To Key or Not to Key that is the question.

Wow this terrific. It seems there are many others like me. machpete99 mentioned accuracy. I'm not sure if accuracy is the fault of the chuck ,the fault of the drill bit or maybe even the fault of the punch mark or DRO values. I seem to hit the mark best when I take the time to put my wiggler in and use the pinpoint for alignment. Some Drill bits like to do the Banana dance when I am trying to start them. LOL
 
I often use a drill chuck for tapping; a keyless chuck is useless for that, the one keyless chuck that I have is on a drill press is in my wood shop, no need for further comment on that aspect.
 
I often use a drill chuck for tapping; a keyless chuck is useless for that, the one keyless chuck that I have is on a drill press is in my wood shop, no need for further comment on that aspect.
While I swear by my keyless chucks, this is the one place they fall short. Sort of. I have a set of tap holders that chuck up just fine, and those work on those odd occasions when needed. Substantial tapping I do in the drill press (after drilling in the mill). While I've never had an issue grabbing drills with the keyless chucks, taps are a different story. The Jacobs ball-bearing chuck grabs taps just fine.

GsT
 
I've got both and will use the provided pin spanner wrench on the keyless when I feel it is likely needed. Either will be used on the mill but the keyless is almost always used on the lathe. Drill press has a ball bearing keyed chuck. Makita battery drill does fine with it's keyless. My corded drills all have key chucks (Hammer drill has SDS-max. )
 
The "self-tightening" keyless are much different than the hand tightening keyless.

The self-tightening ones like albrecht (spelling?) are very well made with minimal runout, but they operate on cutting forces to tighten.

Use a hole saw and you will need help to remove.

Drill a 1/16 hole with light pecking and when you hit the stop button the bit gets launched as the chuck opens from the inertia of the housing.

We slowly got into the habit of using it like the hand-tighten version, we hold the brake and give a good twist by hand and good to go.

The chuck on the Dewalt cordless has done well, it is 20 volt 1/2 drive and nothing has slipped yet.

Drill likely does not have enough torque to make it slip.

The corded and pneumatics all have keyed chucks.

Sent from my SM-G781V using Tapatalk
 
The "self-tightening" keyless are much different than the hand tightening keyless.

The self-tightening ones like albrecht (spelling?) are very well made with minimal runout, but they operate on cutting forces to tighten.

Use a hole saw and you will need help to remove.

Drill a 1/16 hole with light pecking and when you hit the stop button the bit gets launched as the chuck opens from the inertia of the housing.

We slowly got into the habit of using it like the hand-tighten version, we hold the brake and give a good twist by hand and good to go.

The chuck on the Dewalt cordless has done well, it is 20 volt 1/2 drive and nothing has slipped yet.

Drill likely does not have enough torque to make it slip.

The corded and pneumatics all have keyed chucks.

Sent from my SM-G781V using Tapatalk
So I guess what you are saying is that Not all keyless chucks are created equal.
 
Have both, use both. Sometimes quick and convenient is more important that grip strength, sometimes the other way around. I pick the right tool for the job at hand.
 
Yeah, you see, I bought a Rohm keyless off eBay and it was smooth as butter, a little tatty but seemed sound.

It could not hold a drill under any worthwhile load, to save its life. So I went back to keyed.

All that said, I recently got an Albrecht 1-13 and a Jacobs 0-13 so I'll give keyless another go.

The thing is, if Stefan Gotteswinter uses keyless chucks, they must be good for something. ;)
 
They make carbide tipped jaws you know you want one...

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