Thinking about getting a band saw for exhaust tubing.

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jaded13640

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Hi guys, I'm getting ready to build a set of exhaust headers for the race car and was thinking about getting a band saw for cutting the tubing. Anyone that's made headers will know why a band saw would be really handy. The mandral bends you can buy are never exactly what you need right out of the box. You have to cut multiple slices out of the radisus in order to make some bends "tight" enough and the opposite is the case when you only need a slight about of curve.

The last set I built I used my abrasive wheel chop saw. It works fine but what a noisey dusty, messy process! Even my good milwalki doesn't make cuts in tubing very straight. So then I would be stuck side wheeling/griding to get that perfect fit.

Harbor freight has a portable band saw. It has a really wide blade that doesn't bend much. I worked for a guy that mounted an aluminum plate to it so he could mount it in a vise. He's built at least 50 funny car chassis with it and who knows how many roll cages. The problem is it comes with wood blade and they don't even offer a 24 or higher tooth blade. They're available at home depot but it just seems like a big pain in the neck when for not much more I could get the cheap "regular" band saw.

http://www.harborfreight.com/9-in-bench-top-band-saw-60500.html This is their 9in saw. The reviews mostly say they wouldn't recommend it for cutting steel. I would agree that's no doublt true if you were trying to cut 3" thick flat stock with it. But I would think it would handle 16 gauge mild steel tubing?

What do you guys think about that saw for my project?

While roaming craigs list I noticed one that is a 10" but appears to be much beefier from the pic. Here's the link? http://flint.craigslist.org/tls/4504723256.html

I haven't even started building the flanges yet nor have I purchased any bends so I have some time to make the decision. I could just use the chop saw again but what a noisy mess! On the other hand other than this project I can't see a band saw getting used much at all.

Any advice would be greatly appreciated,

Wayne
 
The main difference between a metal saw and a wood saw is the blade speed (metal saws run much slower). If you try to cut steel at higher speeds, you just end up destroying blades. I know some saws can be retrofitted to cut metal, but I have not done this, so I can't point you at a model. I will say that the HF model you linked doesn't look very "robust".

What about a portaband? I have seen several builds where people basically turned them into small vertical saws. Blades are widely available too.
 
Forget the HF bandsaw.
I got a similar one and it can be defined as C.R.A.P. (Cheap Ridiculous Amateurish Powertool).
With that bandsaw it is even hard to cut 1/2" MDF, and you are very limited by the side clearance (3-5/8").
The Skil bandsaw seems better, but usually wood saws don't have the right speed to cut metal.
Personally I cut metal with an universal angle grinder stand like this one: http://grizzly.com/products/G8183 but it don't have clearance enough to cut a 2-1/2" pipe with a single stroke.
I suggest you to buy good cutting disks (Norton are not bad) and earcuffs ;)
 
Bandaw speeds for wood saws are about 10 to 30 times faster than for metal cutting and metal cutting requires higher blade tension. Neither of the saws you provided links for are appropriate for cutting steel. Metal cutting saws typically have a gear reduction to slow down the blade speed and the capability to provide higher blade tension. They might be marginally ok but not great for cutting aluminum or brass. Some people have converted wood saws to metal using a gear reduction and/or belt pulley reduction. My Dad had and old Walker Turner 14" he converted using a 20:1 gear reduction box that worked well but that was an old heavy duty industrial saw not a light weight! (I wish I had kept that when he passed away).

You would be better off with something like this:

http://www.grizzly.com/products/4-x-6-Metal-Cutting-Bandsaw/G0622

Or the Horror Fright version:

http://www.harborfreight.com/horizontal-vertical-metal-cutting-bandsaw-93762.html
 
If you are using the typical 18 gauge, mild steel, DOM steel U-bends, that we have all used since time began, keep at it with the chop saw, and just buy the best two pairs of Wiss tin snips you can afford. One Red pair and one Green pair. Use the chop saw to get close, and then trim to perfection with the tin snips. Old snips wear out and result in slivers of metal slipping between the blades.

I doubt anyone here can consistently cut on "on the line" with "any" sort of band saw. New tin snips will cut any line you can draw. A strong guy can cut 1/16" or 16 gauge DOM mild steel, but it will probably cause carpal tunnel injury, if you continue squeezing that hard for an extended time. I don't think Godzilla himself could cut stainless steel U-bends with tin snips.

Its hard to beat a cheapee air whizzer, with a three inch disk, for getting rid of the dross. If you can see it, a whizzer can cut it.

And don't forget a common, old bench grinder with a slightly rounded stone (which most well used grinding stones look like anyway).

I found that U-bend suppliers, usually offer at least three radius bends for each diameter tube. Stock up and the fished job will be better.

Also, I like J-bends better than U-bends, as once in a while, you can save a weld, and the finished job looks tons better.

Try to avoid any cuts that aren't directed through the center of the radius of the U-bend. That is why you buy ALL the different radius bends you can get. When you cut though the curved portion of a U-bend, the diameter will be slightly smaller than a length cut from a straight section, and it will stand out as ugly when you are done. So cut and join I two curves or two straight sections, not one curve and one straight.

jaded13640 said:
Hi guys, I'm getting ready to build a set of exhaust headers for the race car and was thinking about getting a band saw for cutting the tubing. Anyone that's made headers will know why a band saw would be really handy. The mandral bends you can buy are never exactly what you need right out of the box. You have to cut multiple slices out of the radisus in order to make some bends "tight" enough and the opposite is the case when you only need a slight about of curve.

The last set I built I used my abrasive wheel chop saw. It works fine but what a noisey dusty, messy process! Even my good milwalki doesn't make cuts in tubing very straight. So then I would be stuck side wheeling/griding to get that perfect fit.

Harbor freight has a portable band saw. It has a really wide blade that doesn't bend much. I worked for a guy that mounted an aluminum plate to it so he could mount it in a vise. He's built at least 50 funny car chassis with it and who knows how many roll cages. The problem is it comes with wood blade and they don't even offer a 24 or higher tooth blade. They're available at home depot but it just seems like a big pain in the neck when for not much more I could get the cheap "regular" band saw.

http://www.harborfreight.com/9-in-bench-top-band-saw-60500.html This is their 9in saw. The reviews mostly say they wouldn't recommend it for cutting steel. I would agree that's no doublt true if you were trying to cut 3" thick flat stock with it. But I would think it would handle 16 gauge mild steel tubing?

What do you guys think about that saw for my project?

While roaming craigs list I noticed one that is a 10" but appears to be much beefier from the pic. Here's the link? http://flint.craigslist.org/tls/4504723256.html

I haven't even started building the flanges yet nor have I purchased any bends so I have some time to make the decision. I could just use the chop saw again but what a noisy mess! On the other hand other than this project I can't see a band saw getting used much at all.

Any advice would be greatly appreciated,

Wayne
Click to expand...
 
jaded13640 said:
Hi guys, I'm getting ready to build a set of exhaust headers for the race car and was thinking about getting a band saw for cutting the tubing. Anyone that's made headers will know why a band saw would be really handy. The mandral bends you can buy are never exactly what you need right out of the box. You have to cut multiple slices out of the radisus in order to make some bends "tight" enough and the opposite is the case when you only need a slight about of curve.

The last set I built I used my abrasive wheel chop saw. It works fine but what a noisey dusty, messy process! Even my good milwalki doesn't make cuts in tubing very straight. So then I would be stuck side wheeling/griding to get that perfect fit.

Harbor freight has a portable band saw. It has a really wide blade that doesn't bend much. I worked for a guy that mounted an aluminum plate to it so he could mount it in a vise. He's built at least 50 funny car chassis with it and who knows how many roll cages. The problem is it comes with wood blade and they don't even offer a 24 or higher tooth blade. They're available at home depot but it just seems like a big pain in the neck when for not much more I could get the cheap "regular" band saw.

http://www.harborfreight.com/9-in-bench-top-band-saw-60500.html This is their 9in saw. The reviews mostly say they wouldn't recommend it for cutting steel. I would agree that's no doublt true if you were trying to cut 3" thick flat stock with it. But I would think it would handle 16 gauge mild steel tubing?

What do you guys think about that saw for my project?

While roaming craigs list I noticed one that is a 10" but appears to be much beefier from the pic. Here's the link? http://flint.craigslist.org/tls/4504723256.html

I haven't even started building the flanges yet nor have I purchased any bends so I have some time to make the decision. I could just use the chop saw again but what a noisy mess! On the other hand other than this project I can't see a band saw getting used much at all.

Any advice would be greatly appreciated,

Wayne
Click to expand...

I used Do All band saws at work. You might want a wider blade to cut steel. The metal saws have better guides and bearings. I agree with you about abrasive cutoff saws. They are good but wheels wear quickly, noisy and dirty.
 
avoid any of those little bench band saws for steel. I have a similar one and it'll cut alu okay, brass sort of and just has a fit if I show it a piece of steel.
 
I have three band saws.

I have my old 14" Import floor standing model that was designed for wood, but I converted to a slow speed for metals. I put a 1725 rpm motor on it and then reduced the drive by adding a jack shaft which then made it a 3-way reduction from 3000 fpm to 107 fpm. Works great for all metals. You CAN cut softer, non-ferrous metals around 1000 to 1500 fpm (double reduction). Steel HAS to be cut around 60 to 200 fpm max if you don't want to ruin the blade. I primarily use this for cutting forms/shapes as opposed to just straight lines. I have a whole assortment of metal and wood blades ranging from 1/8" to 3/4" wide. I also made a 6" extender that opens the throat to 14" to cut logs for wood bowl blanks (I turn wood too). I run a 104 1/2" blade length and I have them custom made by a local guy.

I also have the HF horizontal band saw that I use for cut off work, LOVE IT! I added a custom hydraulic feed so it's a set-it-and-forget-it saw.

Then, I have the little HF portable that has been discussed here and it works good too for quick cut off work. I use it for smaller quick jobs and pipe, conduit, etc. that can be chucked in the vise.

I think that a real muffler shops use a carbide-tip blade chop saw that runs coolant. They're the best with no sparks or dust, but kinda expensive for a hobbyist.

Rule of thumb for feet per minute blade speeds:

2500-3000 for wood
1000 - 1500 for non-ferrous metal (alum, brass, etc.)
60-200 for Steel.

To calculate your blade speed:

Motor speed X drive pulley diameter / driven pulley diameter (do it again if double or even triple reduction) X blade wheel diameter X Pi (3.412) / 12.
 
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