Taiwan made keyless chuck

[murraym]

I have this import copy of an albrecht chuck. It was made in taiwan. I am in search of the jaw guide. I need a spindle screw as well but i don't want to purchase the whole spindle/ body. I would guess that the true albrecht parts would fit and i may buy one of i cannot source a decent replacement. I can probably make the spindle screw. I believe it's a model c100-j33. Any guidance is appreciated. Thank you in advance.
Mike

 

[extropic]

I got on an Albrecht chuck expedition a while back. I bought, over time, about 6 or 8 used chucks (C130 and C160 sizes) that had various problems.
I disassembled, evaluated and repaired them as I saw fit. I mention all that so you can have some idea of my experience with keyless chuck innards.

I've seen scarred jaws, bowed jaws, galled spindle threads, distorted and cracked hoods and probably some other types of damage that don't come to mind right now. I bought OEM Albrecht replacement parts as needed and I think I ended up with one fewer chucks than I had bought, because I didn't want to invest in enough new parts for that last one. As you must be aware, the OEM parts are dear.

None of my spindle heads were broken into bits and I don't think I rejected any jaw guides. The Albrecht instructions say NOT to lubricate the spindle threads when assembling, which is counter-intuitive to say the least. Neither the body or spindle are what I would call full HARD, which further puzzles me about the "don't lube" instruction. All that represents that your situation is not the same as mine and there are technical details of the Albrecht chuck that I'm not completely comfortable with yet. Based on the longstanding success of the Albrecht design, I assume it's me that needs more education to dispel that discomfort.

I'm wondering if your spindle is so hard as to be brittle? Or, how in the world did it get reduced to bits? I thought the OEM body and spindle were softer than I expected.

Given that I've seen at least two C160 chucks that were tightened so much that the hoods CRACKED and I don't remember rejecting any jaw guides, I'm wondering what is wrong with your jaw guide and how you think that happened. I think it's curious that you need a jaw guide but didn't mention needing new jaws. Also, I recommend that you inspect the hood looking for distortion resulting from excessive overtightening of the jaws.

Your guess that OEM Albrecht parts will interchange correctly indicates that you are more of an optimist than I am.

I acknowledge that the preceding is too lengthy to fit the attention span of many, however I'll try to sum up with some bullet points.

Good luck making a replacement spindle or body/spindle set. My opinion: that's why we call it a hobby.

Good luck finding a replacement jaw guide that fits properly.

I hope your hood is still round, not tri-lobed at the jaw contact areas.

Buying a new Shars or Precision Mathews chuck (or any other well reviewed model) will leave you time and money ahead, but rob you of some genuine learning experiences.

Let us know how you proceed.

 

[murraym]

I got on an Albrecht chuck expedition a while back. I bought, over time, about 6 or 8 used chucks (C130 and C160 sizes) that had various problems.
I disassembled, evaluated and repaired them as I saw fit. I mention all that so you can have some idea of my experience with keyless chuck innards.

I've seen scarred jaws, bowed jaws, galled spindle threads, distorted and cracked hoods and probably some other types of damage that don't come to mind right now. I bought OEM Albrecht replacement parts as needed and I think I ended up with one fewer chucks than I had bought, because I didn't want to invest in enough new parts for that last one. As you must be aware, the OEM parts are dear.

None of my spindle heads were broken into bits and I don't think I rejected any jaw guides. The Albrecht instructions say NOT to lubricate the spindle threads when assembling, which is counter-intuitive to say the least. Neither the body or spindle are what I would call full HARD, which further puzzles me about the "don't lube" instruction. All that represents that your situation is not the same as mine and there are technical details of the Albrecht chuck that I'm not completely comfortable with yet. Based on the longstanding success of the Albrecht design, I assume it's me that needs more education to dispel that discomfort.

I'm wondering if your spindle is so hard as to be brittle? Or, how in the world did it get reduced to bits? I thought the OEM body and spindle were softer than I expected.

Given that I've seen at least two C160 chucks that were tightened so much that the hoods CRACKED and I don't remember rejecting any jaw guides, I'm wondering what is wrong with your jaw guide and how you think that happened. I think it's curious that you need a jaw guide but didn't mention needing new jaws. Also, I recommend that you inspect the hood looking for distortion resulting from excessive overtightening of the jaws.

Your guess that OEM Albrecht parts will interchange correctly indicates that you are more of an optimist than I am.

I acknowledge that the preceding is too lengthy to fit the attention span of many, however I'll try to sum up with some bullet points.

Good luck making a replacement spindle or body/spindle set. My opinion: that's why we call it a hobby.

Good luck finding a replacement jaw guide that fits properly.

I hope your hood is still round, not tri-lobed at the jaw contact areas.

Buying a new Shars or Precision Mathews chuck (or any other well reviewed model) will leave you time and money ahead, but rob you of some genuine learning experiences.

Let us know how you proceed.

I'm not really sure why it broke although i was using a 1" silver and demming bit into an existing 1/2" hole. Maybe it was overloaded. The jaw guide guide is cracked at the bottom of the slots where the jaws belong.
I suppose i thought i could repair it and be cost effective but after reviewing the shars website, the comparable drill chuck with an arbor is like $36. Suppose I'll buy 3.

 

[mksj]

I would not use a S&D or oversized drill in any keyless chuck, due to the forces and self tightening, it is guaranteed to destroy the chuck at some point. I learned that the hard way with a Glacern 1/2" keyless chuck with an integrated R8 arbor, the arbor part in the chuck fractured. I will only use S&D drills in a keyed chuck and being careful not to push it too hard. Shar's Tegara drill chucks are made in Taiwan and quite nice at a reasonable price, I also have two Llambrich keyless chucks that work quite well but more costly these days.

Any drill with flats on the shank are hard to line up with the jaws using a keyless chuck, and do not allow any slip if they suddenly bind up while drilling. Replacing the drill is far less costly then replacing the chuck.

Drill Chucks & Arbor

Shop Shars Tool today and see why customers choose our high quality drill chucks at a great value, same-day shipping, and dedicated customer support.

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Glacern 1/2" keyless chuck fractured using a S&D drill.

 

[Eddyde]

Yes, the diametral limit for any keyless chuck is its capacity. A ½" chuck should not be use to hold anything over a ½" drill. Use a keyed chuck for S&D drills.

 

[extropic]

I appreciate reading the experience of the other contributors. It seems that Taiwan chucks have brittle hard spindles and Albrecht chucks don't.

 

[IHinIN]

The Albrecht instructions say NOT to lubricate the spindle threads when assembling, which is counter-intuitive to say the least.

The chuck won’t lock down and stay tight if the threads are oiled. I bought a used 3/8” Albrecht that wouldn’t stay tight. I oiled it which made it worse. After reading that it’s not supposed to be lubricated, I flushed it out with mineral spirits and it now locks down tight and stays tight.

 

[woodchucker]

I'm not really sure why it broke although i was using a 1" silver and demming bit into an existing 1/2" hole. Maybe it was overloaded. The jaw guide guide is cracked at the bottom of the slots where the jaws belong.
I suppose i thought i could repair it and be cost effective but after reviewing the shars website, the comparable drill chuck with an arbor is like $36. Suppose I'll buy 3.

yea it was. It's why I don't use these . Especially with Silver and demming. They tighten like crazy. I doubt albrecht parts will fit...

 

[murraym]

Thank you for all your insights. Looks like i will be sourcing a new chuck and try to be better about abusing it. I have some nice jacobs keyed chucks too. If only i knew.

 

[durableoreo]

I recommend the Llambrich. Had problems with the Tegara. I spun a bunch of drills, from 1/8 to 3/8, while trying everything in my power not to. Eventually I realized I would need to resort to the wrench, which defeats the purpose. Then mksj turned me on the Llambrich chucks. The difference is night and day.