Simple tilt table

randyjaco said:
Here is my take on the tilt table. When I saw it I knew it was a great idea, but it took up too much real estate on the mill. I thought that the T-slots would make a better location, so I made one 6”x 7” x ½” that could work either from the T-slot or the vise. I am using a machinist jack as a support , but still working a way to secure the distal end.

Randy
Click to expand...

I forgot that I have some Mitee-Bites, so I'll have to add some holes to mine. I like the T-slot idea, that has a lot of potential.
 
Nice work on the tilt tables.
I've been thinking about making one of these for a long time, but keep putting it off due to more important projects. Seeing these photos makes me want to dig out some scrap pieces and get started.

btm
 
They all look great, I like the idea of clamping to the table. As soon as I come up with a long piece of plate I'm going to make one for my little horizontal mill the whole length and width of the table, 5 X 20 should do it.
 
:)) I'm late to the party, but I do plan to make this simple and straightforward tilt table (I'll try to remember to take pictures). And when I do, I'm going to make two of the cylindrical parts. One will be made and used like those in the pictures posted in this thread, which is a notched but otherwise round piece that one clamps in the vise.

On the other part I'll go a bit further . . . once I've made it and bolted it to the tilt table itself, I'll get whatever is my most accurate angle-setter I have (a sine plate, in my case). I'll set the latter at, say, 30 degrees, clamp the simple tilt table to it, and mill a flat on the cylindrical part of the latter. Similarly for 45 degrees, 60 degrees, and whatever other commonly-used angles one wants. That way when I use the simple tilt table for common angles, I won't even have to use any other item to set it.

I assume that if one uses aluminum for the cylinder, it will eventually develop flats on the common angles anyway. Might as well mill 'em there to begin with. I'll use the other un-flatted cylinder for weird angles.

Caveat: this idea admittedly won't work as well if you're clamping the tilt table by the ends in your vise or if you're using it on the bare mill table.

DaRiddler
 
easymike29 said:
A spread sheet with appropriate calculations would make it relevant.

Gene
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I downloaded a spreadsheet with Inch and Metric spacers for 0-90 deg. If you have a different size bar spacing let me know it simple to change for your size.

Todd
 
Guys, you made my day with this table!
I have to miter some aluminum profiles, 5×20 mm, to fit the plastic with the square hole I illustrated in this post: http://www.hobby-machinist.com/showthread.php?t=22609
This morning I spent a lot of time to get the first corner using an HSS slitting saw.
The result was acceptable, but the setup was really time consuming:

miter.jpg

Don't forget I've only the cheapest Chinese drill press… but the homemade XY table and the screw powered feed I added helped a bit.
Tomorrow I'll arrange this tilt table (luckily today I got a nice scrap of iron plate from the harbor stevedores) and I'll make my own version, to be used with a 6 mm end mill with a feed of 0.01 mm or so.
Of course my table will not be so fancy as your tables!

miter.jpg
 
Harvey Melvin Richards said:
I forgot that I have some Mitee-Bites, so I'll have to add some holes to mine. I like the T-slot idea, that has a lot of potential.
Click to expand...

Another option might be to use a table that already has T slots cut in it - LMS has a 9.5 x 4.25 cast iron table with three 12mm (7/16) T slots running the length of it for less that $30. Since I don't have any suitable scrap to use for this project, I'm thinking about using one a a starting point.

Just go to their website and search for table and you can find it easily.
 
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