.

Ok, added in those settings. Also adjusted the variable layers to around 0.2mm around the threads, 0.3 everywhere else. Resliced and the estimated print time is just around 7 hours. I will give it another try. Hope this works, because this really is exasperating! Not to mention collecting 100 gram paper weights.

 

[WobblyHand]

Umm, those settings were utter disaster. I killed it on the first layer. I may have a leak from the extruder, but there was so much stuff on the sheet it was like bird droppings. No good at all. There's a lot of stuff up higher than the first layer. Oh, see the line at 11 o'clock? That's from the initial wipe. Well, phooey. This is going to have to wait until tomorrow. Maybe I can get a better picture in the daylight. Somehow, I don't think it will look materially better.

Red was in the extruder earlier. I did the filament load, and had it go a little longer for the color change. You can see the brim came out fine, it printed first. Then the center section turned reddish. No success for today. Maybe tomorrow.

 

[WobblyHand]

Tomorrow I start with examining the nozzle area. It looks like a mess.

 

[Ken226]

Tomorrow I start with examining the nozzle area. It looks like a mess.

What speeds are you printing at?

On my Flashforge, I get pretty ugly pillowing and lots of stringing if I go anywhere near PLA or abs speeds while running PETG.

Oddly, my Voron can go much quicker with PETG and has none of those issues.

Kinda the same with overhangs. On my Flashforge, unless I run the cooling fan full blast,overhang edges curl up and the part gets knocked loose. On my Voron, I can run the same part with the cooling fan off, and get no curling whatsoever.

That's the tuning challenge with 3d printing. The same settings that work on one machine don't seem to work the same on others.

 

[WobblyHand]

What speeds are you printing at?

On my Flashforge, I get pretty ugly pillowing and lots of stringing if I go anywhere near PLA or abs speeds while running PETG.

Oddly, my Voron can go much quicker with PETG and has none of those issues.

Kinda the same with overhangs. On my Flashforge, unless I run the cooling fan full blast,overhang edges curl up and the part gets knocked loose. On my Voron, I can run the same part with the cooling fan off, and get no curling whatsoever.

That's the tuning challenge with 3d printing. The same settings that work on one machine don't seem to work the same on others.

These are the defaults for the printer... Never had to fool with them before. But also never did variable layer height, which is different.

The print sheet was pretty ugly looking. So I washed it in hot water and detergent, and dried it off. Then I wiped it down with 99% IPA. Looks better. I am going to do a z height calibration.

It's also possible that these two reels of Prusament PETG aren't good or uniform. The reason I say that, is the first time I used them, they spat and popped because they were so wet. I got terrible prints. Then got a filament dryer and stored them in vacuum bags with desiccant and the prints were mostly ok - until now. So I am a little suspicious about their quality control.

I do have two reels of unopened black Overture PETG. I don't have settings for them, besides the really wide ranges they provide. The settings they provide overlap that of Prusament PETG. Current settings for the Prusament PETG are:

 

[Ken226]

This settings are pretty conservative, so I doubt that this is your issue. Your hot-end temp is 10* higher than I run for PETG, but still a normal temp. Otherwise everything looks about the same.

Try a different roll of PETG. You never know, perhaps it is the problem. I've had good luck with Overture PETG, using settings very similar to yours.

 

[vtcnc]

I don’t know if it has been mentioned in detail, but making a draft skirt taller and wider in combination with a brim can also help with lift and ear page as well.

If you don’t have an enclosure, a skirt and brim can do a lot of unseen work to break up any drafts in the room that can lead to lift and warpage. Before I built an enclosure I was using skirts about 1/8” wide by 1/4-3/8” tall and this most likely kept things turbulent around the print-to-surface interface - thereby minimizing temp cycling and resulting lift.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[WobblyHand]

For grins and giggles did a first layer cal. Nothing stood out, except, the long major zig zag lines were not uniform in thickness. I only slightly lowered the z height, but it was really small, like less than 10u. The pad it formed was ok.

I'm doing a 3x3 check. I don't think it will reveal anything I don't know. My bed isn't as flat as this perfectionist would like. But it hasn't proved to be a big issue. So far the pattern is ok.

If nothing jumps out, I will change filament.

Edit: 1 out of 9 squares has tiny blobs on it. The rest aren't bad, but I do see that sections within the squares that were filled at much later times, have quite a different appearance to them, like they may be of different thickness. When I pull it from the plate, I will measure them. It also looks like the perimeters are different than the fill. Usually the fill is quicker - so I'd expect it might be thinner, unless the extruder compensates for it. I don't know, there seem to be a multiplicity of small things. After inspecting the thickness, will re-evaluate.

 

[Ken226]

Just as out of curiousity, go to the "filament" tab, under, cooling, then cooling thresholds and double check the setting for "slow down if layer print time is below".

For some prints that have a small cross section area to print, this forces it to slow down so previous layers have time to cool before the next layer, otherwise the printer will lay the next layer down on top of hot jelly.

Mine is set to 15 seconds. I believe 15 is default for PETG.

 

[WobblyHand]

Just as put of curiousity, go to the "filament" tab, under, cooling, then cooling thresholds, what do you have set for "slow down if layer print time is below"?

For some prints that have a small section area, this forces it to slow down so previous layers have time to cool, and the printer doesn't try to lay the next layer down on top of jelly.

Mine is set to 15 seconds. I believe 15 is default for PETG.

I have 20 seconds.