Surface Grinder for a hobbyist

@projectnut - thanks for posting the brochure. That is generally what I pictured it would look like stock. Kinda too bad that someone cut it.

Nice tidy shop by the way!
 
There's an auction next week, west of Atlanta in Alabama. (4) hours from us.
There's three SGs from large to small - this one.
Inspection is on Monday but I'm not sure I'm up to an (8) road trip and it doesn't appear to be under power anyway.
Not sure what to make of the fact that it's strapped to pallet...

1591369302154.png
 
We had a manual 6-12 DoAll back when I was an apprentice, that looks like 6-18 manual. Was OK grinder. As I remember the wheel head did not go up as high as the others we had (Harig, Boyar Shultz, Brown & Sharpe). Hard to see from the photos, might be obscured by the diamond dresser, but perhaps missing the table left-right travel stops?

We also had a hydraulic DoAll 10-12 x 18-24 ish wet grinder that was real workhorse. Got used most every day, and was still going strong at 30 years.

If it is cheap enough and loading fee isn't bad, a decent grinder.
 
I think I have you beat; I got my 6 X 18 B&S Micromaster for free, only had to go to near Fremont to pick it up.

mine also came with a microvu comparator and a winslow exactomatic drill sharpener with dust filter and attachments.
i had to drive 5 miles to get them tho'

i use the grinder and winslow a fair amount. the comparator - have yet to have a need but it don't take up much space.
 
7milesup asked about cutter sharpening on a surface grinder. This is the setup I made for woodworking shaper and router cutters.

cutter grinder a.jpg

There's a 3/4" arbor I use for 3/4" bore shaper cutters and 1 1/4" bore cutters with a sleeve. There's a router chuck for 1/4" and 1/2" shank router cutters and 1/2" bore shaper cutters with a stub spindle.

The base has a dovetailed slide made from milled and ground 1/4" steel plate. It's set at a slight angle so sliding 0.001" advances the depth of cut 0.0001". I find 0.0003" to 0.0005" is a good grind.

cutter grinder b.jpg


The arbor turns in these composite bearing blocks. It's ground for a very snug fit, and I like the action. These aren't high precision bearings, and there is more runout in the arbor than I'd want to grind metalworking cutters; but it works well for this. I've since added an extra brake on the arbor.

cutter grinder c.jpg


Mouldings are a big part of my woodworking. When I got this grinder working, I erased years of embarassing, haphazard sharpening on some of these.

cutter cabinet.jpg


The curved details on this little round table are done with small diameter, very sharp steel cutters. They cut delicate parts with minimum cutting force, and they get in and out quickly on the concave edge cuts. This will be ready to varnish in a couple days.
small round table.jpg
 
7milesup asked about cutter sharpening on a surface grinder. This is the setup I made for woodworking shaper and router cutters.

View attachment 326634
There's a 3/4" arbor I use for 3/4" bore shaper cutters and 1 1/4" bore cutters with a sleeve. There's a router chuck for 1/4" and 1/2" shank router cutters and 1/2" bore shaper cutters with a stub spindle.

The base has a dovetailed slide made from milled and ground 1/4" steel plate. It's set at a slight angle so sliding 0.001" advances the depth of cut 0.0001". I find 0.0003" to 0.0005" is a good grind.

View attachment 326637

The arbor turns in these composite bearing blocks. It's ground for a very snug fit, and I like the action. These aren't high precision bearings, and there is more runout in the arbor than I'd want to grind metalworking cutters; but it works well for this. I've since added an extra brake on the arbor.

View attachment 326638

Mouldings are a big part of my woodworking. When I got this grinder working, I erased years of embarassing, haphazard sharpening on some of these.

View attachment 326640

The curved details on this little round table are done with small diameter, very sharp steel cutters. They cut delicate parts with minimum cutting force, and they get in and out quickly on the concave edge cuts. This will be ready to varnish in a couple days.View attachment 326641

That is some beautiful work John, truly gorgeous.


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Have to go over it very carefully.
A gent I met here in the area quite awhile ago has a Boyer and Shultz. He bought w/o it being under power.
Spindle was fine, table was toast. Unfortunately it is sitting in the corner of his shop gathering dust when last I saw it.

There seems to be few parting out the machines. I have 612 with no guard , no oil pump, no intake dust chute and a 618 with no covers for the motor side of the upright .Not every part is interchangeable year to year either. Also missing some stops. Would be nice to buy cheap since they will eventually go for 2 cents a pound to the scrap yard. Saw a guy selling one the other day that had been drop during shipment and bent lift components maybe broke riser. Wish I'd got to it a few minutes earlier. It sold for scrap . prices. Nothing that can't be fab with a lot of time.
Have to go over it very carefully.
A gent I met here in the area quite awhile ago has a Boyer and Shultz. He bought w/o it being under power.
Spindle was fine, table was toast. Unfortunately it is sitting in the corner of his shop gathering dust when last I saw it.
 
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