The Stars Have Been In Alignment For Me This Week. Just Got My First Lathe, A D/r 11x36, 25-100

Well, I have made all the shafts I will replace. I still need to cut keyways in two of them and an oil groove in another. I went ahead and replaced the shaft that holds the clutch gear. That gave me my first experience of threading. It has a 3/8X24 threaded end that threads into the handle that engages the clutch. Turned out well. Forgot to get a picture of it.
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So far, in doing this lathe rebuild, I have had to do the following tasks on the South Bend lathe:

- Turning outside diameter
- Parting-off
- Chamfering
- Mandrel making and use
- screw threading
- Making bushings
- tool bit grinding
- Use of Palmgren milling attachment for drilling an angled oil hole in a shaft

On Monday I'll learn how to use a boring bar to turn down the inside diameter of the pulley gear bushings that go on the spindle. CouldnT find the right size bushings, so I ordered bushings with the right outside diameter and extra meat on the inside, so I can turn it down to fit the newly ground journal on the spindle. Turned out the bushings were about .007 too large on the outside diameter, so I had to turn a mandrel out of a piece of scrap aluminum I had (the only thing I had that was a large enough diameter). I slipped the bushings onto the mandrel and fixed them there with red loctite, then turned the outside diameter down .005, to make a press fit into the pulley gear. Learned a little idiosyncrasy of my South Bend lathe. The cross slide nut has enough wear that it is somewhat inconsistent in movement, and I can't rely on the mic collar for increments. One bushing came out to be a tight slip fit, instead of a press fit, so I'll have to set that one with bearing set. Here you see me turning off the last .002 off the outside diameter of one of the bushings.

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Now, I have a question.

After fitting and installing the bushing for the worm, I cannot figure how this bushing get lubricated. There is no oil hole and nothing to drip oil onto it. I am considering drilling an oil hole where I can at least oil it manually occasionally. If any of you happen to have your apron off, would you please take a look at the worm and tell me how its bushing gets lubricated? It's possible there is supposed to be an oil hole or something that never got drilled at the factory.

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I still need to by a small burr for my Dremel, so I can make oiling grooves in some of the longer bushings and also inside the apron compound gear.

Just waiting for one MCL-271 tumbler gear to be able to get things back together. I'm also watching for a cross slide screw in either NOS or excellent condition. I've already located a good nut.

Had a nice warm couple days, in which I was hoping to be able to paint some parts. Just ran out of day and energy.

It's all coming along, slowly, but surely. I'm sure enjoying it.

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Well, here's me trying my hand at using a boring bar to turn down the inside diameter of a pulley gear bushing for my DR11. I chucked the pulley gear in the 4-jaw and dialed it down to under .0005 runout on both the large end (pulley side) and inside the gear end. I pressed in the bushings and cut them installed, because it seemed to me the best way to hold them for turning. I was actually able to freeze the bushing and it became a tight slip fit, so I slipped it in place for turning. I'm turning them down to about .015 under-sized, then I'll take them to a local machine shop (the one that turned the spindle journal) to have them hone the bushings to fit the spindle. That should make sure everything is concentric and smooth. So far, so good.

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Just heard from the guy who is making the tumbler gears. I should be getting one within a couple weeks. Still shopping for a cross slide screw and nut.

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looks like you're making great progress and learning a lot in the process! Best way to do it IMO. Have a great Christmas!
 
The spindle and pulley gear are at the machine shop for final fitting and my tumbler gear is on the way. I got the headstock casting sanded and just about ready for a fresh coat of paint.

I won't get much done this week, because I have family visiting for the holidays. Family time takes precedence.:))
 
Tony, did you ever get that list you ordered from McMaster Carr? I tore into my apron and am finding that every bushing needs replaced, I am assuming that the QCGB will require the same. I talked with Dick Triemstra today, we were talking about the wear my machine has, it sounds like mine did a lot of rough or heavy turning during its life. Tim
 
I've been a little disconnected this week and last, because I have family visiting. I'll see if I can post a list here in the next day or two.

It seems like I ended up replacing 17 bushings, most of which came from the gear box. I have them all ready, but haven't installed them yet.
 
Received my MCL-271 tumbler gear from a member of the Yahoo group yesterday. It is very nice. All critical dimensions are exact to the .001 in comparison to my original. Fit and finish is excellent. Worth the $80 (inc shipping) I paid for it. In the third pic you see the tumbler levers assembled with the new MCL-271 and MCL-404 tumbler gears. That was the last of the replacement parts I was waiting for in the apron, headstock, and QCGB. I am still planning on replacing the cross feed screw and nut, but I can wait on that a while. Still looking for NOS or almost new condition.

I should be able to start reassembly next week. Looking forward to it.

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Tim,

These are the part numbers and descriptions of the bushings I bought for the headstock, QCGB, and apron. They were ordered from McMaster-Carr. Several of them had to be trimmed shorter, a couple were cut to make two bushings from one part, and some had to be turned to size. I will indicate details on the list.

2 - 6381k452 3/8" shaft diameter, 1/2" OD, 5/8" length
1 - 6381K528 9/16'' shaft diameter, 3/4 OD, 1" length
3 - 6381K467 1/2" shaft diameter, 5/8" OD, 1/2" length
7 - 6381K468 " " , 5/8" length
3 - 6381K182 3/4" shaft diameter, 15/16" OD, 2" length (cut into 4 bushings 3/4" in length and one 1")
1 - 6381K171 3/4" shaft diameter, 7/8" OD, 1" length
1 - 6381K567 1-1/8" shaft diameter, 1-3/8" OD, 1" length (for worm, OD must be turned down to about 1-1/4")
1 - 6381K47 1/2" shaft diameter, 5/8" OD, 3/4" length
1 - 6381K111 1/2" shaft diameter, 5/8" OD, 1" length
2 - 6381K341 1-3/4 shaft diameter, 2-1/4" OD, 1-3/4" length (for pulley gear on the spindle, OD cut for press fit, ID cut to fit journal on spindle - about 2", trimmed to about 1-1/2" length)

These do not include bushings for the end gears and one more gear in the apron, which I still need to order. As I recall I will still need four more of 6381K468 1/2" ID X 5/8" OD X 5/8" L, for the end gears and one more gear in the apron. Theses will need to be faced to the width of the gear they will be pressed into.

These bushings are pre-sized for the indicated shaft sizes, so they don't need to be reamed. Most leave about .002 clearance for a slip fit. I replaced any shaft that showed any appreciable wear. You may wish to use bushings to be reamed to fit your shafts, but I didn't worry about it, since they are mostly for low-speed application in areas that do not require ultra-accurate clearances. The exceptions were the large bushings for the spindle, for which I had the spindle journal reground and the bushings finished to size by the machine shop. All listed bushings are 932 Bronze.

Hope that helps.
 
The TGP (turned, ground, polished) 1045 was recommended to me, so that's what I used. I don't yet know enough about metals to make a recommendation. The 1045 machined well for me and gave me very nicely finished surfaces on those parts I had to turn down.

I still need to cut the keyways in my shafts. I'll likely get to that next week.
 
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