Show Us Your Welding Projects!

Here is a small "A" frame hoist setup that I fabricated for a client about a year ago. He wanted something that would break down and hang on the wall in his garage yet be fairly quick and simple to assemble and use.

Started with some square tube with some larger tubing to slide on from either side.
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Welded some nuts onto the tube for a captured nut system to tighten down on the inner tubing.
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Welded some 1.5"x .095" tube for the vertical legs.
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Welded a cable hoist to the horizontal part.
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Can't seem to find the pictures of it completed and painted but will keep looking.

Mike.
 
Here is a rear bumper that I fabricated for my Jeep a couple of years ago. I fabricated it out of .250" and .187" P&O plate made from cardboard templates and welded together. I machined a spindle setup for the swing away tire carrier. A drop pin from McMaster Carr to catch the carrier as it swings open and toggle clamp also from McMaster Carr to draw it tight for a solid, rattle free latch mechanism.

Completed ready to send to powder coater.
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After powder coating.
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Complete with lighting installed and spare tire mounted.
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Here is a front winch bumper that I built for my Jeep just this past year. I had originally purchased a used WARN Rockcrawler bumper with a WARN Powerplant winch that I found locally to get me by until I had time to fabricate my own once I decided on a style I wanted.

It drove me nuts to have a purchased bumper on my Jeep and I really wasn't fond of having the winch sit well above the bumper blocking airflow to my radiator. I decided to remedy that by selling the winch and bumper and purchasing a new WARN 9.5XP to that I would sink down between the frame rails and keep low and under my radiator/grille area.

This is the design I came up with. I used 1/4" for the base plate/winch mount. This ties directly into the front frame horns and the recover points will tie directly in line with the frame horns and be welded to a mounting plate held onto the Jeep by four 5/8" grade 8 bolts per side. She isn't going anywhere.
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I cut a piece of 3/16" P&O for the front which is angled slightly downward (you know for aerodynamics:lmao:) which will have the roller fairlead attached to it as well as welding the recovery points. I slid this piece over the recovery points and welded the perimeter so that IF I ever need to pull on those recovery points the force is actually going through the front plate and directly to the frame horn so as to not bend or flex the front plate.
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Mocked up with roller fairlead, recovery points and winch.
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Recover points and mounting plates without the front plate.
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One of my welds on an attaching plate that I welded to the frame horn.
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Now starting to cut and tack the "ears" of the bumper into place.
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One thing to keeping a nice tidy weld is to keep a slight undersize fitment when joining the pieces of steel plating. By keeping the inside corners of both pieces mating this allows a small void in the "V" of the two plastes for weld bead to be layed in. This way when metal finishing you don't remove any weld or strength you merely blend the weld into the parent material. Makes for less work with the grinder as well. I generally DO NOT grind my welds as I am not a fan of that, however, in this application I thought a smooth blended corner would look better seeing as how it will be powder coated.
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Metal finished and ready for final fit test of components and to determine height of stinger bar.
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Now I bent up a 2" diameter short stinger tube and welded it on. I am not a fan of those really tall and pointy style of stingers. I just wanted something to tie the looks together more so than an actual stinger for function.
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Back from powder coater.
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Installed and ready for the trails.
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Mike, excellent fabrication skills! Can you provide info on your tubing notcher, pros/cons. It looks like a good one!

David
 
Mike, excellent fabrication skills! Can you provide info on your tubing notcher, pros/cons. It looks like a good one!

David

David, thanks for the compliment. The tube notcher is a JMR brand model TN1000 and I am very happy with it. I have had it about five years now and use it frequently. The graduations on the base for degrees are even fairly accurate. The only tubes that I have not been able to successfully notch completely on it are ones that the bend or arc are fairly close to the clamping portion of the notcher. There is one called the "Beast" tube notcher that is completely adjustable meaning that you can clamp onto an arc or bend by simply moving some pins and locating tabs around. It is nice but quite expensive and after purchasing my TN1000 and being completely happy with it, quite frankly I can't see purchasing the other one. If you are purchasing your first one and will be notching on arcs then take a serious look at the "Beast" notcher by JD Squared. Otherwise for straight forward notching the JMR TN1000 gets my vote.

Hope that helps.

Mike.
 
Thanks for info Mike. I will do some research on your notcher. Most of my notching has been improvised on the BP milling machine and has worked out ok so far, but a good notcher would be nice. Hard to get large work in the mill!

Thanks again

David
 
Here is a front winch bumper that I built for my Jeep just this past year.

OK mike hears the deal, you really need to adopt me, not to long term, just a year or two until you teach me how to weld like that, you do absolutely wonderful work, nice and neat and great attention to detail....!:))
 
Thanks Don. I really appreciate that, however, I don't think I could afford another dependent. My son is expensive enough.:donttell: All I can hope for is that somewhere down the road he has paid even the slightest bit of attention and listened to me. Hopefully he will be able to make a good living and will remember me when he strikes it rich in his career.

Mike.
 
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