Thanks Niels. That's good information to have.
Keep up the good work!
-Ron
Keep up the good work!
-Ron
-
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Tangential Tool Holder
- Thread starter FarFar
- Start date
Here comes tangential Cheapo for a single size off toolbitts.
Make a block as shown on first picture where the 12 degree canted hole is equal or sligthly under diagonal measure of prefered tool bit size (My is favourite 5 mm square )
Put a tool bit in and give it a real squeeze in a hydraulic press.
Remove tool bitt and mill various surfaces (I do it in my lathe) and You could maybe end up with a very cheap and fast made tool for rest of Your mashining career
If You try it please tell us your learning curve.
Regards
Farfar
Make a block as shown on first picture where the 12 degree canted hole is equal or sligthly under diagonal measure of prefered tool bit size (My is favourite 5 mm square )
Put a tool bit in and give it a real squeeze in a hydraulic press.
Remove tool bitt and mill various surfaces (I do it in my lathe) and You could maybe end up with a very cheap and fast made tool for rest of Your mashining career
If You try it please tell us your learning curve.
Regards
Farfar
Decided to try the cheapest possible way of having a tangential tool holder.
Four drilled holes ;a real squeze and let us see how it works.
The shop with a 20 ton press opens on monday so I feel like writing now.
First picture shows what I am aiming at.
By the way there is more reading on my holders here http://www.homemodelenginemachinist.com/f13/another-reason-buy-make-diamond-tool-holder-10702/ .
The reason for not trying the press version until now was concern about getting heat away from toolbit through the less than perfect jaw zone.
In the meantime I have become phrophet of 3/16 times 2.5 inch Crobalt 15 dollar each and very fast delivery.This material tolerates an awfull lot of mistreating and prefers no cooling.
I made a test on some scrap steel comparing swedish WKE 45 HSS and Crobalt toolbits.If there is a difference in surface quality ,WKE 45 was best ,but very,very little and tool life was not comparable.
Next two pictures show machining and third picture is quality control.Very important
Kind regards
Four drilled holes ;a real squeze and let us see how it works.
The shop with a 20 ton press opens on monday so I feel like writing now.
First picture shows what I am aiming at.
By the way there is more reading on my holders here http://www.homemodelenginemachinist.com/f13/another-reason-buy-make-diamond-tool-holder-10702/ .
The reason for not trying the press version until now was concern about getting heat away from toolbit through the less than perfect jaw zone.
In the meantime I have become phrophet of 3/16 times 2.5 inch Crobalt 15 dollar each and very fast delivery.This material tolerates an awfull lot of mistreating and prefers no cooling.
I made a test on some scrap steel comparing swedish WKE 45 HSS and Crobalt toolbits.If there is a difference in surface quality ,WKE 45 was best ,but very,very little and tool life was not comparable.
Next two pictures show machining and third picture is quality control.Very important
Kind regards
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Death of a dream
First picture shows result of 10 tons squeze and second a close up.Forming of square channel is fantastic and forming tool Crobalt is unharmed,but spring back is more than .5 mm and screw cannot haul it back.
Third picture LOOK MOM.NO MILLING MASHINE is my next journey.
Regards
Farfar
First picture shows result of 10 tons squeze and second a close up.Forming of square channel is fantastic and forming tool Crobalt is unharmed,but spring back is more than .5 mm and screw cannot haul it back.
Third picture LOOK MOM.NO MILLING MASHINE is my next journey.
Regards
Farfar
Niels, If you didn't try, you would never know if you could do it. Maybe if you re think the process, you may be able to get it the second time around. I have to ask why the large hole behind the cutter? Buy the sounds of it , your working without a milling machine too. If that's the case, it certainly would make many jobs very challenging to say the least. I still use the same design you come up with years ago, and have not seen any reason to improve on it. But, that could change, depending on what you come up with. Im sure you will tackle the job with a different approach, and have success, its only a matter of time.
Hello Paul and thank You for getting the spirit back.
The facts as I see them are
The version with pulling tool bitt into end of body is best but expensive to make with wire sparking.
The scrapped press thing had very good channel corners and Crobalt twas unharmed.
I will try to combine
Regards Niels
The facts as I see them are
The version with pulling tool bitt into end of body is best but expensive to make with wire sparking.
The scrapped press thing had very good channel corners and Crobalt twas unharmed.
I will try to combine
Regards Niels
Neils, I have never made a tool holder of any nature. But looking at the model that was made by squeezing the holder, I have to wonder. When you shaped the hole, you simply sprung the tool holder and it sprung back. Could you make a wide cut between the two holes, reinsert the Crobalt tool and press between the Crobalt and small hole, permantently deforming the holder to conform with the tool?
Bill
Bill
Hello Erik
If You have a milling machine,no big deal.
Please open the link to HMEM and see how it can be done to make a much stiffer clone of the Australian Diamond tool holder.
As You remember I bougth a milling machine from You but sold it cheaply together with a very good Harrison lathe to lessen the wrath of gods,as my wife got very ill from borelia.
It kind of worked as wife survived and we are still together.
I missed both lathe and milling machine later.
Got me a very unused Boxford and has improved it .
For milling jobs I either try to do it in lathe or design it away or go to a friend that has every kind of machine.
If You mill it put in a tool bitt and give it a squeze.You cannot make the corners sharp enough by milling but pressing toolbit or Crobalt will.
Try and let us see some pictures.
If You have a milling machine,no big deal.
Please open the link to HMEM and see how it can be done to make a much stiffer clone of the Australian Diamond tool holder.
As You remember I bougth a milling machine from You but sold it cheaply together with a very good Harrison lathe to lessen the wrath of gods,as my wife got very ill from borelia.
It kind of worked as wife survived and we are still together.
I missed both lathe and milling machine later.
Got me a very unused Boxford and has improved it .
For milling jobs I either try to do it in lathe or design it away or go to a friend that has every kind of machine.
If You mill it put in a tool bitt and give it a squeze.You cannot make the corners sharp enough by milling but pressing toolbit or Crobalt will.
Try and let us see some pictures.