Not the same machine (1127 here). But the basic idea is the same. Accurately measure the height from the cross slide base to the top of the compound. That's the height. I made mine to overlap the cross slide surface and use the t-slots for mounting the block. Then make a stud to hold the QCTP down. It doesn't have to end up perfect, your tool holders will get you a fair bit of adjustment. Try to hit it close though, it simplifies adjusting the holders later.
I only swap to the compound when I want to turn tapers. Threading will have higher tool forces, but don't go nuts with the DOC and you will be fine. Remember that you are removing material from both sides equally, so you have to adjust how deep your passes are. Other than that, no changes needed.
This is a pic of my block on the machine with my knurler mounted. One change since then is that I'm using one of the bolts that goes through to the t-nuts to hold the tool post on the block. I ran into as issue with it loosening the way I had it before.
The main block is 7075 Aluminum. The top is precision ground steel. Only chosen because I had it on the shelf, the ground nature isn't required for this. If I had a block of cast iron available, that would have been my first choice, but the stuff was pretty expensive at the time, and the aluminum is holding up fine. The holes in the top of the steel are there to access the cap screws under it with a hex key. Keeps the top flat. Overall, it has been working great and does stiffen things up a fair bit.
This is just what I came up with to use what I had around. There are a million ways to do this, so pick one that works for you. One thing I would have changed if I had a bigger block available, would be to make it a little wider so the bolts holding it down are accessible with the QCTP (or other tool) mounted. It hasn't been a big enough issue to make a new one, but if I were starting at the beginning, that is something I would change.
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