Useful Lathe Accessories?

If you don't have one, the Atlas/Craftsman Manual of Lathe Operations (MOLO) is useful. It has detailed threading charts and pictures/diagrams of the gear setups. It also has instructions for basic lathe operation, tool grinding, etc that are useful if you are new to machining. I believe you can download a copy from the downloads section here if you are a paying member.

My Craftsman lathe came with a Jacobs headstock chuck (I don't remember the model number off the top of my head). I used it often because it had less runout than my regular 3 jaw chuck. I may have just been lucky though - I later purchased one for my Logan lathe that has terrible runout that makes it pretty useless.

I wouldn't pay that much for a steady rest unless you have an immediate need for it. Just keep searching on eBay and you might get lucky and find a cheaper one.
 
Collets and collet chucks. Thanks for the link.
Although I'm not sure when / why I would need to turn small precise stock.....perhaps for making screws and such? I'm thinking that I'd likely get more use with collets [ in time ] than I would with a spendy steady rest. I need to learn about collets and their uses I guess.

When you use the Jacobs chuck on the spindle, which is preferred / less runout more accurate version for these little lathes? The Jacobs with female 1 x 8TPI or mounting with a MT2 adapter into the spindle taper?

Also......what about knurling with these little lathes? Asking too much of them? If knurling is *acceptable* to do....which knurling tool to choose? and mounting of the tool.....into the OXA tool post holder? or other method?

The MOLO book. I have it. It came with the lathe. I read it often, but it's packed with so much info, it makes my head spin trying to remember it, lol
 
Collets are more accurate than a 3 jaw and easier to use than a 4 jaw when you need to remove a part and then replace it to do more turning. They are also gentler on the part than a chuck, leaving fewer marks so can be good for holding a threaded part or one where you have a nice finish.
Last if you are doing work up close to the chuck, they are smooth so will not cause as much damage as hitting the jaw of a spinning chuck if you get careless and make contact. ER32 will hold parts up to 3/4" which on a 6" lathe is not tiny.


You can knurl on even smaller lathes, but you want a scissor or clamp type knurling tool, not the cheaper bump type. I don't have a good knurling tool yet, so can't offer any specific recommendations.
 
What accessories you need depnds on what you want to do! (Duh.) For example, the steady rest. You don't need a steady rest...until you absolutely do!

However, I would suggest you make sure your lathe is in good mechanical condition before buying more stuff for it. Well-secured to a sturdy bench. Bed levelled and headstock aligned with tailstock. Check the bearing preload. Gibs adjusted. Check the leadscrew half-nuts and the cross-feed and compound nuts. Replace if worn. Etc. Of course, eveything well lubricated: aka dripping with oil! ;)

Then make stuff! You'll soon figure out what you need.

Craig
 
Sage advice Craig, thank you.
Yes, I've spent weeks now going over every detail of the lathe. I have replaced the cross feed nut with new. The compound nut is still ok and tight. I do have new spindle bushings coming, although the originals aren't very loose. I can "just" get a perceptible wiggle up/ down on the spindle with vertical hand pulling / pushing. New belts too. everything was disassembled, cleaned and oiled. Ditto for the 3 jaw chuck.....all cleaned and lubed.
The lead screw half nuts are tight.....whether they are original or not, I dunno. They seem good tho.

I need to find two new nuts for it however. M6-263 for the compound handle and M-262 for the carriage wheel. The current ones are not oem Atlas parts.....just normal too-thick nuts. Bugs me just seeing them as incorrect.

I do need to learn how to align the tail stock with the head stock. Alignment will be off, no doubt.
 
That 4 jaw chuck is the only item that I think is really necessary. A steady rest is useful. I've needed one once a year or so, but the Ebay prices were just too high, so I made one. Almost anything will be good enough for one quick use; it just takes longer to set up. Threading gears are useful, but you can do a lot with taps and dies. I'd say no to the milling attachment unless you really need it and you can make it yourself. They look so precarious and cheesy. One thing I like is a faceplate, but then I'm kind of old school.
 
When you use the Jacobs chuck on the spindle, which is preferred / less runout more accurate version for these little lathes? The Jacobs with female 1 x 8TPI or mounting with a MT2 adapter into the spindle taper?

The one I was speaking of threaded onto the spindle nose (mine was 1"-10tpi). I wouldn't recommend using one with a Morse Taper shank in the spindle unless it was held in with a drawbar. And honestly, an ER collet chuck would be better if you're going to buy something.
 
A steady rest, in my opinion, is essential equipment for any general purpose kit. Same goes for a follow rest (lunette), but the latter depends on more factors than just work length. I use the steady more. I wouldn't even buy a lathe without a matching steady.

I say that a face plate and set of dogs is essential, but that is because I read old textbooks that say absurd things like "work between centers whenever possible." I've taken that to heart, and I work between centers whenever possible. Others don't, so you can make up your own mind.

I have a milling attachment. I've never used it. I don't think I ever will use it; I have a milling machine that does the job bigger and better.

I have a carriage stop, and use it all the time. You can buy one or make one, there isn't much to them, but you'll be glad you got one when you realize you need it.

Tap holders, die holders, and an assortment of chucks are nice to have, but don't rush out and get them until you realize the need for one.
 
The accessories that I use for my lathe are:
(1) a great deal of QCTP tool holders,
(2) boring bar kit (I use inserts),
(3) drills,
(4) tailstocks chucks for up to 3/4” drills,
(5) slimline live center,
(6) lathe dogs,
(7) dead center for chuck (for turning between centers),
(8) HSS blanks,
(9) presharpened HSS tool bits,
(10) threading kit (I use inserts),
(11) parting blades, and
(12) turning & facing insert kit.
 
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If you can pick one up, get a large diameter (~3/4”)MT2 taper drill bit. Very handy to make a big hole for subsequent boring jobs. Much easier to just jam it in as opposed to putting in your drill chuck , then chucking-up a bit and then having to later change boring bars from tiny to large during boring.

Rick
 
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