Tankless Water Heater Troubles

No not 62%. You forgot to add the entire volume. Let's say 14 gallons total and I used 5 glycol. Wouldn't that be 5/14 = 35%?

Snowing her to beat the band. Not snowing in Wisco?
 
ddickey said:
No not 62%. You forgot to add the entire volume. Let's say 14 gallons total and I used 5 glycol. Wouldn't that be 5/14 = 35%?
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Errmm. Well, heck, I don't know. LOL.
If you used 4 gallons to the 8 gallons that would be 50%. Right? 50-50 mix.
So 5 gallons to 8 gallons (which is 13 gallons btw) is 5/8=.62 or 62%

Not snowing yet.
 
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lol you got me thinking now.
And yes to 5 gallons to eight is 62% but that is assuming you have a total capacity of 8 gallons.
Lets say total volume in the system is 14 gallons. I'd have to add 7 gallons of glycol and 7 of water to get a 50% mix.
Think of it this way. If I used 4 gallons of glycol according to what you're saying I'd have a 50% mix but then I'd have to add 4 gallons of water 50/50 but I'm still short 5 gallons in the system (assuming 13 gallons).
 
ddickey said:
Also the heater is squealing and squawking ex
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ddickey said:
the real cause of it getting louder is when you increase the output temperature.
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The sound from the video reminds me of boiler hammer that I heard at the plant where I worked many moons ago. The noise is caused by steam rapidly condensing to water and creating a vacuum. That is similar to propeller cavitation where small air bubbles rapidly collapse and create vibration from rapid pressure changes.

From what you have written I think that you might just need to raise the temperature of the system more gradually. If the heating element is too hot with respect to the heat transfer rate then there could be small bubbles of steam that develop on the surface of the heater that collapse rapidly. Adjusting flow rates and glycol mix to optimum values will certainly help but I suspect that giving the system more time to stabilize will do the most good. Avoid the noise at all costs, that type of vibration can be very damaging to the system.
 
You might be right but I can't do that. The problem is the air temp increases and the temp controller shuts off the pump then the heater shuts down so there is never really a nice heat up on the return supply. The return temp is ~62° give or take depending on how long it has been running. I could lower the output temp maybe that would cause it to run longer and increase the temp of the return, idk worth a try. But still if you think about it water coming from a well has got to be less than 62°. So the normal configuration of this heater would be to heat water for use in the shower or sink or whatever.
 
Here is a picture of my system in my shop. I have been using it for about 5 years now. I had a lot of issues trying to get all the air out of it. It would circulate ok and when it shut off, it would cavitate and not flow. Each time I thought it was bled out I would crack a valve and more air would blow out.
Joe

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Liljoebrshooter said:
Here is a picture of my system in my shop. I have been using it for about 5 years now. I had a lot of issues trying to get all the air out of it. It would circulate ok and when it shut off, it would cavitate and not flow. Each time I thought it was bled out I would crack a valve and more air would blow out.
Joe

View attachment 348888
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Expansion tank should not be hanging like that. The weight of the water kinda kills the expansion capabilities.
 
Depends on what is high. I know it is slightly acidic about the same as a tomato from what I understand.
My heater is a goner? Well that was quick. Less than a month.
My expansion tank sits the same as Liljoebrshooter but mine is small @ 2.2 gallons.
 
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The expansion tank when installed upright would trap air as well. The air valve is supposed to be on top.

PS Amtrol shows their thermal expansion tanks mounted as Duane has done.
 
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