Thinking about getting a band saw for exhaust tubing.

[johnnyc14]

I have a Milwaukee portable band saw that I made a table for to convert it to a bench mounted saw. It works great with a 14 tpi blade for steel. I have cut up to 1 inch thick steel with no problem.







John

 

[Marco Bernardini]

I have a Milwaukee portable band saw that I made a table for to convert it to a bench mounted saw.

John, you must not drop beer cans on the saw table so vigorously! :lmao:
Jokes apart, this is a nice setup!

 

[Mac1]

I have a Milwaukee portable band saw that I made a table for to convert it to a bench mounted saw. It works great with a 14 tpi blade for steel. I have cut up to 1 inch thick steel with no problem.








John

Very nice, I did the same with my PortaBand, except I made everything out of wood,except the table. One wingnut holds the saw in the stand, so its still portable if I need it. I actually prefer using it mounted for most cuts. I would post a picture, but compared to yours, its just something nailed together.

 

[Fabrickator]

I had once considered making mine a horizontal band saw, until I got a full size HF version instead.

Very good job!

 

[JimDawson]

I have a Milwaukee portable band saw that I made a table for to convert it to a bench mounted saw. It works great with a 14 tpi blade for steel. I have cut up to 1 inch thick steel with no problem.

John

Nice job. That is almost too pretty to use.

 

[bill704]

The main difference between a metal saw and a wood saw is the blade speed (metal saws run much slower). If you try to cut steel at higher speeds, you just end up destroying blades. I know some saws can be retrofitted to cut metal, but I have not done this, so I can't point you at a model. I will say that the HF model you linked doesn't look very "robust".

What about a portaband? I have seen several builds where people basically turned them into small vertical saws. Blades are widely available too.

That's kind of what I was thinking but it all depends on how much room you have to devote to another machine, although the band-saw is one of those "must-have" pieces of equipment.

If you don't have much space (like me), and you don't want to fab-up your own portable band-saw table, then SWAG Offroad sells tables for Milwaukee & Dewalt portable band-saws:
http://www.swagoffroad.com/SWAG-Portaband-Tables-Accessories_c_35.html

Good luck in your header build!

 

[ScrapMetal]

Guys, correct me if I'm wrong but doesn't cutting thin wall tubing on a band saw come with it's own set of problems? As I understand it you are supposed to have three teeth in contact with the metal at all times in order to avoid destroying your blade?

Comments?

-Ron

 

[f350ca]

Doesn't the tube try to rotate when you start the cut on a vertical bandsaw?
I have a largish wood saw in the cabinet shop, I've tried cutting a slice off a log for a bowl blank, wasn't life threatening but the blade didn't fair too well. The blade contacts the unsupported outside edge and tries to spin the stock. Happens even cutting dowels, but they can be held firm.
Greg

 

[JimDawson]

Guys, correct me if I'm wrong but doesn't cutting thin wall tubing on a band saw come with it's own set of problems? As I understand it you are supposed to have three teeth in contact with the metal at all times in order to avoid destroying your blade?

Comments?

-Ron

Yes it does, it tends to grab. 3 teeth in contact is the ideal minimum, along with a slow feed. Normal blade pitch for electrical EMT conduit for instance is 24 TPI, if you can find it, a 32 TPI would be better. My preferred method for cutting thin wall tubing is an abrasive chop saw, with a good Norton blade.

 

[nopriors]

Bandaw speeds for wood saws are about 10 to 30 times faster than for metal cutting and metal cutting requires higher blade tension. Neither of the saws you provided links for are appropriate for cutting steel. Metal cutting saws typically have a gear reduction to slow down the blade speed and the capability to provide higher blade tension. They might be marginally ok but not great for cutting aluminum or brass. Some people have converted wood saws to metal using a gear reduction and/or belt pulley reduction. My Dad had and old Walker Turner 14" he converted using a 20:1 gear reduction box that worked well but that was an old heavy duty industrial saw not a light weight! (I wish I had kept that when he passed away).

You would be better off with something like this:

http://www.grizzly.com/products/4-x-6-Metal-Cutting-Bandsaw/G0622

Or the Horror Fright version:

http://www.harborfreight.com/horizontal-vertical-metal-cutting-bandsaw-93762.html

I have the HF version and I have to say it has been a pleasure to have. The legs wobble the wheels are cheap but the thing works and I am grateful every time I use it. I bought 1 foot of 4" dia. 12L14 and brought it home and cut an inch off with a course blade. I was amazed. (Nicest steel I have ever turned)
Peace
Greg