Tool and cutter grinder build

Beautiful work Mark. Just a thought on your dial in brass issue. Could you cut a half round grove in the outside diameter of dial and bend and pin or epoxy a ring of brass rod and then machine it flat for your scale? Mike
 
Takes me a bit of thought to figure them out too, the first one I had to draw on a CAD program so I could rotate the parts. The first picture might add a little confusion as its two dials at 90 deg using one verier.
IMG_0342.jpg
The main dials are at 5 deg increments, as yours are, (but I never got the numbers stamped). The vernier is cut at 4 deg increments, one degree less than the main.
So when your lined up at say zero degrees the centre of the verier is lined up, as we rotate the dial the next line on the vernier lines up at 5-4 or 1 deg, then the next line 10-8 or 2 deg and so on.
Wish i could say I was smart enough to have come up with the idea, but I wasn't, stole it off the dials on the compound and cross feed of the lathe.
Hope that helps Mark.
Your grinder is going to be a work of art, or Mark in this case.

Greg
 
It is starting to sink in. I tried this one time before and it didn't work. I think my mistake was the vernier spacing is different than the dial. I don't think I did that.

So if I have a line every 5 degrees, I want the vernier lines every 4 degrees.? and 5 vernier lines?




Yea, that first picture really messed with me. I didn't understand the 90 degrees and two dials. The larger pic helped with that.

We'll get it hammered into my head eventually. Sometimes i just fail to grasp some things.

Thank you, I appreciate your help.



f350ca said:
Takes me a bit of thought to figure them out too, the first one I had to draw on a CAD program so I could rotate the parts. The first picture might add a little confusion as its two dials at 90 deg using one verier.
IMG_0342.jpg
The main dials are at 5 deg increments, as yours are, (but I never got the numbers stamped). The vernier is cut at 4 deg increments, one degree less than the main.
So when your lined up at say zero degrees the centre of the verier is lined up, as we rotate the dial the next line on the vernier lines up at 5-4 or 1 deg, then the next line 10-8 or 2 deg and so on.
Wish i could say I was smart enough to have come up with the idea, but I wasn't, stole it off the dials on the compound and cross feed of the lathe.
Hope that helps Mark.
Your grinder is going to be a work of art, or Mark in this case.

Greg
Click to expand...
 
Spindle inversion is an important feature on the grinder. Both the Bonelle and Quorn will do it but it is difficult. On the Quorn, you have to remove the remove the wheel head and turn it over, plus a few more things. On the Bonelle, you have to turn the wheel head over, reverse the motor plate and disassemble the lead screw and relocate it in holes provided in construction. In other words, you have to disassemble and reassemble half the machine. I did not like this idea and there has to be a better way, at least easier.
For those who don't know what I mean by spindle inversion, it is where the column is rotated to locate the spindle perpendicular to the front bar instead of parallel with it. This is handy for some sharpening features.

To accomplish this more easily, I made a plate to bolt to the wheel head where my motor plate had bolted.
Spindle inversion3.jpg
You can see the flat head bolt in the center. This goes through the motor plate and secured with a lock nut set just loose enough to be able to rotate the motor plate.
spindle inversion2.jpg
You will also notice, besides the pivot hole , there are two 1/4-20 threaded holes. One at the top and one at the bottom. these receive the lock bolts to hold the motor plate secure.
spindle inversion.jpg
This setup is the key to simple spindle inversion. To invert the spindle:
1. Rotate the complete column 90 degrees ( or what ever angle is desired in that area). This is done by loosening the clamp bolt at the top of the column and the wheel head clamp bolt.

2. Remove the drive belt and reverse the spindle in the arms.

3. remove the two lock bolts in the top and bottom of the motor plate, ( see photo), rotate the motor 180 degrees and reinstall the two lock bolts.

4. Replace the drive belt and you are ready to go.

This is soooo much simpler and easier than tearing half the machine apart and reassembling it.
 
I also finished the rocking arm micrometer today. here is a photo of the finished micrometer. Each of those divisions is .001"
completed arm micrometer.jpg
 
Getting a little tricky is it Mark? :D

"Billy G"
 
Bill Gruby said:
Getting a little tricky is it Mark? :D

"Billy G"
Click to expand...
Haha, not too bad. the part that scares me most is the spindle . I have everything for it, just haven't started it yet. But I am extremely pleased with the project so far. And I have gotten a lot of help from your grinder build thread. I go there often to see " How did Bill do it"
 
I added the support bar for the elevation assembly. This is a 1/2" x 1" x 13 1/2" long steel bar that bolts to the top and bottom lead screw brackets to make them a single unit.
support bar.jpg
 
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