Two issues.... took video footage

I took video <snip>

2nd part of the video shows that I'm having problems facing off the work piece.

You seem to be using the side of the tool to do facing--this is wrong.

You will have better luck when::

a) make sure the tip of the cutting tool is dead on center of the spindle.
b) angle the tool towards the facing cut so that only the tip of the tool does any cutting.

Single point tools (lathe, shaper) work well because large forces on very small area creates enough pressure to rip the metallic structure.
 
A little insight from a "casual" user, if I may. I'm not in this for regular use, just to make a piece when I need it. I have a "big" (12x36 Craftsman) machine now, but have worked with small machines from the UniMat DB-200 up. And Pop's hand drill in a vise when I needed but had no lathe. Rough but do-able ........ I do have a slightly smaller machine to do metric threading when needed. But the mini (6x12) was passed on to a maker's group a few years back when I got my hands on the Craftsman.

For the saddle clamp, I found a bolt that adjusted the tightness of the saddle and replaced it with a cap-screw and wrench. That stays on the machine. On the right near side on mine. I dont know if it has a gib or just adjusts. It does stop the saddle. I use it regularly for facing cuts, and especially cutting off.

For the cross-slide, well it's an old machine and the dovetails are badly worn. I replaced one of the gib screws with a longer screw and a home-made knob. The knob was soft plastic, easy enough to find these days and the screw heated until it could be forced in. When it cooled, voila, an adjustable set screw. I can run the cross-slide in (or out) with one finger and then tighten the gib for the last couple of turns. It ain't perfect but does get by worn dovetails. And I can cut a half-thou when I need to. Just have to ease into it with the last couple of cuts light. And use a reading glass so I can see the dial. There's one on the compound too, but doesn't get used much.

There is always some part larger than you can chuck up. Even when you have access to a shipyard lathe. The art is to figure out a way to get around it. To make it work anyway. I truely hope this will be of assistance.

Bill Hudson​
 
It's definitely the carriage moving around. I just saw it move.. when I was doing a face cut and a tad bit aggressive turning.

I was holding the carriage handwheel to prevent it from moving and I managed to do face the part I was working on, but I can't hold the wheel steady enough, so it's not entirely flat. Not to mention, the hot chips were hitting my hand which I didn't like.

I ordered the LMS carriage lock that was posted here. The fact that the lever is on the chuck side is kind of off putting, though.
 
It's definitely the carriage moving around. I just saw it move.. when I was doing a face cut and a tad bit aggressive turning.

I was holding the carriage handwheel to prevent it from moving and I managed to do face the part I was working on, but I can't hold the wheel steady enough, so it's not entirely flat. Not to mention, the hot chips were hitting my hand which I didn't like.

I ordered the LMS carriage lock that was posted here. The fact that the lever is on the chuck side is kind of off putting, though.

There is room to make the carriage lock work on the back of the carriage if you want to put it there. Drill and tap a couple of holes or just let it sit on the carriage. Would have to remove it to adjust the gibs but that's not a deal breaker.
 
It's definitely the carriage moving around. I just saw it move.. when I was doing a face cut and a tad bit aggressive turning.

I was holding the carriage handwheel to prevent it from moving and I managed to do face the part I was working on, but I can't hold the wheel steady enough, so it's not entirely flat. Not to mention, the hot chips were hitting my hand which I didn't like.

I ordered the LMS carriage lock that was posted here. The fact that the lever is on the chuck side is kind of off putting, though.

I replaced the lever with a socket head cap screw since the lever got in the way many times. Easier to use a hex key to lock/unlock the carriage.


Roy
 
I replaced the lever with a socket head cap screw since the lever got in the way many times. Easier to use a hex key to lock/unlock the carriage.


Roy

That is a great idea Roy. I'll be doing this to mine in the morning.
 
That is a great idea Roy. I'll be doing this to mine in the morning.

I used the lever for the LMS carriage stop. A small shim washer between the two half's of the stop body and the lever make it a quick adjustment stop.

Roy
 
Do all mini lathes have have manual lever operated carriage stops? Are there ones that don't move at all when you're facing or turning?

My tailstock is annoying, too. I have a bolt you gotta tighten to lock it in place. A lot of the other lathes I see have a locking lever. Is there a replacement tailstock that I can put in that has a lever and that will center with the chuck?
 
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