Threading without a thread dial.....

[markba633csi]

If you decide to install a reversing switch, here is a diagram to match it up with your motor:
(be certain to use only the 3-phase "chopstick" style switch, not the "hockey stick" style)

 

[Jim F]

Yep. I don't mean to come off as cheap, but I've spent WAY over $500 on tooling for this lathe in the last month since I got it, stuff I found out I really "need" which as a newb I didn't figure....

I'm burned out spending and figuring on budgeting for later. A real Logan thread dial is $200+, or maybe find a used one on ebay, or accept 3d printed plastic of unknown quality ($50 wasted?)....ugh.

I have a 3D printed one for my SB9, it works fine.

 

[Bi11Hudson]

Having both an Atlas/Craftsman 12X36 and an Asian 9X19, I specifically removed the threading dials. The threading dial on an imperial lathe cannot be used to cut metric threads, the half nuts must remain engaged and the spindle reversed. Since I cut metric almost as much as imperial, I just use the same technique for both. The dials are a waste to me, just in the way.

Reversing the spindle is easy enough electrically. Reversing the relationship of the start winding will start the motor in reverse. I have a cheap, Chinese made switch that costs about $10-12. Inflation may have jacked the price up but they can be had cheap. You can use a DPDT switch but it is cumbersome. Or rig a handwheel on the spindle and use the Armstrong method.

In any case, for metric threads the half nuts must not disengage. A sharpie might work for coarse pitches, but for fine work, <20TPI, I wouldn't attempt it.

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