Two Timer Build

[Chris Hamel]

looks good. I think using .125 for the rocker arm shaft was a good idea since the rocker arms were only 1/4 " thick.

 

[jwmelvin]

It’s really fun to watch this thing come together. Thanks.

 

[rdean]

I do appreciate the replys and the likes so I know there are people watching.

Just two pictures today but over a big hurdle with the valve train. All done and adjusted.


I couldn't find any 1/8" steel rod so what do you think of the brass push rods?


Next is to build an engine stand so I can figure out the location for the electronics and the gas tank.
The gas tank has to be lower than the carburetor and the carb will be under the head so there needs to be a base for the engine to sit on.
Also I haven't forgotten about the engine cooling but that's for later.

Thanks for looking
Ray

 

[f350ca]

Looking fantastic Ray

Greg

 

[Chris Hamel]

Looks good. Do the pushrods contact the cam directly or are there lifters I can't see?

 

[rdean]

Chris the lifters ride on the cam lobes and the push rods are in a short hole in the lifters other end.

I built a wood box for the engine to sit on. It will house the ignition module, the batteries, and the On/Off switch.
There will be another larger wood base under this one and it will have access to this box from the bottom.




Thanks for looking
Ray

 

[Chris Hamel]

Looks good

 

[rdean]

I'm will be taking a few days off a I am going to the Florida Fylwheelers show.

Events - Florida Flywheelers Antique Engine Club

floridaflywheelers.org

See you later
Ray

 

[rdean]

I would like to tell you how much I enjoyed the Florida Flywheelers show but I didn't get there. We drove down and got close to the show but then something came up we had to change our plans. Maybe next time.

Flywheels
I checked cast iron prices for the flywheels and two 1" pieces of 6" cast iron without shipping was $75.00
Now I am not a cheap skate but that just seems too much.
Walmart has a 5 lb bar bell weight for about $10 and I have used them before on other engines I built.
They have been very good quality with few or not any voids or hard spots. I did get one that was unusable once but one bad one out of five is alright for the price.


I cut down both sides in the lathe to get to 0.625 in width.
I have been using carbide triangle inserts and the interrupted cut means they don't last too long.


Moved them over to the rotary table to thin out the webbing and lose some more weight.


I would like to get to them down 3 lbs each and 6" in diameter.

Thanks for looking

Ray

 

[rdean]

I forgot to include these three pictures of the tapered bushings yesterday. I have been using this method on several engines and it makes the installation of the flywheels so much easier. The flywheels can be moved in and out and removed at will and then reinstalled. There are no set screw gouges in the crankshaft and I find they run truer for me then any of the other types I have tried. I used a 3 degree taper on the bushing and in the flywheel.


Here I am cutting a slot through the taper so it can compress on to the crankshaft.


I painted them gloss black and polished the bushings last night.


Today I assembled the flywheels onto the crankshaft.




The left side flywheel lacked about 1/2" from going on as it hit the tension idler for the timing belt I made a new longer arm for the idler and everything fits again.
Just one of the draw backs of building without drawings but it was easily corrected.


Thanks for looking
Ray