TIG is Hard

[Al 1]

The table is grounded, if I touch my skin to the table when I hit the pedal, I get zapped.

ground your part as close as possible to weld

 

[G-ManBart]

All good stuff.
I think I’ll leave my table set up and dedicate some time each day to practice
This welding process is so much harder than MiG welding But so much more versatile.

One thing I haven't noticed anybody mention is filler diameter. When you're welding thicker material it doesn't matter too much, but on thinner stock it helps to have smaller filler. Autogenous welds (no filler) have their place, but can wind up with cracking in some cases. Find some 1/16" filler and maybe even grab some .045"...it comes in handy at times.

The other thing I didn't see mentioned in regards to light is keeping it from coming in the top of your shield. If you wind up with an overhead light glaring through the top of the shield you''ll struggle to see what you're doing. In some cases it's bad enough people will put a rag or shop towel over the opening to stop the backlighting....makes a big difference.

I'm not a pro, but everybody likes pics! This was my first attempt at 16ga stainless with .030" filler. A buddy came over to borrow one of my TIG welders (his was broken) and he was working on a project with these materials so I grabbed some of the scraps and gave it a try. It was easy because I was able to watch him for half an hour before I gave it a shot. This would be almost impossible with thicker filler.

 

[keeena]

About 15-ish years ago I took a beginner course which involved gas and stick only. I haven't touched welding since until I buying a TIG machine 2 months ago. TIG on steel was reasonably quick pick up even after all that time. So I'd recommend an continuing ed night course if you can find one. Learning the fundamentals with gas will set a solid foundation.

Definitely use 1/8" thru 3/16" thick steel coupons for starters. Flat beads before trying inside/outside joints. Clean everything meticulously: sand to bare metal & wipe down with acetone.

As others mentioned: you shouldn't get shocked. It means that your body is completing a circuit between your torch and the table...that really shouldn't happen unless you're holding the electrode. I think someone mentioned the insulation/handle on the torch may be suspect. I'd pop the handle off and look around. I'm also wondering if there could be an issue internally with the machine that could cause the same problem. There's smarter folks here who would know.

Getting your body in a comfortable position is also really important. Setup an arm rest / reference surface to glide your hand on. Do a dry run to make sure you can move through the weld bead range without getting your body position out of whack. At first I found that I was using a death-grip on the torch. Relax! Also take up excess slack (weight) of the line with a hanger and ensure the line between the hanger and the torch won't be snagging anything mid-weld.

Some of the best YouTube University advice I came across is to avoid over-thinking the hardware. 3/32 electrode (2% lanthanated), 1/16 or 3/32 filler, #5/6 (AL) or #7/8 (steel) cup. Don't try jumping to fancy gas lenses, obsess about grind angles, other electrode flavors, etc... I'd even stay away from AL for a bit. While these items can definitely help fine-tune things or deal with trickier joints, you'll get yourself wrapped around the axle if you over-think it as a beginner.

 

[G-ManBart]

Some of the best YouTube University advice I came across is to avoid over-thinking the hardware. 3/32 electrode (2% lanthanated), 1/16 or 3/32 filler, #5/6 (AL) or #7/8 (steel) cup. Don't try jumping to fancy gas lenses, obsess about grind angles, other electrode flavors, etc...

Not to argue, but gas lenses make it easier on a beginner....they're shorter so easier to see around, and you can run your stickout a lot more so it's very easy to see the tip of the tungsten. I don't see them as fancy at all...just slightly different and easier to use for anything but tight corners. They certainly aren't expensive at this point so there isn't much downside.

 

[General Zod]

As others mentioned: you shouldn't get shocked. It means that your body is completing a circuit between your torch and the table...that really shouldn't happen unless you're holding the electrode.

But it does happen, and definitely not holding the electrode. So then what gives? It's because the circuit being completed and shocking you is not between the torch and the table. It's between the table and the work clamp. If you're bare skin, or especially worse if your sleeves have moisture due to sweat, both make contact with the table, a tiny portion of the voltage/current at the puddle, works its way through you on it's way to the work clamp. There is a tiny potential difference between those two points. Notice I said tiny. I'm not saying tons of amps are coursing through your body, otherwise you'd be a vegetable. But it's definitely there, I have felt it. Without holding the actual electrode.

 

[General Zod]

Not to argue, but gas lenses make it easier on a beginner....they're shorter so easier to see around, and you can run your stickout a lot more so it's very easy to see the tip of the tungsten. I don't see them as fancy at all...just slightly different and easier to use for anything but tight corners. They certainly aren't expensive at this point so there isn't much downside.

Exactly. Now a days, it's like telling someone to learn to drive on a car without power-steering since it's not absolutely needed, just learn how to drive straight forward and worry about turning later. Learning is much easier with power-steering (gas lens set-up's).

Also, avoid cheap gas lens collet bodies from EBay/Amazon at ALL Costs. CK or TecTorch or Furick set-up's.

 

[G-ManBart]

Also, avoid cheap gas lens collet bodies from EBay/Amazon at ALL Costs. CK or TecTorch or Furick set-up's.

You can actually get CK and Furick on both eBay and Amazon now...have to pay attention to the details, but they're definitely available. I don't recall seeing TecTorch, but I haven't really looked. Some of the bigger suppliers have moved to both platforms in the past year or so it seems.

 

[General Zod]

Technically yes, but I mean the no-name cheapie's that sell for very "attractive" pricing. I'm not saying they will all be junk either, but it sure does suck when someone is barely embarking on that steep learning curve with a faulty part that they might have a difficult time diagnosing weld issues.

 

[keeena]

Not to argue, but gas lenses make it easier on a beginner....they're shorter so easier to see around, and you can run your stickout a lot more so it's very easy to see the tip of the tungsten. I don't see them as fancy at all...just slightly different and easier to use for anything but tight corners. They certainly aren't expensive at this point so there isn't much downside.

That's not arguing And its a very valid point. I agree that they are useful, I just feel its an extra layer of complication for first-timers. For learning the basics: its not going to make the difference between being able to weld or not. Once you start to get the fundamentals like electrode gap, feed, reading puddle: then start to add other variables as you fine-tune skills and tackle trickier projects where those products shine.

In the OP's original comment about eyesight: something like pyrex cups might be a good suggestion.

 

[koenbro]

I am often surprised by advice that beginners shouldn’t use has lenses, etc. I am a new amateur started out in 2018 with a CK torch and gas lens. Great way to start.


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