Transfer case linkage modification

Janderso

Jeff Anderson
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Hey all,
My friend was just offered and accepted $65,000 for this 1967 bronco. He built from the frame up.
Challenge, “can you cut this off and put a 3/8-24 thread on the end about 3/4 long?”
Sure,
Ah, can’t chuck it in the lathe. I can hang it off the mill table and use a boring head to reduce the size.
Interesting challenge.
Am I missing something?
 

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Cut it shorter, drill & tap for 3/8-24, thread in stud?

I'm always looking for a way to avoid following directions.
I haven’t cut it yet, oh, I get it.
Hmm, I’ll have a think on that.
At first glance, genius.
Ok, I like your idea Craig.
 

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I like MrWhoopee's suggestion.

Use a good quality, 1.5" long setscrew for the stud.

I don't think you're missing anything with that "off the table" set-up.
 
Like this.
I think this is the first time I’ve ever used this angle bracket.
I dug it out of the ashes. For this op, it’s fine.
 

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Hmmmmmmmmmm................... I have the old 2 door 93 K5 Blazer sitting in the driveway that I want to bring back to life . That kind of bucks would make it worth while . How did you make out Jeff ?
 
I like the idea of the set-screw. The threads will end up being significantly more durable, since we have no idea what sort of steel that is made out of (or if it holds threads well!). Additionally, the commercial rolled threads are going to do better than the die'd threads you're presumably going to cut.

Additionally, that setup is probably as good as you can get, but the fact that it is only holding on two 'points' means it doesn't take much side-load to toss it out of your setup. PERHAPS putting a V-Block or two in there could help, but it still might be lipstick on a pig. The biggest issue with the setup is that that looks like a pain to indicate in enough to go straight up and down :)
 
I believe the threaded stud is the wat to go. Perhaps hold the top section of the shaft in a collet to align it, then clamp it down.
 
I like the idea of the set-screw. The threads will end up being significantly more durable, since we have no idea what sort of steel that is made out of (or if it holds threads well!). Additionally, the commercial rolled threads are going to do better than the die'd threads you're presumably going to cut.

Additionally, that setup is probably as good as you can get, but the fact that it is only holding on two 'points' means it doesn't take much side-load to toss it out of your setup. PERHAPS putting a V-Block or two in there could help, but it still might be lipstick on a pig. The biggest issue with the setup is that that looks like a pain to indicate in enough to go straight up and down :)
I tried a v block. Mine are too big, plus, I needed 3 hands just to get this set up.
I'll go slow and easy.
 
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