Southbend 9 x 48 - How worn is too worn?

[Taz]

It's really too bad this thing has munched up ways. After cleaning the amber off them, you can still see the original scraping on about 60-70% of the surface. They are so UN-Worn everywhere else, and the ridge at the top is so UN-touched, I think I'll get a very long way just clamping a piece of precision ground steel over the wear, with a port drilled in the center, and injecting some Moglice.

Working on the QCTP base right now... Pics to come!


Chad

 

[Taz]

Guess you can't do much with those old tool posts, so...


Chuck turned out pretty good.


Virtually un-touched tail end.


Too much fun!
Chad

 

[Taz]

Oh boy... This is going to take a minute...







Chad

 

[radial1951]

Oh boy... This is going to take a minute... Chad

Hi Chad, Would you mind posting a pic of the rear of the cabinet showing how the countershaft/motor bracket is mounted? I'm thinking about buying a chineeese metal cabinet for my SB9" (also a '47) but I'm not sure about hanging the drive off the back and worried about it being back heavy and unstable. Do you think the setup is safe? Do the metal cabinets drum and rattle etc? I don't really feel like building a timber bench right now...

BTW, I reckon your SB will be just fine. I think you will be surprised that a few thous drop in the saddle over that distance will have little effect on the accuracy of average sized turned parts (Unless long and very small diameter). New felts, keep it clean and well oiled, and it will outlast all of us!

Regards, RossG
radial1951
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[woodtickgreg]

Your off to a great start! Keep postin pics of the progress, it's a lot of fun for us to watch a project come together.

 

[Taz]

Hi Chad, Would you mind posting a pic of the rear of the cabinet showing how the countershaft/motor bracket is mounted?

Regards, RossG
radial1951
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Thanks for the encouragement... I'm not scheduled to start work on the nuclear power plant, or the spaceship till next month, so I think I have at least that long before I need to worry about trillionths!

The pics below should get you going. The lathe feet sit on channel iron to lift it above the tray lip. The piece under the head extends backward and over the lip, to create the mount. The vertical piece serves as a stop/tensioner, so when you lock the belt down there's more than just the belt keeping it locked. I don't really think this is all original stuff, but as far as operating goes, it doesn't sound or feel scary in the least. It doesn't vibrate or bounce at all, and right now the whole thing is mounted on cheap and broken castors. To be fair though, that stand is made of thicker steel than you'll find in most things these days.

Left

Left Close


Right

Right Close


Front


Back



Chad

 

[Taz]

Your off to a great start! Keep postin pics of the progress, it's a lot of fun for us to watch a project come together.

Ask and you shall receive!

More clean stuff!


More stuff getting clean, God bless evaporust!



I just can't bring myself to paint a work of art grey, or black. This is the base, the final coat will give it a wide peened look. You can look in my images to see a sample of the finished color on my vise, but here's the first piece on its way to Wong pretty again!



Chad

 

[radial1951]

....The pics below should get you going. The lathe feet sit on channel iron to lift it above the tray lip. The piece under the head extends backward and over the lip, to create the mount. The vertical piece serves as a stop/tensioner, so when you lock the belt down there's more than just the belt keeping it locked. I don't really think this is all original stuff, but as far as operating goes, it doesn't sound or feel scary in the least. It doesn't vibrate or bounce at all, and right now the whole thing is mounted on cheap and broken castors. To be fair though, that stand is made of thicker steel than you'll find in most things these days. Chad

Hi Chad
Thanks heaps for the photos and your comments. Excellent info. Gives me confidence that the metal cabinet option is ok. BTW there is a recess in the back of the belt tensioning lever that rests on the pushrod when in the "belt tight" position. This allows it to lock just past the centre position in its toggle action. With the right belt correctly tensioned, you won't need that big vertical bit at the back... That Evaporust looks like it does a great job, paint and all.

BTW2, what is the Serial Number of your lathe. Mine is also a '47 model, bought new by my father, apparently one of the short production models without the front lip on the bed casting. Also has "SOUTH BEND" cast into the top surface of a couple of the bed strengthening ribs between the ways. I'll check my S/N when I get home later.

Thanks again and regards to all SBers from Oz.
RossG.
radial1951
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[Taz]

looks like it does a great job, paint and all.

BTW2, what is the Serial Number of your lathe.
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I've never been able to take paint off with Evaporust, but then again that's why I like it. It'll take black oxide off (since its basically rust), but other than that it leaves most everything else alone. Won't kill ya, doesn't stink, it's a little slow, but it doesn't appear to take off anything but oxididation. Ive left things in there for days and it didn't appear to be etching the metal.

The serial number is 170069, stamped J A N below it. I'm not positive it's a '47 but I found serial number very close that had details listed on another site.

BTW, thanks for the tip on the belt tensioner. I'd love to get rid of that monstrosity hanging off the back!

Chad

 

[corey607]

Nice find.

I can't wait to see the end result.