Shop ceiling - Victim of my own cheapness

[Reddinr]

RJ - I would need the joints near-perfect. I could deal with some texture but the joints have to be invisible or it would bug me. Whoever did my garage at the house did an awful job. It is on my list to fix that someday too.

 

[AGCB97]

I would probably look into blowing insulation on top of your lower ceiling. Since you already have LED lights and there is no fire danger from those and the upper level is well ventilated the only problem may be getting at the top of that lower ceiling depending on what type of flooring is on the upper floor or what access there is from below.

If that's a no-go then the best way is to rip out the entire ceiling including built-in lights and put faced insulation and drywall. I would revamp the LED tubes to be like the 'integrated' ones and hang them from or on the drywall.

The second way is a lot more work and expense.

A lot depends on who does the work and what kind of building codes need to be maintained.

A church I used to attend put on a small addition and did the drop ceiling thing for ease and convenience. Every winter, because of such a poor vaper barrier, the moisture would go through the ceiling, freeze on the roof boards above and then the first warm spell would melt the ice and stain the ceiling tiles. They thought the roof was leaking so the entire roof was replaced once and that section of the building was reroofed again a couple years later to no avail. Unless they ripped out that drop ceiling and put in a proper vapor barrier I suspect it is still happening.

Aaron

 

[Larry$]

You're in a pretty humid neighborhood. And it can get relatively cold. A formula for condensation. If it was my choice I'd bite the bullet, drywall and insulate with vapor barrier. Less than perfect seams? Not likely to show a lot if the lighting doesn't graze the surface. Just don't look up! I hate mudding enough that I would consider hiring it done. There might be moonlighters around that are relatively cheap.
I'm in an area that makes good insulation very desirable. It's 4:30 pm and -7F headed for a low tonight of -19F. Colder than normal.

 

[FOMOGO]

Retro fitting is always a pain at best. I hear you on sheet rocking, but I would bite the bullet, and do it right once. I think in the end you will be happier. Especially when you look at future heating bills, and your comfort level in the "Golden Years". Mike

 

[7milesup]

Drywall has an insulating R-value of 0.5. If you are trying to stop heat transfer and thinking about drywall to do that, you are wasting your time (and money). Sure, it will stop the wind from blowing through, but that is about it.
If you are trying to stop heat transfer within the building, you essentially need to look at it as an envelope, but what you are trying to do is build an envelope in an envelope.
My suggestion would be spray foam. Pull out some of the panels in the ceiling to have the contractor spray the foam up in there, or better yet, spray the foam in the upper area. Cover everything because that foam will get everywhere. If you decide to do this, use closed cell foam because it will also be a vapor barrier.
The rest of the suggestions, as well intended as they are, will not work.

 

[Larry$]

I don't think anyone was suggesting that drywall was an insulation. It is a means of holding rockwool or fiberglass bats in place after they have been stapled up with their own or additional vapor barrier. It also provides a finished appearance.
You will need to explain to us why this won't work. Spray foam is great insulation but is a hell of a mess. If I understood correctly there is not a full attic floor to spray the foam against. Spraying foam behind the ceiling grid would be an interesting challenge.

 

[RJSakowski]

Drywall isn't a good insulator but it does stop drafts. Having lived in a 100 y.o. home, I can attest to the value in eliminating air leaks.

 

[Janderso]

Do you have spray foam contractors in Buckley WA?
7milesup is in spray foam country.
I doubt if we have anyone that does it in Northern CA, but I’m not sure.
I think 2” of closed cell in the ceiling, above the false ceiling may be the answer?
That stuff looks amazing.

 

[7milesup]

The OP has a grid ceiling system. Putting insulating batts in a grid ceiling system will be, shall we say, challenging. Sure, it can be done. Maybe even it would be fun. No, never mind, it would not be fun.
You could dump rock wool or vermiculite above the ceiling grid, assuming the panels can hold it. But then, you can forget about doing any maintenance above the panels (like running wires or anything else).
There was earlier mention of installing a vapor barrier above the suspended ceiling, but that would be a waste of time and effort too. Vapor barrier does just that, it slows the transmission of vapor.
The other option is to insulate the upper area (loft?) and heat the whole thing.
There is a common saying on this forum about buy once, cry once. Do it right.

 

[7milesup]

I think 2” of closed cell in the ceiling, above the false ceiling may be the answer?
That stuff looks amazing.

Yes. This.